Newbie/General ForumBeginner/basic questions and general EVO discussion. Specific questions should be asked in a focused forum below. This area is for the newbies.
Here is list of parts that I am considering purchasing for my Evo VIII. I would appreciate any feedback that you guys have to offer on these parts. This is the first stage of the project. I am looking to make 400-500whp when I am all said and done.
- Might as well just do a full AMS 3" or BR 3" instead of doing it piecemeal with different brands. AMS and BR will give you top performance, and BR has a HFC option on theirs (not sure about AMS)
- Pay less for the regular Ebay SS O2. It's the same as the Megan without the brand name cost
- Stay far, far away from the Weapon R intake manifold. I'm very curious how this even got on your list. It is NOT recommended in the least. Also, you aren't anywhere near needing to upgrade your intake mani. After you reach 500whp, if you ever do, then maybe think about porting the stock intake mani.
- Invidia has an exhaust manifold for the Evo? I've never seen anyone mention use it or even mention it. I recommend just porting and coating your stock manifold, and then when you do your big turbo upgrade for 400-500whp, it will come with its own manifold in the kit
- K&N Typhoon is the absolute worst intake on the Evo. Again, I wonder how this got on the list. IT is widely known as a no-no in the Evo community. Also, you list a titanium "suction pipe." By that, aren't you referring to the MAF pipe going from the MAF/filter and the turbo? If so, the K&N comes with one, so not sure why you'd duplicate. Anyway, get the titanium pipe if you must, but then just mate it with an $80 Buschur cone filter. BR also sells its own MAF pipe if you want to save money.
- The SAFC is not a fuel mod - it's a tuning device. Yes, it's only ability is to adjust fuel, but it adjusts fuel for the sake of tuning. I highly recommend NOT wasting money on a NEO. It's basically a light show that does some crude tuning. You should get custom flashed, and since you seem to love AMS, then have them do it - they are experts.
- No need for the rail, regulator, or injectors. Whenever you choose your big turbo, then choose your fuel system accordingly. 780s likely won't be big enough for a turbo pushing 500whp, and none of these 3 mods do you any good before the turbo upgrade.
- Don't need the turbo timer
Thanks for the info. Weapon R was a cheap alternative. Trying to work on a budget with this initial setup. You are right, if you are going to do something do it right.
Electronics/Gauges
Defi BF Boost
Defi BF Fuel Pressure
Defi BF Oil Pressure
Defi Control Unit
AEM Boost Controller
Tuning
EcuFlash
I cant seem to find an AMS o2 housing, and the AMS exhaust mani is very expensive. Do you guys see any problems mating the exhaust parts that I have listed. Feedback?? Ballpark WHP???
Holy crap, that manifold is nearly $700!!! LIke I said, NO ONE uses that part. You only n eed to spend around $200 to have your stock manifold ported and coated to make good power with no fear of cracking. Plus, like I said before, when you do your big turbo upgrade to get 400-500whp, it's going to COME with its own manifold, so this one would no longer be useful.
AMS doesn't have their own o2. What I said was to get the regular Ebay SS O2. That's what everyone is using. The Megan is the same part made in the same Chinese factory but with a slightly higher price. Both work great.
No reason to get the Injen unless you just absolutely must have the JDM brand name. Go with an AMS or Buschur FMIC to get the most power for your money. You originally had the AMS FMIC and AMS LICP listed, which were perfect, but then you changed it to an Injen FMIC and _UICP_ with no LICP listed. Why? I didn't say those mods were bad - you had those right the first time. The LICP is a much better mod than the UICP.
Everything else looks good. Please don't ask for ballpark whp, because bench dyno'ing is worse than bench racing. There are at least 10 factors I can list off the top of my head that will have an impact on dyno numbers. Don't worry about dyno numbers - worry about gains over stock. In other words, you could start at 205whp on the Buschur Mustang dyno and end up at 310, which is a 105whp gain, but you would probably think 310 sucks. It doesn't - it's just that dynos read differently.
Ok final revisions. I have about $5k to spend on this stage. I know I have a couple parts listed that I dont need right away, but it makes sense to me to go ahead and get them since they fit into this budget. I will be dropping another $5k in about 2 months. This car will not be daily driven, other than to take out of the garage and kick the crap out of Mustangs that are worshipped by people around here.
