Okay recently I have bought BC cams. I have not yet installed them cuz I am waiting to order my Springs and Retainers, and my Head Studs.
But is there anything else I will need before I put them in. Will I need cam gears?
I know I will need a retune. and the sorts. but what else should i need?
For those cams (unless they're some special type or maybe if they're 280s), you don't need springs, retainers, studs, or cam gears, so that should answer your question. You just need a retune...
Oh okay, cuz People have told me I need springs and retainer, I called AMS and Talked to revolutions and both have said it is recomended. there 272s.
But thanks Warr. for clarifing it.
okay, thats good, i might have to wait, anyway, cuz i will be converting to e85 and turning the boost up more so I know ill need head studs, but im not in too much a hurry to get them in I can wait, but we will see.
Head studs aren't required for that either. In fact, some people argue that it's worse to do the one-by-one method on head studs, because that is not the proper method, and it can lead to oil leaks if not done perfectly. The proper way to change the bolts to studs is by removing the head, which is a labor-intensive process.
Also, you'd be hard-pressed to find people who have actually stretched the stock head bolts. I am still on the stock head bolts after 3 years of High Boost Abuse (HBA). I used to recommend this route, and I even have a set in my garage that I was about to do, but I held off and am unsure if I want to bother unless I get the head built.
If somebody wants to throw me thier old head-studs I can do a tensile strength test here at work. I probably only need one or two. They would be destroyed, as it is a "destructive test" . I would like to put the headstud myth to rest once and for all. I would assume they pull in the same neighborhood as the ARP hardware.
Coevo, heres the deal Head studs are better period. they have more tpi(threads per inch) which means can hold more tourge or pressure. Also reatainers will help at the high end of the rpm range. Now on the retainers you needint them they recommend them for your cams in the box if you notice. They are a good idea for enevn later down the road but it is not a must have right now. Head studs IMO is a great investment, just because that could save you from a blown head gasket from to much boost or worping your head that is alot of money for a 100 dollar set of head studs. Don't you think so? IMO anything over 24 you are pushing the limit of the stock head bolts. Notice I put IMO on thing I alone believe. Other people can chime in.
____________________________
SCOTT
EVO VIII SSL
313AWH 313TRQ
Not knocking you BamBAm, but the thread pitch cannot change. If that were the case you would have to heli-coil your head.
Heli-coil;--- Drill out sleeve and tap new thread
The only things different headstuds can offer are; higher tensile strength and different fatigue properties. and maybee corosion resistance, but I dont see corosion being a factor.
Not knocking you BamBAm, but the thread pitch cannot change. If that were the case you would have to heli-coil your head.
Heli-coil;--- Drill out sleeve and tap new thread
The only things different headstuds can offer are; higher tensile strength and different fatigue properties. and maybee corosion resistance, but I dont see corosion being a factor.
Sorry to piss in your corn flakes.
No biggy. I meant to say that is is a stronger thread count, not the number of threads. Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading.
____________________________
SCOTT
EVO VIII SSL
313AWH 313TRQ
Anyway, this is not a matter of opinion. Either the stock head bolts do or do not stretch. Find me examples of where they have stretched, and then it will be fact. I personally have been running 26+psi for 2 years now on the stock head bolts.
It can actually be MORE damaging if you do the one-by-one method, so while you're trying to PREVENT problems, you are potentially creating them. If you remove the head and do them properly, then that's a very good thing for the car, but no one does that unless they are swapping or rebuilding the head. Many of the Evo gurus recommend NOT doing head studs if using the one-by-one method, because there is no evidence showing that the stock bolts will stretch. By no means is 24psi the limit...
I am at 24 PSI right now.... and I am just worried shit might hit th fan...
So Springs and retainers cna be done down the road?
Cams Now or Later?
Ohh and I am young and stupid so I do take it up there on the RPMs, so this is a MAJOR factor.
Anyway, this is not a matter of opinion. Either the stock head bolts do or do not stretch. Find me examples of where they have stretched, and then it will be fact. I personally have been running 26+psi for 2 years now on the stock head bolts.
It can actually be MORE damaging if you do the one-by-one method, so while you're trying to PREVENT problems, you are potentially creating them. If you remove the head and do them properly, then that's a very good thing for the car, but no one does that unless they are swapping or rebuilding the head. Many of the Evo gurus recommend NOT doing head studs if using the one-by-one method, because there is no evidence showing that the stock bolts will stretch. By no means is 24psi the limit...
ARP head studs are roll formed instead of cut threads like stock, I figured I would explain what I mean in grave detail to you. what this means cut treadds can become weak over time, not not only are the ARP head studs roll formed but they are formed after heat treated. That means a stronger thread!
____________________________
SCOTT
EVO VIII SSL
313AWH 313TRQ
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