Right on I appreciate all your help on the matter. I'll ask you where i should go for the custom flash when it's time. I was even thinking about getting dyno tuned once the cams are in if you know anyone out here.
Well, you don't get tuned by the dyno, but you can get tuned ON the dyno. It still requires a tuning device to be used (flash, SAFC, etc.). You can get your custom flash while on the dyno, but it's not necessary unless you just prefer to pay for both the flash and the dyno time.
1) You don't have to get tuned on the dyno to see your power after the tune. You can dyno at any point in time afterwards and get the results.
2) Tuning on a dyno does not mean you get optimal performance on the street. It only means you get optimal performance while stationary on a set of rollers with the hood open. You still do several (or many) pulls during road tuning just like on a dyno except that you rely on the sensor logging to optimize for the best combo of boost, AFRs, timing, and knock.
In the end, good tuning can be done on both the road and track, but only the road is the true environment where your car lives. There are times when the best tune on a dyno is not the best tune on the road, which means sometimes the best tune on the road does not always make the highest numbers on the dyno.
I would agree that if you're wanting a custome tune then doing it on the road is the way to go. Why try to simulate actual conditions the car is driven in when you can actually go out and drive it in those conditions?
fyi: a dealer flash usually is just an "update" to little systems. things like idle control, partial throttle driveability, and tolerances are usually the only things dealers touch, rarely have I seen them increase power. A custom flash/tune is what everyone has been talking about, its designed to increase performance figures beyond what the dealer wanted.
I never thought about that. Sitting on rollers and is alot different than actual street driving. I guess a dyno is not needed. I'll have to find someone out here that knows how to custom tune. Its hard knowing who trust with something like that.
Darwin, I got you covered on the trustworthy tuner. We're talking $300 or less.
A good flash tune can make anywhere from 20-40whp, but the total area under the curve is more important than the peak gains. You'll see gains all through the powerband.
So with the cams and the flash, were talking like a 60 whp gain. Am I in any danger of over working anything as far as internals,fuel pump,injectors etc? Last thing I want is to get that done and be told I need all these other parts to go with all the new power.
p.s. Is this going to be too much of a load on the stock drivetrain? I keep hearing that it's only a matter of time before the stock clutch and transfer case go out.
Last edited by Darwin's 8 : 02-21-2007 at 05:31 AM.
Spend the $100 and get a Walbro 255lph pump for you car. It's pretty cheap insurance and they are not hard to install on Evo's. On my mustang I just sold I got to do it the old fashioned way of dropping the tank and all the crap that comes down with it.
You definitely need a fuel pump if you don't already, but the stock injectors are fine. Who is telling you that it's only a matter of time before the t-case goes out? You don't see us saying that here, so I'm curious where you'd hear such a thing. Yes, the stock clutch won't last long at all, and I'm surprised your used Evo even HAS the stock clutch still, but that's not a big deal. The stock clutch is weak and is a wear item - it's expected to go out. The t-case is not weak and will only break if you do 7k clutch dumps. Otherwise, it should never give you a problem nor should anything in the drivetrain except maybe the synchros, which would get fixed under warranty anyway.
Look, we're just talking basic mods here. It may seem like a lot to you, but this is the basic, standard mod path for all Evos. Tons of Evos out there have stg1 mods + cams - it's nothing to worry about.
I don't expect you to gain 60whp from the cams + flash due to how crappy the elevation is, but if you were at sea level, then I'd expect that. We don't get nearly as much gains with cams up here, since we simply can't flow enough air.
I don't have an AM fuel pump so sounds like i'll need one. Are you sure that walbro is only $100?
I read in a Turbo and Perfomance Magazine artical that people have been bringing their Evos back to the dealerships due to transfer case failure. They were probably launching the hell out of them. My clutch however is sure to go at some point. I have NEVER launched my car because of the fear of cooking it. Trying to make it last as long as possible but it sucks because i can only imagine the feeling of this thing leaping of the line. It costs A lot to get a good clutch and have it installed properly so i'm milking it.
So with the cams and the flash, were talking like a 60 whp gain. Am I in any danger of over working anything as far as internals,fuel pump,injectors etc? Last thing I want is to get that done and be told I need all these other parts to go with all the new power.
p.s. Is this going to be too much of a load on the stock drivetrain? I keep hearing that it's only a matter of time before the stock clutch and transfer case go out.
Only if you launch by dropping clutch will your drivetrain and TC suffer. Your clutch will die with enough launches regardless and when that happens we'll be hear to recommend the right one for you.
If you don't mind me asking, here do you order parts from? I know you might not be able to say on a public thread but if you could PM me that would be cool to. Why don't I need the install kit?
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It costs A lot to get a good clutch and have it installed properly so i'm milking it.
