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Originally Posted by turbolarry
Technically; high timing plus high boost levels equals a greater chance of serious damage. Keep watching what's going on with the timing while your subtracting fuel or adding boost. If your just starting to knock, it will get flat. If it get's worse, the ECU will pull the timing. That knock sensor and ECU are looking out for you too.
I think the second log looks OK with good advance after 4500 RPM's. What's your boost at readline?
When the boost controller goes on, just keep things balanced and make the ECU happy. 
If your happy with the power at .93 volts, but want to take out a little more, shoot for a straight .92 volts.
How come there's spot's with no reading? |
Hi Larry, I was with Clayton last night helping him tune.
The stock boost gauge is really hard to read. He was spiking 1.4bar (20.3lbs) then falling to 1.2bar (17.4lbs). Thats pretty much were it stayed. There were 1 or 2 runs were it looked like the boost came back up to 1.3bar (18.8lbs). With a MBC this boost 'problem' will be solved and he won't have the fluctuating boost like he has now.
We would love to have the car tuned at .92v but his logger only reads in odd numbers. So its either .91 or .93.
The reason for the blanks is the logger was throwing out rpm numbers that the AFC was not exactly set for. So what it looks like to me the way he has it written down is the AFC was running say +2 fuel from 4000rpm to 4500rpm, but the log showed 4200rpm.
One thing is for sure, with just and at back and AFC, his car pulls hard as sh!t!! I was very impressed.
Clayton, if you get your MBC today, let me know, we can go out again tonight and get that set.
