BR CAI
BR MBC
Walbro 255
3" 02/DP/TP/CB
Megan headers
JDM MR BOV
Dynoflash
Parts I'm thinking of in the near future (budget is low, sub 250$ parts here) This is what I'm looking to be nickle and diming over the next few months....if you have other suggestions for inexpensive, but in the long run usable mods, please throw me a bone on this one
Tranny/motor mounts/engine damper
upgraded BOV (mine is not holding boost, leaks before WOT)
L/U ICP (BR most likely)
Thermostat
After I'm caught back up on my bills, my quit-smoking-money will be nestled away for more expensive stuff. Here is the wish list for this fall/winter.
Cams - can't decide between JUN 272 or 280's
upgraded valve springs, retainers
injectors
meth????? really not sure on this one...but a lot of people seem to recomend it.
turbo - probably 20G....might want to go a slight bit bigger, just for more top end
Next would be cams, but if you want $250 or less, then there's not much you can do besides an LICP and front motor mount. The UICP costs more...
What do you mean the JDM MR DV is leaking before WOT? It should not leak at all unless you are trying to accelerate at part throttle and partial boost, in which case that throws off the equilibrium of the BOV and makes it open partially and flutter. That is normal and is not leaking unless you mean something else.
- JUN cams? Whoa!! Those are extremely aggressive cams that require upgraded valvetrain and are best with an AEM EMS and big turbo. Those in no way fit your mildly-modded setup. You would be fine with a set of GSC S1, Comp, or HKS. GSC S1 is the best on the market right now for regularly-modded Evos
- Won't need to ugprade the valvetrain with the cams I listed
- No need for injectors on the stock turbo
- Meth is great, but get a good kit with a failsafe and get a nice custom tune from Justin
- 20G what? There are 7-8 different 20Gs. If you get the 20G-LT, the best one, you will want 680-720CC injectors probably.
Well I'm looking at upgrading injectors because I am planning on switching to E85 and the larger turbo. I may go bigger then the 20G-LT (which yes, this is the one i spoke of)
And I dont know whats going on with the BOV, but it flutters madly while on WOT. Not from partial like you're saying, but when i'm accelerating and its getting close to red line, it flutters.
You need MUCH bigger ones for just the E85, so you'd need even bigger for E85 + larger turbo, so definitely run that decision by a few people when you decide on a turbo.
If the DV is fluttering at WOT, then that's a definite problem somewhere.
Well I'm looking at upgrading injectors because I am planning on switching to E85 and the larger turbo. I may go bigger then the 20G-LT (which yes, this is the one i spoke of)
And I dont know whats going on with the BOV, but it flutters madly while on WOT. Not from partial like you're saying, but when i'm accelerating and its getting close to red line, it flutters.
My IX diverter valve does the same thing but only in 4th and 5th at WOT. As far as I can ascertain this is pretty normal due to the high volume of flow in my turbo at high RPM. All the air being forced into the intake manifold is not being injested into the cylinders therefore it's creating a pressure differential in the manifold. Obviously the DV receives it's pressure source from the intake manifold and when it differs from the UICP it will flutter to balance that pressure. I higher spring rate will fix this however it will also raise the chance of bucking under part throttle release.
As long as your boost pressure is not fluctuating the valve is doing it's job. However if you notice your boost gauge swinging wildly in conjunction with the noise then you have a weak DV/BOV and need to tighten it down (if adjustable) or replace it with something able to hold the higher pressure. Sounds to me that your system is working fine.
Well Al thought there was something funny going on too. Just didnt seem to want to hold to 24 which is were we set/tuned it at. Its not just in 4th or 5th, lower gears do it as well. Just not sure if the DV can handle it *shrug* What I kick myself for, is buying a nice Forge DV a while back, but selling it because it would have displaced my car into a different class that I didn't want to race in *smacks head*
So do the other parts hold no merit? I'm just gettin anxious to put some parts on, figured the mounts couldn't hurt. Cams, valve train upgrades, injectors and turbo will all happen, they just can't happen in the near future Eh, maybe I'll send my stock mani to get worked on, thats within my price range.
Tranny/motor mounts/engine damper
upgraded BOV (mine is not holding boost, leaks before WOT)
L/U ICP (BR most likely)
Thermostat
Cams - can't decide between JUN 272 or 280's
upgraded valve springs, retainers
injectors
meth????? really not sure on this one...but a lot of people seem to recomend it.
turbo - probably 20G....might want to go a slight bit bigger, just for more top end
For good shift quality I'd replace at least the front mount. I've also replaced my shifter cable/mount bushings to the metal ones and it took a bit of slop out of my shifter.
It sounds as if your current boost pressure might be too much for your stock valve to handle. Time to upgrade, at least for the track days.
Lower IC pipe does help a little with spool but the upper pipe hasn't been shown to net any gains other than looking pretty! However, common sense would indicate that a metal pipe does not expand under high boost like a piece of rubber tube will. So let your budget determine if you need the upper pipe.
If your thermostat is malfunctioning then I would recommend changing it. However if you want better cooling efficiency you need a better radiator, not a new thermostat.
Cams....as already stated the Jun's are very excessive for your current mod level. AMS has said themselves that they are a PITA to tune with the stock ECU and will not net you any significant gains over the HKS/GSC/BC cams with your stock turbo.
