Newbie/General ForumBeginner/basic questions and general EVO discussion. Specific questions should be asked in a focused forum below. This area is for the newbies.
Alright, so I have a bunch of questions, hopefully this won't drive everybody crazy. I've wanted an Evo since they were first imported, my first car was a '84 Cordia Turbo and nothing I've driven since, '87 firebird, '90 RX-7, a few others, has compared to that. The Evo just totally does. I love, love, love everything about this car. If my girlfriend knew how much I loved it, she would be even more jealous.
First of all, I bought it from Cruzin Auto Sales down in McKenna, WA. There were no maintenance records, and what seems like a dealership slap-on paint job. I took it to a local Mitsubishi dealer and ended up dropping $800+ for 60,000 mile service (has 74k on it). I know nothing about cars, or tuning, please feel free to use small words and speak slowly with me.
The dealership said something about the front (right) strut leaking? And they wanted $536 to fix it. How does a strut leak? Isn't that like a flexible spring-steel brace?
They also told me the speedometer can't be synced or zeroed or whatever you call it when you want to make sure it reads accurately?
They wanted $378 for a timing belt. $459/each for OEM Brembo rotors (they're warped). $120 for a shifter knob. But anyway, I think what they're telling me is that they don't have a MUT-II diagnostic tool for the Evolutions, or whatever they're called? That kinda worries me about the tune-up, etc that they did. Is it true that you can't tell if a timing belt is worn/needs to be replaced? The guy at the dealership told me he 'assumed' it was, because there was wear/non-sharp corners on the bolts holding the cover on. For all I know, that and the speedometer were just jobs that would not make them decent profit and they reefed on the bolts with a too-big socket.
So am I getting ripped off? Is that about right, as far as prices? It doesn't make sense to me that Mitsubishi wouldn't have put some kind of wear mark on the belt, if it was hard to tell, for something that could cause that much damage if it failed? I mean, they put them on toothbrushes.
Anybody know a good Evo shop North of Seattle? Even into Victoria B.C. Canada would be better than south of Seattle for me. I'm way, way north. This car is something I plan to drive as a daily driver for the next 5-10 years. I don't want it all tricked out or anything. I just want fair and honest maintenance that won't cost me anymore than it has to and won't blow up on me and put me out 15k.
Also, where/how do you learn to performance drive? I mean, I've had a few reckless driving warnings and things, so the normal stuff, I can do. And I'm not interested in racing (though I don't mind making Boxters and 'vettes feel stupid coming off a stoplight) street or legal. What I'd like to do is find a private road, runway, or non-oval track and just play a bit. How did you all learn to control a car at high speeds, or while sliding around a corner, or how to shift properly and at what times, to maximize acceleration out of a turn, to cut the right line through a corner, etc? Honestly, this is a testosterone thing for me. I want to be able to drive like James Bond and Jason Bourne, and enjoy the potential of the car, without losing my license over it or destroying my insurance rates. I think if I can find a fun, safe way of burning the evil out of my soul, during the weekend or something, then I won't have trouble keeping it under the speed limit and driving like a little girl during the week.
Last couple/few questions. Anybody know where to find a GReddy turbo timer manual? One came with the car, and it has pretty buttons on it, but I have no clue what they do.
There's a weird grating noise when I let off the accelerator from 40-30mph going up or down a hill. A mechanic from a different dealership (where I tried to save the RX-7 from the graveyard) told me he thinks it is just the spot-welds on the heat shield? But he seemed fixated on some rattle that I didn't hear, wasn't talking about, and didn't care about. Does this seem likely?
Then, I also got 235/40ZR18 Tires and TSW 18 Alloy Rims, when I bought it. Which, seem to be rubbing sometimes, when I turn the wheel. Though according to my Garmon GPS the speedometer is right on. Is there an easy way to fix this, so the whole parking lot at the grocery store stops wincing at me in my dream car, in pity, without buying 4 new tires, rims and doing the impossible by re-syncing the speedometer?
