Hello everyone. I'm strongly considering mounting my battery in the trunk. I've been trying the mini battery thing for a few months now and it isn't working out for me. I first had the genesis battery from Nisei and now I have the Odyssey battery. I think it is because I don't drive very far so the battery doesn't have time to receive a full charge while the car is running. I seriously have to hook up a battery tender to my car every few days and its a real pain in the ass. Whatever the reason, I'm done with mini batteries and don't really care for any opinions about them. If someone wants the Nisei kit with a couple batteries... I'll give you a good deal on them
Back to the trunk battery option. I plan on buying a sealed aluminum box from Jegs or Summit to mount a full size battery in the trunk and I will vent it through the floor pan of the trunk. Proper wiring with a junction box under the hood and fuses will be done of course.
My big concern is a "kill switch" that some people say is mandatory. I've been looking at NHRA rules and SCCA rules and can't find anything stating this is mandatory. Does anyone have any links about this? I plan on doing some racing at Bandimere and probably some auto-x this year and want to make sure that I'll pass tech inspection. For my daily driver I would rather not have a kill switch anywhere if it isn't truly required. The only thing I can find is about venting the battery if it is located in the cabin compartment... and this isn't even required everywhere if you have a gel battery like the Optima series.
Any solid info that people have on this would be appreciated.
Well, I found this on the NHRA site since I posted this. Not sure if I'll be doing this now.
"I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.
This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool."
The idea they mentioned about swapping out tail lights really is a good idea. I saw some pics of this on a mustang before... just didn't really know why.. now I do!
I really wonder if they'd even say anything about it on the test/tune days at Bandi.
I really do not think that it will be a problem at all at the level you are "racing". In the SCCA rule book for club racing and above, you have to have a kill switch accessible from outside the car, but you are not racing in any official organization. You should be fine.
Yeah, I don't plan on racing "for real" anytime soon. I'd still hate it if I showed up to a "for fun" event and wasn't able to pass tech.
I'm probably just going to get another UICP that will work with a normal size battery under the hood. Seems like the easiest option and I'll get the reliability of my car starting when I turn the key.
Yeah, I don't plan on racing "for real" anytime soon. I'd still hate it if I showed up to a "for fun" event and wasn't able to pass tech.
I'm probably just going to get another UICP that will work with a normal size battery under the hood. Seems like the easiest option and I'll get the reliability of my car starting when I turn the key.
i would be whiling to help you out with this issue by taking that UICP and battery off your hands and replacing it with my stock UICP and stock battery
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JustDSM dyno/tune day in the works, pm 4 info
Bandi has always been strict when checking my car, and that's BEFORE doing any runs. They have turned many people away for very minor things, because those are the rules. A relocated battery is a pretty big deal and is very noticeable, but you may get lucky.
Bandi has always been strict when checking my car, and that's BEFORE doing any runs. They have turned many people away for very minor things, because those are the rules. A relocated battery is a pretty big deal and is very noticeable, but you may get lucky.
you are alive!!! I thought you fell of the face of the earth.
Bandi has always been strict when checking my car, and that's BEFORE doing any runs. They have turned many people away for very minor things, because those are the rules. A relocated battery is a pretty big deal and is very noticeable, but you may get lucky.
Thats what I'm thinking... even though I MIGHT slide by.. it isn't worth risking for me. And there is a reason for this rule and I'm not willing to gamble with safety anyways.
Thats what I'm thinking... even though I MIGHT slide by.. it isn't worth risking for me. And there is a reason for this rule and I'm not willing to gamble with safety anyways.
then put it back the way it was I have an upper I/C pipe that clears the stock battery....
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