Since my last dyno run at CarZ (458.8 awhp) I added an EBC to replace my MBC and also switched out my stocker IC with the Turbo XS one. Also switched to 100 octane and added some boost (up to 24psi). Then Tobz and I went out and logged a few runs and he played with some numbers and tuning. After all this was said and done and numbers were crunched, we figured I was at about 495-505 awhp on CarZ's dyno. With the mods listed in my profile plus a tune from Tobz
All was good until Thanksgiving night... It was super cold out and I was still on the stock bottom end... I gave my dad a good pull in 2nd and at about 5000rpm, KABOOM! 3rd cyl rod through the block wall leaving a hole about the size of a size 9 vans shoe... Also various holes in the oil pan. (Guess someone thought I didn't give enough thanks...)
Tore her apart and the turbo is fine (though probably going to be replaced by a IX) and the top end is unscathed. I pulled what was left of the 3rd cyl piston, pin, and rod out the hole and then laughed at myself...
So here's where I sit... Definitely going to stroke her to 2.3l. The question is, who and what? From all that I've looked at I've narrowed it down to these 3 stage 3 possibilities:
I'd completely stay away from anything Slowboy.. I'm not even going to get into why..
Buschur's 2.3 is fine
I think the best of the bunch is the JAM motor. The parts they use are a step above the JE/Eagle combo Buschur uses.
You might look into a 2.4 (or some variant there of) as you're going to need to source a new block anyhow. You'll find a 2.4L bottom end alot cheaper than an EVO block. Just a thought.
It really depends on how much horsepower you are looking to make. Being that you will need a new block it is going to cost a bit more than those sites have listed. My idea of a bullet-proof bottom end is Eagle rods & 100mm Eagle crank with CP pistons. Coated ACL bearings with ARP fastener to finish it up. Don't forget a full gasket kit, cometic head gasket, new oil pump, oil pan, oil cooler and all of the fluids. It would also be a wise idea to tear you head down and clean it too. check for any bent valves and such. Your new kevlar timing belt should be fine to re-use though
Don't forget the AMS package which has been proven itself many times over!
As for the bottom end, you should be fine sourcing a used bottom end out of a salvage as long as it compression checks fine. You're going to be completely tearing it down so a used motor shouldn't be any problems as long as the block is good.
Stick with the stock gasket set, including the head gasket. They are very reliable as proven by AMS who uses the OEM gasket on their race cars.
If you only want a 2.3 for the added torque but don't plan on beating the hell out of it with a huge turbo and tons of boost you should be fine with any of the lower end builds from JAM, Buschur or AMS.
Alright, thanks. But yeah, I don't plan on running huge HP or Boost on it. I'll probably settle somewhere in the 500 to 550 awhp range when off the bottle and I just want to make sure that the bottom end I'm upgrading to can handle that.
Everything I'm hearing and reading is pointing me more towards the JAM build using a used block for teardown. I'll look into that and keep in touch on what's happening! Thanks guys.
Yeah I was looking into jam as well. I wanna get a good bottom end for safty reasons I dont wanna run big numbers either, maybe 550-600, and a bottle... but i wanna be able to keep it driveable, and reilable. and I wanna do Autox, and things like that. So I dont wanna go all track car.
Yeah I was looking into jam as well. I wanna get a good bottom end for safty reasons I dont wanna run big numbers either, maybe 550-600, and a bottle... but i wanna be able to keep it driveable, and reilable. and I wanna do Autox, and things like that. So I dont wanna go all track car.
Good Lord, want some World Peace to go with that order?
Ouch sorry man have to keep an eye on the boost! I had to turn my boost down big time like 15 points on my ebc to get the same psi.. Good luck on the build!
The air has been cold and dry = alot more pressure.
Yes he sprayed Nitrous with the outside temps under 20 degrees. We had discussed that over 600 horsepower, the motor was going to be quite weak and could go at anytime. The tune was great no KNOCK at all. We retuned with 100 octane and got 40 more horsepower and 45 tor. The car really moved nice. Just to much power. Another member on the site with a same setup on his Evo 8 also blew his motor up and Friday night. Same thing, cold weather, nitrous hit, Boom, Same place on the motor, #3 piston right out of the block. Just proves that after 500 horses and up at the block and its just a time bomb. Both of these cars had great tunes, I tuned 1 and someone else tuned the other, just too much power.
Hey, what kinda Nitrous kit do u use? I want to get one after x-mas, umm what kinda shot, and how big? just wanting to know, didnt want to start another thread.
Check out evo-speedkings stroker setup he has for sale. It's a pretty good setup and the downtime will be greatly reduced. It was a pieced together setup by a guy who knew what he was doing.
As for a block, I have no leads at this time.
If you have the cash, AMS will sell you their 2.3rr stroker block. Really nice setup, but pricey.
I was looking at the AMS 2.3l RR but like you said, it is a little pricey. I think I'm pretty much settled on the JAM motor. They gave me a good quote on new block, rebuild and shipping for well under $6k. (The stage 3 kit good for 950+ awhp.)
As for spraying. Yeah I was spraying when it happened, just like tobz said. Hadn't remembered to turn down the boost controller to make up for the dense air. 75 wet shot by the way. (Shark not Pihrana).
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