What can I ask people to see if they know what they're doing? If they know performance cars or Evolutions specifically? How do I tell if someone is a performance/tuner shop, that I should trust to work on my car, and not just an American muscle car (or worse minivan mechanic with a fancy shop and 'fast' sounding shop name) who's willing to take any work he can get in this economy?
Finally, if this board is still active, feel free to yell at me about my bombardment of newbie questions. Or optionally just say hi.
I think you got ripped off by someone! You said you had a 60k service done correct? if so then you wouldn't need a timing belt service at all because that is what a 60k is.....As for rotors yeah they cost a lot go aftermarket or just get yours cut. the OEM brembo core can be cut so many time because of there size. If the place you are taking your car doesn't have the right tools or equipment to service your vehicle find someone else. What do they need to use the MUT-II for on your car? The diagnostic tool would be to make sure all your sensors are working and its reading right, not throwing codes or check engine lights....this can all be acheived by code readers, advanced auto parts will read codes for free. As for your weird noise between 30-40 it could typical AWD noise or it could be a damaged t-case its hard to determine by you just telling us. The t-belt doesn;t have a wear indicator because sometimes they could last forever or sometimes they could last around the normal 60k. its a belt, it frays and stretchs, this will be dependant on weather driving and abuse....
your mod path is simple, Boost gauge, turboback exhaust, intake, boost controller, BOV, fuel pump, FMIC, Ic pipes and a reflash. Then you can do some suspension to make the car stick. you will notice major gains from the above listed mods, then you can also go a little futhur and make a lot more power. Add some cams and custom tune and you could produce around 320whp on a mustang dyno...All on the stock turbo.
Thanks, yeah, they did the 60k, didn't put on a timing belt, because I didn't want to drop the $378 right now, if I didn't have to. New front rotors and front and rear pads is costing me $620 next week already and that is too much as it is. The front rotors on the car now are warped (according to three different mechanics and the way it feels when you slam on the brakes), is cutting them going to fix that?
Still not sure about that front right strut?
How do I know what the right tools or equipment are that the garage needs?
Suggestions on a shop North of Seattle?
I would really like to hear how people learned to performance drive.
Need a GReddy Turbo Timer Manual (PDF or other scan would be fine.)
That problem with tire rub is really annoying and would be nice to fix.
I would do the timing belt asap cause thats one of those things you don't really want to test on how long will it last.
The strut has oil in it that creates resistance and thats what absorbs the shock and what has happened is the seals are going and you need to replace it. You can find used stock replacements on ebay or one of the forums if you don't want to blow your money at the dealership.
As for shops just ask if they have worked on any dsm's or evo's and ask to talk to the techs if they aren't busy. You will know a shady shop when you see one.
As for learning how to performance drive most learn on the street. It just happens we all have atleast one story of a close call or oh shit monents. To do it legally you can look up local scca tracks and get a licence and race on a closed track were those pesky pidestrians and cars and poles won't reach out and grab ya. Be smart and safe, while still having fun, you only live once.
As for the tire rubbing is it specifically when you turn left or is it both left and right. If your front right shock is going it may compress enough for the tire to rub. Turn the steering wheel all the way both directions and look for any rubbing and push down on each shock to see if under compression it rubs.
Otherwise you have what I would call a work in progress. Get the timing belt changed or you'll be buying a new motor soon. Keep up with maintance and all fluids and don't beat her up and she should last. Good luck hope this helps.
So what did they do for your 60k service? a $800 oil change? $378 for a t-belt is kinda up there. You can get aftermarket kevlar ones for less then half that. if its $378 to install yeas i can see that and really thats not bad. With a T-belt you will need a t-belt tensioner, balencer belt, accessory belt. you can also add idler pulliesand a water pump depending on your budget.
Struts can leak over time, but your main concern should be t-belt and brakes. Go on gruppe-s.com and check out there brake specials you will end up spending less on better pads and rotors. I dont know how much install will be since i do my own...
What do you mean by performance driving? are you going to be launching your car and redlining every gear all the time or just spirited driving?
