OK, BUT PADS ARE CHEAPER THEN NEW ROTORS? YES OR NO?
you left your capslock on. sure, theyre cheaper until the rotors warp because slotted rotors have inherent hotspots on them . then you have to turn them or replace them. like I said, if you want the look and are willing to compromise, go for it. But theres absolutely no other reason for slotted or drilled rotors.
See RanE5 you are the only person that says this, I have asked quite a few people and everyone says slotted are great, Im not douting you or anything, but maybe you just had a bad experiece wth them ya know. Im goin to give them a try and see what happens.
See RanE5 you are the only person that says this, I have asked quite a few people and everyone says slotted are great, Im not douting you or anything, but maybe you just had a bad experiece wth them ya know. Im goin to give them a try and see what happens.
I have a huge bias against slotted rotors, yes,
But, you are just talking to the wrong people then. If they say slots de-gas the pads... Well new pad compounds dont gas bad at all. They take glaze off a glazed pad? well a few mid pressure stops from 50 do that too. their one saving grace, is they work better when wet initially, for that split second that a blank rotor would need to wipe the water off.
There are numerous reasons not to use slotted or drilled rotors, and only a few reasons to use them. bottom line, if they cost more, is it worth the price? no
Indeed it does not.. I was not trying to change ur oppinoin on them. I hope that they are good breaks and I hope they last me. but only time will tell tho.
FWIW, I run slotted rotors and Hawk HP+ with SS lines and Motul fluid. I've been running the same pads for over a year through lots of track days, daily driving, and autocrossing - no issues with pad wear, rotor warping. or anything else, and my pads are much more aggressive than HPS style, which are not for racing - street only.
Are you doing HP+ or HPS? You didn't specify what pads you're running, and Hawk has many different types. HP+ would be for racing mainly, but they are ok for the street. HPS would be for the street and would be somewhat ok for racing.
Thats a long time Clay, im impressed you have gotten that much life out of that setup. It could be that the car's I had slotted rotors and HP+'s on were heavier than an evo (3500lbs), with much smaller brakes (it is spelled 'brakes" BTW).
Clay, Im suprised im saying this, but the HPS's im using on the street are actually more pad than I expected. They still have enough bite and stopping power to easily get into ABS at auto-x's. Ill be interested to see how they do at a TT event. I expect them to fade quickly (my original plan was to run more aggressive pads for those) but Im going to try it out, who knows they might just suprise me.
The HPS pads are very poor for the Evo in track situations - at least on the VIII and IX - but not a problem in autox, because you have very little time to heat up pads for autox, and the speeds are very low. HP+ pads are NOT actually recommended for autox, but I am too lazy to have multiple sets.
I have had slotted rotors on 2 of my three evos and I have no complaints. I had stoptrch slotted and PM street pads and they worked awesome. I have now Rotora slotted with Axis pads and they work fine.. Squeak a liitle but I like them.
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WW Evo VIII/TB Evo IX SE
Anyone have experience with the Performance Friction Mettalic Z pads, from what I've seen, they seem to be a good all around pad that would also hold to some track days.
The HPS pads are very poor for the Evo in track situations - at least on the VIII and IX - but not a problem in autox, because you have very little time to heat up pads for autox, and the speeds are very low. HP+ pads are NOT actually recommended for autox, but I am too lazy to have multiple sets.
Yea thats what I thought. Depending on how things turn out, since I expected to be getting two sets of pads, I might end up getting hawk black or blue 9012 race pads.
I like to stick with hawk, theyre dirt cheap comparitively, and they do their job well.
. then you have to turn them or replace them. like I said, if you want the look and are willing to compromise, go for it. But theres absolutely no other reason for slotted or drilled rotors.
