1) What exactly on the mani is ported (if I were to buy a Buschur), I understand gasket matching the turbine housing flange. Is there any advantage of porting the exhaust primary flange? Doesn't the head need to be ported for this to net you a gain? (I'm not going to port my head, nor would I ever attempt to do such)
2) Is there any porting inside the bore of the primaries? Just smoothing? Cast leaves a rough / matte finish.
3) What is the alloy of the casting? I know this is a longshot, I don't want to tap threads into the casting for fear of splitting it or ability to cut a proper amount of threads to get a good seal. My buddy Nater is a "wiz" w/ the Heliarc, and Venus rod. I was thinking of letting him weld me a bung.
I have all the tools at my disposal to do this, virtually all the die grinders, abrasives, CNC mills and lathes. I just need to know how involved it is.
Anyone???
Last edited by KenMasters : 08-27-2007 at 07:57 PM.
Reason: clarification.
Would I be better off fixing my "Cracked Megan Mani" , gasket matching the turbine flange. and welding on a gussett for support?
I honestly care nothing for the Megan mani, and have been told by my tuner to ditch it and go w/ the ported stocker.
Being in the pipe industry, I do like the looks of the thing, and polished stainless heat rainbowed is awesome.--------------------But------------------------
Which one has superior flow. Keep in mind the FP green hanging on the end of the gosh darn.
Well, a ported stocker makes more power, won't crack, and costs less, so that's why we suggest it over the Megan.
You actually like the nasty swirl of doo-doo brown, blue, and other assorted colors once that thing gets hot? Looks ugly as hell to me - the exhaust does the same thing. What's worse is people mainly buy it JUST for the looks of when its shiny and new without realizing how it will look after a month.
I thought you of all people would have more info than your opinion. Ex. The details of the porting. I would buy a BR unit, but I am competant w/ metal work and could turn it around in less than a day.
It's not like they use a flow bench for each mani at BR. It has to be do-able. Details man details.
And yes, I like the look of stainless. In all forms it is pretty to me. I guess when you work w/ mild & AR & aluminum, you appreciate the prettier metals. When stainless blue's it's nice, in my opimion.
Last edited by KenMasters : 08-27-2007 at 10:02 PM.
Reason: holy rusted metal Batman
I thought you of all people would have more info than your opinion. Ex. The details of the porting. I would buy a BR unit, but I am competant w/ metal work and could turn it around in less than a day.
It's not like they use a flow bench for each mani at BR. It has to be do-able. Details man details.
I thought I gave more info than my opinion. The only opinion part is the comment about the "looks." I don't know the technical details of porting - I am no welder, engineer, or anything of the sort. I do know that they only gasket match the turbo side, because it does no good to do the head side of the runners unless the head is also ported. I couldn't tell you the material of the manifold other than cast iron nor the exact details of what they do to the runners.
Yes, it CAN be done by you with your knowledge and resources, but I can't give you the exact details. BR may answer if you ask, and if not, then maybe PPI (forget what that stands for).
Thanx Warr, that is exactly the answer I was looking for. No primary porting.
Any idea if they smooth the inside bore? I am eager to get this all lined out B4 install.
Thank you again Warr, I will squeeze all of the knowledge out of you eventually. :lol:
How about if I show you my pics, and you can decide if they "smooth the inside bore." It sure looks smooth, but that could be due to me getting jet coated (inside and out).
As far as I know, the stock manifold is plain cast iron. It's not like the high nickel 10.5 turbine housings.
The only way I know of to hit those runners right is extrude honing, but it costs a lot; http://www.boneheadperformance.com/s...xtrudehone.htm
... unless Buschur hires dudes with itty bitty hands and has way out porting tools.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenMasters
Which one has superior flow. Keep in mind the FP green hanging on the end of the gosh darn.
A tubular manifold will have better flow than a cast stocker, but the cost of that flow is lost heat energy. Tubular manifolds give off a rediculous amount of heat and that heat energy should be going through the turbo. The stock manifold can keep the exhaust gasses nice and hot and hot gasses flow better anyways.
My $.02;
If you have a turbo that can fit the stock manifold use it and you want the best for it; extrude hone, gasket match, ceramic coated outside only. The stuff can flake off and it's best to keep it out of the turbine blades.
Piggybacking on what Larry said, my coating is halfway flaked off now (on the outside), and it was coated on the inside, so who knows how much has flaked off right into my turbo.
How's about heatwrapping my tubular mani? Keeping all that warm gassy goodness inside?
Would this be a comparible alternative to porting the stocker? Gussetting the O2 housing for hanging weight of coarse. We wouldnt want Megan cracking under all that pressure.
How's about heatwrapping my tubular mani? Keeping all that warm gassy goodness inside?
Would this be a comparible alternative to porting the stocker? Gussetting the O2 housing for hanging weight of coarse. We wouldnt want Megan cracking under all that pressure.
Weld it up, make it strong, and definately wrap it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenMasters
Do they make "Turbo Flakes" beakfast cereal?.
Ahh...
the high octane way to start your mornings.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.