Are you using a S-AFC? If so, try lean it out a little (-2%) at 5800-6000 and from 6200 on up. See if it gets the O2 values straight across with no timing being pulled. What octane is this on? Maybe add a touch between 5400-5600 if it keeps holding the timing in that spot.
Ya, the EGT would be for safety, especially since you have a logger. But it's easier to look over at the gauge to see if something wrong than look at a logger.
thanks for the input,
I'm using S-AFC II this is on 93
Ill take that into considerration, I dont know if its good to lean it out more on top since I dont have wideband or EGT , I think I should wait for at least the EGT to be installed.
it acts as a saftey precaution isn't that good enough.
Tell me how?
P.S. I have run up to 1025C*. What have we learned?
EGT does not matter unless you are a sustained road racer. WOT 25+min.
Boost, Ign Timing, A/F, Octane are what matter.
I don't want to come off like a prick, but if you are not going to listen to the fastest and quickest Evo on the forum, who are you going to learn from? No one has ever touched my car but me, not even the dealer. I'm sure Warrtalon can identify with my frustration.
I dont know if its good to lean it out more on top since I dont have wideband or EGT , I think I should wait for at least the EGT to be installed.
You can still bring it down a little with just the logger. Watch the timing for signs of knock/pulled timing. That will show up before any damage or dangerous lean conditions.. I wish I had 93 at the pump.
P.S. I have run up to 1025C*. What have we learned?
I don't want to come off like a prick, but if you are not going to listen to the fastest and quickest Evo on the forum, who are you going to learn from? No one has ever touched my car but me, not even the dealer. I'm sure Warrtalon can identify with my frustration.
wow, most say keep it under 900C, I dont know if 1025C is good, I assume if your car is fine doing that then good for you.
You dont want to sound like a prick, but you kinda really sound like one by making that "quickest Evo" comment. You might know more then me, or have a faster Evo then me, but there are ways of expressing it with out being a "prick"
Guess I need to update my time slip, so you can take advice from the fastest (but not quickest....yet) EVO on the forum!
Keith
PS: I will get the new slip scanned eventually.
PPS: My times are on pump gas with a bit of alcohol injection
Quote:
Currently Buschur Racing Stage 4+++ (stage 4 plus cam gears, sheet metal intake, 272 HKS cams, AEM EMS, and GT35R turbo upgrade)
I would hope you could hit 119 mph with your mod list. A client of mine ProccoEvo is doing 140.xxmph with that turbo to contrast.
Me and my factory ECU, stock clutch, stock injectors, stock intake manifold, stock intake pipes, stock turbo and no racegas would indicate that I know a thing or two about tuning.
We WILL hit 118mph tonight... I got booted after one pass Friday with a 94.02 in the 1/8 and 117.66 in the 1/4. Shitty 1.78X launch. The next pass was planned to be the 11.6'er.
Quote:
wow, most say keep it under 900C, I dont know if 1025C is good, I assume if your car is fine doing that then good for you.
You dont want to sound like a prick, but you kinda really sound like one by making that "quickest Evo" comment. You might know more then me, or have a faster Evo then me, but there are ways of expressing it with out being a "prick"
I actually relooked the log and it has run higher than that. Off throttle the a/f was rich which shows me some fuel was burning post cylinder still which is why the EGT's were that high. Evo's have a strong motor. Detonation and pre-ignition will kill the motor 90% of the time, not EGT.
I see a lot of threads go something like this: I need advice, blah, blah, blah. Then you get a response from someone with a proven record to know what they are talking about. Then the person responds, no "I think, blah, blah, blah." If you know what you are doing already, then why ask?
This is my frustration, I enjoy helping people.... If they listen to the sound advice. Unfortunately sometimes I am forced to demonstrate my credibility with a timeslip or dynosheet. The sole purpose is not to brag, but to say "Look here, I have a proof source to back up my advice as to why you should take the advice, it works". Hope you understand.
so are you saying that having EGT over 900C is ok?
I understand ur frustration, however I never doubted your credability to begin with, I just thought EGT was a useful tool as alot of people have them, even you.
Some other things to keep in mind when it comes to EGT's;
1. A lot of it depends on probe location, the closer it is to the collector/turbo, the higher temp.'s your going to see.
2. There is a relation between high EGT's and knock. "If you are running too lean for the boost and octane you have in the tank, you will get knock or pre-ignition. The knock sensor bolted to the engine block will pick up this "pinging" sound long before you can hear it inside the car. When under higher boost, there is almost always small amounts of knock. At these small amounts of knock the ECU will continue to advance timing normally. At mid knock levels the ECU will hold timing and if it gets too high or rises quickly, the ECU will begin to retard timing if not pull it all the way back to zero. You can hear the exhaust note change when the timing goes away. It will turn deeper , almost rumbly sounding. When the timing is retarded, the ignition process happens so late that the flame front shoots out the exhaust port when the exhaust valve opens and blows still expanding, really hot gas directly onto the EGT probe. So internally the pistons are barely warm, but the exhaust manifold and turbo get real hot. This is the reason we recommend not running EGTs higher than 900 degrees C. That is the point that timing retard is usually driving the EGTs up. Not that immediate damage is being done, it is just that you are no longer making additional power above that temperature and there is no benefit to running there." http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafc.htm
so it looks like Im getting small knock from 5k-5.6k. since im gettin flat timing.
what does the weather have to do with knock/timing?
the weather dropped to 30s in nyc now compared to like 50 last week how much temp change will cause noticeable changes that you actually need to adjust the AFC???
The colder the air, the denser the charge air is into the motor. At the same karman HZ reading, more oxygen is actually making it into the motor which will lean out the mixture. Now the AIT sensor is supposed to read the temp of the air and add some fuel for cold air, but you may still run on the lean side. The same principal will apply to the boost solenoid. The air is colder and denser so the stock boost may actually become higher than normal also. These two factors, raised boost and leaner fueling may contribute to your timing condition.
Personally, I would not pay attention to what is perceived as "held timing". You need to log rpm + timing. Only count timing when the rpms are climbing, not when you are shifting. If it goes:
8-9-9-10-12-14-15-16-16-17-18-18-18-19 this is not considered knock. It depends what cells the load is referencing in the ECU for given timing and probably is normal. If it goes:
8-9-9-10-12-14-15-16-15-14-13-17-17-18 then I would consider that knock.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
