Newbie/General ForumBeginner/basic questions and general EVO discussion. Specific questions should be asked in a focused forum below. This area is for the newbies.
What I am wondering is how to tension the timing belt idler wheel(the one that the hydraulic tensioner tensions) without the tool to do that. I have searched and search, the only thing I can come up with is to either use a breaker bar, or some sort of curled bar and apply pressure that way.
Well, that is fine, however it does not specify how tight to tighten it and as we all know it cannot be too lose, and cannot be too tight. So I am just wondering if anyone has some advice on doing this, or exactly how tight it needs to be.
I know that with a lot of belts you usually tighten them and then apply a certain amount of force and measuring the distance you can press it.
I could get the tool I suppose, but for one thing I cannot find the thing anywhere and if it is just as easy to do it without it I would rather not have to get it...
1st off why are you messing with the timing belt?
2nd once it is fully released thats it, it wont go anymore. to relive tention off it simply put the right pice of allthread in the tentioner hole. and screw like ur screwing it in.and to take it out just unscrew.
Tentioners CAN break, and it can cause you to jump timing resulting in bent valves and alot of broken stuff... I dont think we have hydrolic tentioners, we have spring ones on our cars.
the timing belt needs to be changed, that is why i am messing with it, its well over due.
the tensioner presses on an arm on the other end of the arm there is a pulley that pulley you can swing to tighten it prior to the tensioner putting tension on the arm; according to the manual you must have special tool MD998767 and swing this pulley to the point where pressing up against the timing belt requires 31 in.lbs of torque. Once that is done you release the pin in the tensioner, and pull out the threaded rod holding down the tensioner and it applies the perfect amount of pressure on the timing belt, but doesn't doesn't go out all the way...
But what I am saying is, without that special tool I have no way of turning the pulley to those specs, I have seen that people just pry the pulley until it is "about right"
I need to tighten this pulley because it had to be replaced...
I suppose I could measure the rod that I would use to pry the pulley and calculate how much force would be required to put 31 in.lbs on that pulley....but I was just wondering what people do in this situation without that torque-tensioning tool (not to be confused with the threaded rod, or the actual tensioner itself)
When you're changing the belt you shouldn't have to move or remove any pulleys. The tensioner rod will give you enough slack to pull the entire belt off.
Yes, I realize that now, but I was doing it step by step to the tutorial on EvoM I found...and now that I have done that I need to get it back...
I found a place online regarding the 4G63 in the DSMs saying that the tensioner should be between 3.8-4.5 mm (.15-.18 in.) when everything is said and done, so if that is also true for the Evo 4G63 then I would say that the timing belt is to the correct tension when that tensioner is 3.8-4.5 mm....