Also I think your shock is causing some of the rubbing, like stated above. Last resort get stock size wheels and stock sized tires.
Good link for the turbo timer but it also depends on which model it is, the older ones work differently.....
I would do the timing belt asap cause thats one of those things you don't really want to test on how long will it last.
The strut has oil in it that creates resistance and thats what absorbs the shock and what has happened is the seals are going and you need to replace it. You can find used stock replacements on ebay or one of the forums if you don't want to blow your money at the dealership.
As for shops just ask if they have worked on any dsm's or evo's and ask to talk to the techs if they aren't busy. You will know a shady shop when you see one.
As for learning how to performance drive most learn on the street. It just happens we all have at least one story of a close call or oh shit monents. To do it legally you can look up local scca tracks and get a licence and race on a closed track were those pesky pidestrians and cars and poles won't reach out and grab ya. Be smart and safe, while still having fun, you only live once.
As for the tire rubbing is it specifically when you turn left or is it both left and right. If your front right shock is going it may compress enough for the tire to rub. Turn the steering wheel all the way both directions and look for any rubbing and push down on each shock to see if under compression it rubs.
Otherwise you have what I would call a work in progress. Get the timing belt changed or you'll be buying a new motor soon. Keep up with maintance and all fluids and don't beat her up and she should last. Good luck hope this helps.
So what did they do for your 60k service? a $800 oil change?
Yeah, they did spark plugs, wires, tune-up, all fluids, and tire rotation. Plus a big inspection. The actual 60k service was ~$600 or so, I threw floor mats and an owner's manual on there, plus the $98 inspection. I probably over spent, but I was thinking the dealership would be the 'safest' place to see what I got and any priority fixes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SicLanEvo
$378 for a t-belt is kinda up there. You can get aftermarket kevlar ones for less then half that. if its $378 to install yeas i can see that and really thats not bad. With a T-belt you will need a t-belt tensioner, balencer belt, accessory belt. you can also add idler pulliesand a water pump depending on your budget.
Seemed expensive to me, too. Everybody I know who works on cars or is a mechanic is telling me the same thing about the belt, so I guess I have to add that to the budget. Thanks for the advice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SicLanEvo
Struts can leak over time, but your main concern should be t-belt and brakes. Go on gruppe-s.com and check out there brake specials you will end up spending less on better pads and rotors. I dont know how much install will be since i do my own...
Cool, most shops around here are $80-$180 per/hr. for labor. My friend might be willing to do it for me too, I just have to sweeten the deal some more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SicLanEvo
What do you mean by performance driving? are you going to be launching your car and redlining every gear all the time or just spirited driving?
Eh, I've always been more interested in handling-based driving, than speed-based driving. It's a lot more fun (to me) to take a corner at the edge of handling, than to go 111mph in a straight line. But even double-clutching, left-foot braking, J-turns (or bootlegger reverse), powerslides, e-brake turns, etc. Not that I would necessarily do that in this car. But that's what I'm talking about when I say performance driving, what we used to call 'putting the car through its paces'. I'm assuming that even most drag racers, have learned to better control the car in case of the unexpected.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SicLanEvo
Also I think your shock is causing some of the rubbing, like stated above. Last resort get stock size wheels and stock sized tires.
Huh. Yeah, then the speedo would be off, wouldn't it? I'll look into the source of the rub, next time I go out. Internet here is being twitchy so I've been fighting that for the last day and a half.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SicLanEvo
Good link for the turbo timer but it also depends on which model it is, the older ones work differently.....
I'll keep that in mind, it looks similar at least, for now. Thank you both for your help, a lot.
Glad I could help. As for your performance driving expectations, they seem to be parking lot oriented in just seeing how the car reacts to a loss of traction, which is the best way to learn so if you are really out of control you'll know what to do and most importantly what not to do. Try too find a warehouse in your area with a BIG parking lot and hope the cops don't see you.
