Do the 264/272, Darwin's. As for the manifold, only port and coat your stocker. I do not recommend purchasing a tubular aftermarket manifold. It won't make as much power, will not be coated, it will cost more, and it will be prone to cracking.
I'm running HKS 264/272's and dyno'd at mac around 350+awhp/tq catless on 91 octane. I've just got the basic boltons. MAC autosports told me that 264/264's give the best results up here at elevation, from their experiences. My recommendation would first be 264/264 and then 264/272.
I am running the same....hks 264/272...and I am running 360whp at MAC with a SAFCII.....So Darwin8...there are at least two Evo owners here that have the same combo...and it works just fine. Plus my friend has an evo and he has 264/272. It works great....and even gives you a little lopey idle....and that cool sound.
So here is a good thought......the powere difference between 264/264 and 264/272 is about maybe at most 1-5hp difference. So the the question is...do you want that cool lopey sound from cams......cause if so go 264/272.....if not...then go 264/264.....cause the power gains between the two....are so smalll you won't know the difference.
You only have a lopey idle if you do not adjust the tune. I have no lope, because Al tuned it to idle smoothly. Kevin, you have a lope, because you are still using the SAFC. However, when someone PREFERS the lope, it can still be left in place when flashed, but most of the time, we try to tune it out to be smooth. Do not choose cams based on lope or no lope...JMO.
Smokey, what kind of problems did you have once you had the flash done because the last thing I want to do is screw something up. I'm pretty sure if or when i get flashed i'm going to get rid of the safc because i don't do any tuning myself (cause i don't know how) so what the point of having it.
On the subject of which cams however, I'm not sure which combo to go with because i keep hearing different opinions. I'm told the 264/272 isn't going to give me the power gain i'm looking for. Then i hear the 272/272's will give me a good increase but I may also inherate an unstable idle and problems with emissions. I'm ready to buy but I just don't know which ones i want.
It's not necessarily the problems....It's just the fact that I did not make great power with the Flash. Vishnu's flash...just basically did not work very well....plus he never responded to me or any of my PM's or e-mails....so stay away from him.
Al's flash worked......but I tried adding injectors...after the flash...and my car threw check engine codes...and it didn't like it. I don't blame Al for that......I just blame my car. It was just never meant to make power.....and Warr and I discussed some methods's. He helped me make my car smoother...but it just never seems to be completely right.
Therefore....if you car runs great already....then make sure you get a copy of your stock ECU.....before you flash it....cause then you can go back to the stock settings.....if you don't like the flash. Mine is so far gone....that there is no going back.
The flash will give you better pull over your powerband...and better driveability. But only you will know if it makes your car better or not...since you drive it on a dialy basis. Just make sure you have the stock settings saved somewhere....just in case you want to go back to it.
You only have a lopey idle if you do not adjust the tune. I have no lope, because Al tuned it to idle smoothly. Kevin, you have a lope, because you are still using the SAFC. However, when someone PREFERS the lope, it can still be left in place when flashed, but most of the time, we try to tune it out to be smooth. Do not choose cams based on lope or no lope...JMO.
Good point......But I do like that lopey sound.....kind of lets you know that you have something under the hood
Ghoonk, we aren't really discussing the benefits of cams in general. We're discussing what's best at 6000' altitude where our cars behave much differently. 272s work great near sea level like I've mentioned and as you show here. Also, the -4/-1 is the most popular cam gear setting for people who want mostly top-end, which again can be seen in your graphs. Unfortunately, we can't make use of that up here at high altitude.
Speaking of cam gears, I was thinking about getting a set of HKS's since they're coming off anyway for the installation of the cams. Is that something that would be a good idea or not?
Also I was going to see if Warr's buddy (JustDSM) can still do the install of the cams, gears, fuel pump and get the custom flash and tune.
With that said before I order everything, is there ANYTHING as far any other supporting mods that i'll need for everything listed above? Last thing I want to have happen is come time for install, I need something else. I want to feel confident that my car will run great after it's all said and done. So if you guys think of any please let me know.
Personally I'd look at another set of gears. The HKS ones are of a 3 bolt design which is inferior to that of the 5 bolt design. The gears are not a necessity, but they will allow you to wring out the last bit of power from your setup. I've found the Unorthodox Racing gears to be the best of the best in terms of adjustable gears. But they are NOT cheap. I've played with them on the dyno quite a bit w/ various setups and have found some healthy gains with them even at this altitude.
As far as other items to get when installing these.. You could look at replacing the valve cover gasket depending on the mileage of your car, however I doubt you have enough to really NEED to replace it. I would suggest replacing the cam seals and getting a spare set of dowels for the cam and gears. It'll save some headache breaking the stock bolts lose if you end up going with adjustable gears. They're just a buck or so each anyway. I'd also look at replacing the CAS (camshaft angle sensor) gasket. Its a buck or two as well. Other than that you should be good to go.
I'm definately avail. to install those parts for you. My schedule is pretty booked for the rest of this month.. But I am sure I could squeeze you in.
Wow, it sounds like alot but that's exactly the kind of input I was looking for. What about without the gears. The car only has 12,500 miles so does that mean I wouldn't need the valve cover gasket replacemen or CAS? Only reason I'm asking is because if the gears are not a necessity then I may stick with the stock gears. What ever is best for the car. Is the gain really worth all the extra bits?
This is why I am referring everyone to Justin. I know a lot, but I'm no mechanic, and I wouldn't know to make suggestions like that nor be able to do the installs anyway.
Darwin's, cam gears are not necessary by any means ON MOST EVOS, but again, due to our elevation issues, cam gears CAN be used to our benefit. The problem is you have to know how to use them, and that's where Justin can help...
With 12K miles on the car I highly doubt you're valvecover gasket is in need of replacing. The CAS gasket is something I like replacing every time I remove that cover since its a metal gasket and once it's compressed it will not seal as it did the first time. The last thing I'd want is for me to do a cam install and have someone later complain that their car is now leaking oil Here's the PN# for that gasket: MD329503
Like Warrtalon and I have both said, the gears are not a necessity, they are one of those parts that can benefit you but are not a must. It really comes down to what you want out of your car. If you're not going to lose some sanctioned event because you were down 4hp @ 6300RPM you probably don't need the gears. They're one of those things I'd say are "nice to have". More often than not, I advise people to just use the stock gears. I would still suggest picking up two spare dowels. Their PN# is: MD158443
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I'm ready to buy but I just don't know which ones i want.
