I honestly wouldnt resurface an evo flywheel in my shop. The risk that the clutch will prematurely wear, slip, or heaven forbid- the flywheel itself fail is simply not worth the (relative) low cost of a new flywheel, especially if the clutch being replaced due to abuse.
I ran 12.22 on the stock clutch and stock flywheel, and I ran 12.80 with just an SAFC (plz ignore altitude, because it doesn't really make a differene, har har), so 12.88 ain't provin' nuthin' 2 me!!! Wanna fight at the next meet?
I ran 12.22 on the stock clutch and stock flywheel, and I ran 12.80 with just an SAFC (plz ignore altitude, because it doesn't really make a differene, har har), so 12.88 ain't provin' nuthin' 2 me!!! Wanna fight at the next meet?
Unfair...I weigh as much as one of your legs....
P.S......to me a 12 is a 12.
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WW Evo VIII/TB Evo IX SE
I honestly wouldnt resurface an evo flywheel in my shop. The risk that the clutch will prematurely wear, slip, or heaven forbid- the flywheel itself fail is simply not worth the (relative) low cost of a new flywheel, especially if the clutch being replaced due to abuse.
Even with a heavier clutch disk? This would more than compensate for the amount of material taken off.
Even with a heavier clutch disk? This would more than compensate for the amount of material taken off.
Why would you think that? "Heavier" should not apply to the Disc, but to the PP, and only then by meaning more clamping force or added rigidity, and had damned well better be made to precision tolerances and NOT EVER "make up" for machine work done to a flywheel that shouldnt have ever been done in the first place.
Heres how I view it, and feel free to disagree with me all you want, its just MHO.
A manufacturer has a very very difficult balancing act between making a part servicable, and making a part people can afford, while ensuring decent quality. Somewhere some engineer who is specifically paid to figure out the flywheel/clutch/powertrain package evaluated whether or not the flywheel should be turned to be put back into service, and if so how much can be removed before replacement. No specification is given, so we must conclude they dont want us resurfacing them. This could be due to several things. The flywheel might be made to tolerance for the material used, clamping force of the intended clutch, etc. it might be surface hardened, it might not be. If it is surface hardened the depth to which it has been hardened might not allow surfacing, resulting in hot spots( places in the fly where material superheats and re-hardens, creating very very hard points that lead to clutch failure, chatter, slip, etc) cratering, grooving, etc. ESPECIALLY when used with an aftermarket clutch disc that it was never intended to be used with. if its at tolerance resurfacing may remove too much material and lead to catastrophic failure -unlikely, Mitsu operates on a very high failure ratio, but it IS a possibility, especailly when subjected to higher than expected loads, abuse, and simple wear and tear.
For the guy working at home doing his own clutch job- its up to you if you want to resurface or not. As a shop I cant afford to risk something like this, and I am very surprised any reputable shop would. A flywheel is a couple hundred bucks, having to re-do a clutch because it wore prematurely, or replace a trans because the trans died an early death because the disc was never really out of the friction zone, etc, is a LOT more.
Your opinion is the other side of the coin. I am not the first or the last person to run a resurfaced flywheel. I can see you as a business owner making a "business decision" to not resurface OE flywheels. I wouldn't either in that position. I give a certain shop my business because I trust the man making the calls for me. It's his game, he's played it longer than I've been alive. If he says this is the way to go, and my second opinion sources say yes as well. Then guess what. I go.
The car ran like a batt out of ell, clutch grabbed better than anything I've driven to date.( and an FL120 w/ a Eaton Fuller trans bites harrrrd) I'd say his decision was sound, and I'd let him do it again. Holding an EVO flywheel in your hand, you can tell there is some meat on it, if you can get a second life out of it go for it.
A heavier clutch disk is going to put more wear/tear on your trans (synchros, ect) not to mention slow your shifting ala ACT.
If this were true than all twin disk setups would be horrible. That is at least 1.??? times the rotating mass. By heavier I don't mean weight. Lets say "Thicker" "more robust" aka heavier clutch disk.
Hey guys, I might be purchasing a new EVO '03 with 33K Miles on her, from a guy named Ken Sasamato. Guy only drove the car for 2K miles and was in a divorce and needs to sell it.
Only issue is the clutch. I haven't test driven it yet, but he says it's slipping in 5th Gear.
- Should I stay clear of this car, or purchase this bad boy for $20K and have the clutch replaced?
- Who in Denver or surrounding area does clutch replacements? How much will it cost?
- Do you have any phone numbers I can call and get a quote?
- Any suggestions on the Clutch Kit I should go with. Car is used mainly as a DD.
- Would you recommend a new flywheel replacement at the same time?
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