Glad I could help. As for your performance driving expectations, they seem to be parking lot oriented in just seeing how the car reacts to a loss of traction, which is the best way to learn so if you are really out of control you'll know what to do and most importantly what not to do. Try too find a warehouse in your area with a BIG parking lot and hope the cops don't see you.
Honestly, I'm more interested in doing this kind of thing: Security Driving Schools: Survival, VIP, Stunt, Anti-Terrorism, Convoy Security, Pursuit, etc. I'd love to work in that field some day. There's just not a school that's both close enough and cheap enough. I'm thinking there's probably a privately owned airstrip or parking lot I could get permission to use to play a bit, since I live in an almost rural area. Thanks again.
hmm, no offense or anything but wanting to test out your car's performance on any track after doing all that up to date maintenance is just asking for more maintenance. Of course the car is made for that if you go that path but it'll just cost you more out of your pocket in the long run.
hmm, no offense or anything but wanting to test out your car's performance on any track after doing all that up to date maintenance is just asking for more maintenance. Of course the car is made for that if you go that path but it'll just cost you more out of your pocket in the long run.
I figure there must be some perfect balance point between pushing the car and putting wear on parts. It will just take a lot of practice to find it.
The evo stock can handle quite a bit granted it does have its limitations, every car does, even fully built track cars will slide if pushed to hard and fast into a corner. If you don't want to go all out with suspension mods try strut tower bars and poly bushings, motor mounts, and shifter bushings. These will help you feel what the car is doing, at the expense of comfort.
I like that driving school idea of yours but like you said there hard to find out of heavy populated areas. I would persue the airstrip idea or another parking lot of some kind. I'm not sure if the airstrip will work though because some how the faa or some other government agency will have 50 laws against you being on the property, i'm not saying a small one won't let you do it but just things to think about. Who knows you might try using your evo as a missile
For the performance driving that your talking about. I dont have an evo but ive always been big into take corners at high speeds, not getting sideways at all since my accord is fwd. But you could also start autocross or you can do what i do and just find some nice back roads and feel the car around the corners. Im not sure what evos come with stock for suspension and handling performance. But body roll plays a big factor in taking corners fast, so front and rear sway bars or upgraded sizes/bushings front and rear strut bars do make a difference depending on where you buy them. Ebays usually flex and dont make any difference, plus why would you go cheap on an evo? but all you can really do is teach your self and find roads that cops rarely go to. Being lower will help with center of gravity to. Another thing you have to worry about is the type of road your on, the angle of the corner, if its banked at all, and what will be around the corner is something to worry about, such as a car backing out of its driveway or a back road so far back you got deers running out. are you in the seattle area? or up towards whidbey island?
do not do the front sway bar.....get a good rear bar so the rear will come around a little easier. Get a decent set of coilovers i suggest BC coilovers since they make the dampeners for the $2000 and under crowd. Tires you will want to run wider. you can run 255's on the stock wheels. Body roll is not a major issue on the evo it was made for rallys. Take it and push it and see how it responds. Mine has done perfect in just about every situation.
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) street or legal. What I'd like to do is find a private road, runway, or non-oval track and just play a bit. How did you all learn to control a car at high speeds, or while sliding around a corner, or how to shift properly and at what times, to maximize acceleration out of a turn, to cut the right line through a corner, etc? Honestly, this is a testosterone thing for me. I want to be able to drive like James Bond and Jason Bourne, and enjoy the potential of the car, without losing my license over it or destroying my insurance rates. I think if I can find a fun, safe way of burning the evil out of my soul, during the weekend or something, then I won't have trouble keeping it under the speed limit and driving like a little girl during the week. 
or upgraded sizes/bushings front and rear strut bars do make a difference depending on where you buy them. Ebays usually flex and dont make any difference, plus why would you go cheap on an evo? but all you can really do is teach your self and find roads that cops rarely go to. Being lower will help with center of gravity to. Another thing you have to worry about is the type of road your on, the angle of the corner, if its banked at all, and what will be around the corner is something to worry about, such as a car backing out of its driveway or a back road so far back you got deers running out. are you in the seattle area? or up towards whidbey island?