You shouldn't need to upgrade your springs/retainers unless you plan on going with a huge lift cam like 280's and plan on reving it higher than the stock rev limit.
Injectors won't be needed until you upgrade your turbo. If you go with the 20G I would recommend to increase to 680's or maybe even 720's if you also do meth.
Meth...can't say much about it other than it seems to do a great job of simulating race fuel without the high cost of race fuel.
Turbo...depending how much "top-end" you are wanting you can check out the numbers on the 20G-LT, FP Green or 50 trim. The higher you go the later the torque curve but the more you gain on the top end. If all you are doing is SCCA or short track racing I suggest you stay in the 20G size range.
I'm building my car for the Silver State Classic, which is a high speed highway race in Nevada. I will be maintaining speeds of 100-125 for around 90 constant miles. This is why I am looking for more top end, but not drag racing top end, if that makes sense. Also why I wanted to upgrade the valve train regardless, since i will be pushing it very hard around red line for an hour or more at a time.
This is also the reason for the thermostat, and eventually down the road like you said, a radiator and more efficient FMIC.
I know the UICP dont give a whole lot of gain, but a few years ago I bought the BR mini-battery kit for the purpose of running the UCIP. Like you say, even without much gain, going with metal vs plastic just seems like a good idea.
Thanks for the heads up on the tuning of the JUN's! I guess I'll look more towards a 280 like GSC or HKS. I'm really not looking to mod a whole lot to my current level, but to my desired level. Dont really want to buy a set of parts now, only to have to upgrade within a year to the more aggressive stuff.
As for the meth, I'm looking into either meth or E85.....this will just take some google time! Like Warr said earlier, even on the stock turbo with E85, I will need larger injectors. Again, planning for down the road, not the immediate. The car doesnt get driven a whole lot (16,500 on a 2004) so I'm not too worried about things not running quite right for the mean time until everything is completed.
A few other people have also suggested a good 50 trim turbo. Anyone have any suggestions for me to check out?
This is just an observation but you seem set on mods that might be excessive for your plans. I'll start with the top your last replay and work down.
At speeds of 100-125 you won't be running anywhere close to the rev limit on an Evo unless you never leave 4th gear for that entire time. (not a good way to stay in the race on any car) If this is a highway race then I will assume you will be spending most of that time cruising in 5th trying to maintain your position in the pack. At that speed and cruise you won't be in boost until you decide to pass or need to accelerate.
The only thing a thermostat does is determine when to allow the antifreeze to circulate through the engine/radiator. That is all. Once that temperature is reached it will remain open until your car is shut off and cooled down. I don't see why you think you'd need to replace the stock one as it works just fine. If improved cooling is what you need a thermostat will not help you at all with this race.
Without knowing more about the aspects of this race I can't really give a good solid opinion on cams/turbo. All the ones I mentioned before sound really good for short sprints and extended driving. A larger turbo is only good for helping you accelerate faster at higher RPM but won't do you much good down low. If straight highway driving is all you're in for then I suggest staying with a 20g equivilent.
One more thing about cams. Unless you plan on running a GT30 or higher I don't recommend 280's. You won't get much gain over 272's. Raising the rev limit won't do you much good either as the smaller turbo's just aren't efficient above 7K. Even my AMS 50trim starts to fall off after 6700 with 272's.
I'm in direct agreement with Evolvd on just about everything. I don't think you will get the intended result with Jun cams. You're going to have a car that barely runs and has a shoddy powerband for a race where you'll be cruising a lot and not making use of the cams anyway. JMO, but I could be wrong, since I don't know the race works.
Well just a quick run down of how the race works - dead stop, clock starts ticking the second you leave the line. the goal is to finish the race at a specific time, and you have a margain +/- from your "set" speed. in my case, this will be 110mph, and the time you try to cross the line at is the exact time it would take to run 90 miles at 110mph in a straight line from start to finish, not including the dead start. there are sweepers, turns, straights and elevation changes. in my 110 class, i can go no slower then 85mph and no faster then 124mph (they have random spots along the way where they hit you with radar) you race alone, cars leave every 30-45 seconds. so while there will be some cruising, there is also a lot of places where you will have to accelerate above 110 to catch up for the spots you were going slower.
I'm not really dead set on mods, i just want to cover EVERY base I can. constant high speeds in the nevada desert....i just want to be SURE i'm not going to over heat. but if you guys say i wont need the thermo on top of the radiator and intercooler, i'm not gonna argue! i asked cause i trust the opinions of the people on this board.
i am starting to narrow down the turbo to either the 20G-LT or a 50 trim kit, if this helps you guys give me advice as far as cams and other mods
Maybe I'm missing something, but a stock Evo will have no trouble maintining 124mph. I'd forget the other mods and look into something such as a radiator, and perhaps and upgraded oil cooler. You've got more than enough power to quickly reach the speeds you're allowed.
I'm not really seeing the point of more power, and how it would help besides get you up to your cruising speed quicker. Even with that said I ask this.. If you're going to have to do some math in your head to determine how much faster (and for how long) than 110 you're going to have to go, the same thing could be done with less power and sustaining that 'higher' speed slightly longer.
I say focus your attention on reliability mods rather than additional power. My $0.02
Eh, maybe I'll send my stock mani to get worked on, thats within my price range.
