Newbie/General ForumBeginner/basic questions and general EVO discussion. Specific questions should be asked in a focused forum below. This area is for the newbies.
I'm new to this forum and am looking forward to of surfing the site and learning about the many different aspects of the evo
Well here's my query. First of all, am interested in buying an evo IX In Dubai, i went to the showroom and they had quite a few available. However, no warranty....the guy simply said that people buy the car boost it up mods etc... the engine goes.. they put it back stock and claim warranty.
"The car is bulletproof stock so we dont have the warranty policy".
-Ok fair enough i still want one i asked him to show me why i should buy an evo rather than the new camaro comming in november. So i choose a blue one and they guy takes me for a test drive in what is potentially my next car. He drifts around a rounabout 'i kid you not'! floors it down a straight... and i turn white . The car had 33kms on it and that was the last blue one available. Do i still go for it? i mean ive heard of hard break in but rape from the get go?
I'm contemplating on the red one now...
How many clicks should it have from new?
Whats the break in period ?
Break-in is 500-600 miles of no higher than 5000rpms but with regular boosting up to 5000rpms. That's just for the engine, though. The brakes, clutch, tranny, and tires also have to be broken in by not shifting hard/fast, not braking hard, and not cornering hard. It's surprising he gave you that spiehl about no warranty when the IX has a really good/long warranty if you don't mod it, yet he then went and thrashed it.
It doesn't mean it's a problem, though, because even though he was not following the prescribed break-in procedure, there are those who believe the proper break-in is to thrash the car right off the lot. Buschur does that with all the Evos he gets. They put them right on the dyno and go WOT to 7000rpm when they're brand new, then take them to the drag strip...
Im going to give it the long smooth & easy break in
What would you expect to have on the odometer for a new evo? Does the manufacturer bring it for a test run for a couple km's before declaring it ready to go?
Is there a name for the ecu flash i want for just the stock components or shall i get the boost controller and exhaust package first?
To make it simple i want a fast everyday car that wont get dammaged and hauls some serious azz
we get 98oct fuel here so best make most of it.
Hahah I thought that said "chicks" as if they're standard from the factory
It's funny that there's so many theories on break in. Some say take it easy (oldschool method), some say thrash it. However, if you DO decide to drive it hard for the break in, it doesn't mean abuse, it means just solid pulls to redline, THATS IT. As Warr said, no hard shifting, no hard braking, no hard cornering... The rest of the car needs to settle in, that will take at least 600 miles (per the manual). Some will go as far as 1500 miles for break in as I did. I agree with the theories that modern engines have much tighter tolerances, but "the perfect break-in method" is still a mystery.
Here's some hard rules that you'll want to follow...
Always let it warm up thoroughly before you begin driving hard (if it's cold this may take 20 minutes). This goes for break-in and the full life of the car. Don't rape it when it's cold, ever. The turbo will die a quick and painful death. Also, let it run for a minute if you've just stopped from a hard drive to allow the turbo to cool naturally during idle.
Im going to give it the long smooth & easy break in
What would you expect to have on the odometer for a new evo? Does the manufacturer bring it for a test run for a couple km's before declaring it ready to go?
Is there a name for the ecu flash i want for just the stock components or shall i get the boost controller and exhaust package first?
To make it simple i want a fast everyday car that wont get dammaged and hauls some serious azz
we get 98oct fuel here so best make most of it.
The slow break in is a safe bet. The manufacturer (I believe) does run the engines to ensure they're running, and of course they have to be driven off the truck. The boost controller and exhaust help the flash work much better, it really does make a great package deal. I'm running a Hallman MBC, Invidia catless turboback and a custom tune and it rocks.
You lucky f*cker, I wish we had 98oct at the pump.
We can get our hands on racing fuel for 133$ per 45 gallon barrel
and the fuel is about roughly 42 cents a gallon...
-Ok so if i do a flash for 98 oct can i use racing fuel safely for a weekend night run or do i have to do do anyother mods?
I could be going wrong about the whole thing its interesting to know though...
I don't think your 98 is the same as our 98, because of the whole RON/MON designator. I believe your 98 is equivalent to our 93oct, which is RON+MON/2, while your 98 is just RON. I wouldn't treat your 98 as race gas...
On a IX, the best basic mods are a turboback exhaust, mbc, and flash. You can get all 3 with a boost gauge in a package from Buschur Racing - it even has my name on it, hah! I don't know how that works for you with shipping across the ocean, though. Once you have these mods tuned for your 98, then when racing, you can add higher octane race gas and turn up the boost 2-3psi for some extra power.
Agreed. If the car is tuned for street use, then pump gas (your local 98oct) is what it should be tuned for. If you go to the track I'd reccomend at least half a tank of race gas mixed with your pump gas some added safety against detonation. It doesn't have to be at night, (I recently attended a track day in 95°F heat and had no problems). Tune it for a hot day which is when detonation would most likely occur, and you should have plenty of safe margin for daily use and abuse. Sustained hard use at a track however, that's different and much more strenuous and you'll need the higher octane race gas for safety.
Ok cool well the fuel at the pump is 98 oct so it will be tuned to that.
The guys over here usually go to the performance shop and buy the racing fuel in barrels, keep it in their garage and pump it in whenever they feel the need for a rip around town. I guess i could do the same... like u said increase the boost for the extra power.
There are alot of parts out here available but i need the ones which work best for the IX and sometimes i dont trust these guys with their sell sell attitude..
Theres a titanium exhaust available here 4.5 kg im not sure the make but ill post it for opinions when i know.
Out of curiousity whats the octane level @ the pumps in North/S America.
We have 95 or 98 option at the pumps....
Most of North America has 93 AKI octane (97 RON Octane) with some poor bastards on the west coast limited to 91 AKI octane (95 RON) and some lucky bastards like me have 94 AKI octane (98 RON) available.
Most people have no clue of the differenc between AKI octane specification in North America and RON octane used in the majority of the world. AKI is the MON (Motor Octane Number) plus the RON (Research Octane Number) devided by two.
Keith
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EVO 11.53 @ 123.37, Black WRX Wagon 13.62 @ 99.24
About the Warrenty issue, I guess Dubi doesn't have the consumer protection laws we do in the US? They don't work very well here, but we do have recourse if a car company tries to screw us out of the warrenty.
The problem I have with your situation is that the entire projected cost of warrenty repairs is factored into the cost of a new vehicle. If they are selling it with zero warrenty coverage then they should be reducing the cost of the vehicle significantly over the cost of the same vehicle with a warrenty.
Keith
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EVO 11.53 @ 123.37, Black WRX Wagon 13.62 @ 99.24
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rape from get go
. The car had 33kms on it and that was the last blue one available. Do i still go for it? i mean ive heard of hard break in but rape from the get go?
as if they're standard from the factory 
