Well time to start modding on the Evo VIII and im having trouble deciding on a clutch. Here is what i plan to do as far as mods, and keep in mind it isnt my dialy driver either.
Garret GT30R Turbo kit with tial wastegate
full3 inch turbo back exhaust.
arp head studs
Bigger injectors and fuel pump
TRE stage 3 Tranny
Shep stage 3 Transfer Case.
I cant decide on what clutch to get though, i wont be doing any autox or anything like that, mainly just a couple hard lauches here and there at the drag strip.
Just let me know what clutch you think would be the best and some reasons would be helpful also.
It really depends on the money you want to spend. I can tell you that if you want to shift fast stay away from the act! They have a huge lockout problem. Exedy is the way to go if you dont hammer/stab the clutch when you shift, the retainer clips come apart if you do. If you dont mind spending the money go tilton.
Easy choice here - Exedy Twin HD cerametallic all day long. I have two separate review threads on Exedy clutches in the review section, I believe. I tested their new 4-puck single disk, which was awesome for racing, but pretty harsh on initial engagement (as expected), and I now am testing/using/racing their Twin Carbon, which is dreamy.
Easy choice here - Exedy Twin HD cerametallic all day long. I have two separate review threads on Exedy clutches in the review section, I believe. I tested their new 4-puck single disk, which was awesome for racing, but pretty harsh on initial engagement (as expected), and I now am testing/using/racing their Twin Carbon, which is dreamy.
No problems with the retainer clip yet? Do you by any chance know when they are switching to the hydrolic push style? Thats when I will put one back in my car. I Loved the twin ceramatallic hd, It shifted so nice and drove even better! The only issue I had was a big one. Went through 4 retainer clips!
Never heard of nor experienced the retainer clip problem. The Twin HD cerametallic is the most common aftermarket clutch in the Evo community in terms of people who race or have good power, and I haven't seen this problem before. Not saying it hasn't happened to others - just saying it's definitely not known as a common problem on EvoM with 40,000+ members.
You are correct warr. It's not a common problem as most don't drive as hard as us. Ask the guys at buschur if you are curious about this issue. This is a problem for all high reving cars that are driven hard. buschers race car, Ams race car, Curt brown and the list goes on. Again I loved the clutch minus this issue. It is becoming such a big deal that Exedy is trying to design a push style along with the guys at Ams.
Ah, well, maybe it's the high-revving? I shift no later than 7100-7200 at the drag strip and even lower on the road course, but I can't imagine there being many people that snatch it harder than I do at the drag strip. I have over 250 passes in the Evo without this particular problem, but I haven't done many of those on this Twin Carbon. I did a lot on the 4-puck, but it was flawless - not sure if those were supposed to have the same problem or not.
If you're saying it's common to the REALLY POWERFUL big dogs like the ones you mentioned, then yeah, that's a small group of people. I only make mid 300s on a Dynojet, so that's probably why it's no issue here.
i have a twin HD and like it. kinda overkill and it bumped me in class for autoX but other than that no complaints or retainer clips issues but im at stock power.
You have a lot of options, and they will mostly be a matter of preference. Exedy has a good twin plate (which I'm curently breaking in), as well as a triple. THey also do carbon plates (which Warr is using) good for fairly dedicated track cars (once heated, they start to really shine in performance) If you want to convert to a push style, HKS and Tilton will do you well, though both are pricey. ACT's are a good clutch that can hold the power but do have a common lockout problem. Jack's transmissions in Colorado Springs and other dsm/evo tuners (of whom I don't have any other names off the top of my head) will send the pressure plate to a machinist to fix the issue relatively cheaply. RPS makes a decent clutch as well.
I can tell you that if you want to shift fast stay away from the act! They have a huge lockout problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WANTED
ACT's are a good clutch that can hold the power but do have a common lockout problem.
The lockout propem is just a poorly adjusted clutch. Get under the dash with a 12mm wench loosen the lock nut and screw the clutch rod in or out till it engages where it suppost to. I did this and even with ACT's xtreme pressure plate I've never had a problem.
The lockout propem is just a poorly adjusted clutch. Get under the dash with a 12mm wench loosen the lock nut and screw the clutch rod in or out till it engages where it suppost to. I did this and even with ACT's xtreme pressure plate I've never had a problem.
So where should it engage? If you back it out to far(the pedal) it will just slip.
It's actually from a poorly adjusted clutch, because other clutches DO NOT have this lockout problem no matter where you set the clutch. The ACT has the problem even if the clutch is adjusted properly, and the only way to "fix" it is to adjust the clutch rod way out to almost the end of the threads, which also puts the pedal engagement near the top of the pedal travel (sucky). If you go far enough, it goes away (for a while). If you go too far, the clutch slip and burns up in a hurry. For me, I adjusted it, and it worked for a while. When the lockout came back, i adjusted it again - it worked then came back. Eventually, I couldn't go any further, and my clutch burned up really quickly after that.
With both my Exedy 4-puck and Twin Carbon, I can powershift with utter ease, and I even adjusted my clutch rod so that my clutch engaged near the floor, and I could STILL powershift at 7k.
It's actually from a poorly adjusted clutch, because other clutches DO NOT have this lockout problem no matter where you set the clutch. The ACT has the problem even if the clutch is adjusted properly, and the only way to "fix" it is to adjust the clutch rod way out to almost the end of the threads, which also puts the pedal engagement near the top of the pedal travel (sucky). If you go far enough, it goes away (for a while). If you go too far, the clutch slip and burns up in a hurry. For me, I adjusted it, and it worked for a while. When the lockout came back, i adjusted it again - it worked then came back. Eventually, I couldn't go any further, and my clutch burned up really quickly after that.
With both my Exedy 4-puck and Twin Carbon, I can powershift with utter ease, and I even adjusted my clutch rod so that my clutch engaged near the floor, and I could STILL powershift at 7k.
Hmmm... Maybe I'm just lucky. Maybe it's ACT's disks??? I know all the pressure plates are the same.
The clutch should engage in the middle. You just have to get under there and play with it at different spots till it's right. It's not hard.
"Every time the clutch or flywheel gets replaced the clutch needs to be adjusted. Many people assume incorrectly that since it is a hydraulic system that it does not need adjustment or that it does not need adjustment. Wrong. You want a little free play off the floor before the clutch begins to grab. You also will need a little free play at the top of the pedal travel. " http://www.roadraceengineering.com/c...ywheeltech.htm
Yeah, that's the thing, it does NOT work with the clutch engagement in the middle. That's where mine was, and I had horrible lockout problems. When I adjusted it, I had to adjust the pedal higher so that it would not lockout, but that was only a temporary problem. It appears, though, that it's not so much an ACT problem as it is an organic single disk problem. If you notice, neither my 4-puck nor Twin Carbon is organic.
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