Exhaust
AMS 3" catback
AMS 3" downpipe
AMS Resonated Test Pipe (Wher I live there are no emission tests and anything will pass inspection if you know the right people and you bring a case of beer.)
Megan O2 Housing ($90 on ebay)
I am going for a deep tone not a weed eater with nitrous. Does this seem like a good setup for that type of sound? Anyone know where I can hear sound clips of it?
Intake
AMS FMIC
Injen lower/upper piping and conic filter
Exedy Organic Clutch (Just for now, probably Twin HD when I upgrade the turbo)
Gruppe S Flywheel
Electronics/Gauges
Defi BF Boost
Defi BF Oil Temp
Defi BF Oil Pressure
Defi Control Unit
AEM Boost Controller
Tuning
EcuFlash
I really appreciate all of the help guys. I am sure there will be many more questions to follow, and I will keep you all updated on the progress. Oh and sorry for the WHP question. I have never owned a 4G63 so I was just wondering approximate gains with this setup, or what someone's numbers are/were that had a similar setup. The closest AWD dyno, or any dyno for that matter is like 3 hours from me.
- All Evos have deep tones - that's just how it is. The AMS is very deep.
- I still don't see any reason to waste money on the Injen stuff, but that's up to you.
- Be sure to get the Forge RS BOV - they have multiple ones on the market, so specify the RS
- Do the Exedy Twin now. The organics are not very good, and believe me, you DON'T want to do the clutch twice. It's a long, tough, expensive job. Also, it comes with its own lightweight flywheel - you don't have to purchase one separately.
The rest is good as long as you know how to configure that AEM EBC. I prefer simple $80 MBCs.
if you are on a budget why spend 800 bucks on defi gauges when you could get the same gauges for like 300 from prosport? they arent as nice as the defis but they are still accurate and the amber gauges match our stock ones really well.
Well, when someone says their budget is $5k now and another $5k later, that's not the same thing as saying, "I'm on a budget." Haha. He appears to have enough mod money to spend more than I have on my car in 2.5 years combined unless you include all those damn tires.
When I say I am on a budget, I mean for this stage. There are certain things that I want to accomplish with this first batch of mods. I want everything to function together for max gains. I am also trying to plan for my next stage. I dont want a situation where I spend all 5k on a bigger turbo and fuel system upgrades, then not have enough for critical parts I need to make everything function together. This going to be an ongoing project (as they all turn out to be). I really want the defis, I think they have a very clean look . As far as the clutch goes, you dont think the organic would be ok to start with for just minimal street use? I cant afford the twin just yet and I dont mind installing later. I have installed many clutches in DSMs so it wouldn't cost many any money, just a pain in the @** I am also planning a BR stroker kit at some point as well as a turbo upgrade, then I know I would need the twin. I know I will be going to the track at that point.
You can get the organic if you want, but doing a clutch in a DSM is 1-2 hour job. In an Evo, it's more like an 8-10hr job - it's a major pain in the ass. Also, how is it that you can't afford the twin? It's about $1300-1400, which includes the flywheel, and you only have to get it once. Buying two clutches definitely costs more monetarily, and the extra time cost + hassle equate to additional opportunity cost - not sure if you keep track of costs like that.
I realize that you may have X amount of money now and Y amount later, but you started out with a list that was much more expensive than what we have now, so I'm confused as to why the twin can't be purchased now. It would also free up a LOT more cash for round 2 of your mods, because the clutch + stroker + turbo kit is going to be way more than the 5k you have budgeted for round 2. Up to you...
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. I have never owned a 4G63 so I was just wondering approximate gains with this setup, or what someone's numbers are/were that had a similar setup. The closest AWD dyno, or any dyno for that matter is like 3 hours from me.
. As far as the clutch goes, you dont think the organic would be ok to start with for just minimal street use? I cant afford the twin just yet and I dont mind installing later. I have installed many clutches in DSMs so it wouldn't cost many any money, just a pain in the @** I am also planning a BR stroker kit at some point as well as a turbo upgrade, then I know I would need the twin. I know I will be going to the track at that point. 
