Hey everybody! I was wondering if anybody knew what the cause and solution of this problem I am assuming could be. I'm thinking it could be a turbo leak. I havn't been racing my car lately and just been cruising to work and home. Earlier I punched my car and the turbo didn't kick all the way until higher rpm. Around 4-5krpm the turbo stops and then starts again. Earlier it seemed like it was pulling pretty hard but it always stopped around midrange from 4-5k. Maybe a hose is loose, turbo leak or fluids? It smelled kinda funny when I got outta the car tho. It smelled like a light light smoke scent. I'm planning on driving my car 12 hours outta state so I need all the preparations ready. My cars gotta be up and running right before I take off to a road trip. Any advice would be helpful. I'm planning on taking it to the dealership right before I go outta state in case anything could go wrong. Thanks
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Team Marjac Racing
Last edited by turbolarry : 06-17-2007 at 12:18 PM.
I think you mean a "boost leak." A "turbo leak" would mean fluids are leaking out of it, which is a bad thing. I don't think you have a boost leak or a turbo leak. I'm very curious what a "light light smoke scent" is, though. That gave me a chuckle.
Putting on my swami hat, my guess is your clutch is slipping. What you're explaining as the turbo not kicking in is really the clutch slipping, which means you make no power, and then at a higher rpm, the clutch grabs and accelerates. Did you not notice the rpms jump up when this happens? Usually, people notice that and aren't sure how to explain it.
To verify this, go out and put your car in 5th gear at around 2500rpm and punch the gas 100%. Hopefully, you have a boost gauge, so you can see w hen boost builds, but if you don't, then watch your RPMs at the point when boost begins to build. If the RPMs shoot up without the car accelerating, then after a short time, the RPMs fall back down and the car goes...then you know for sure the clutch is slipping.
I think you mean a "boost leak." A "turbo leak" would mean fluids are leaking out of it, which is a bad thing. I don't think you have a boost leak or a turbo leak. I'm very curious what a "light light smoke scent" is, though. That gave me a chuckle.
Putting on my swami hat, my guess is your clutch is slipping. What you're explaining as the turbo not kicking in is really the clutch slipping, which means you make no power, and then at a higher rpm, the clutch grabs and accelerates. Did you not notice the rpms jump up when this happens? Usually, people notice that and aren't sure how to explain it.
To verify this, go out and put your car in 5th gear at around 2500rpm and punch the gas 100%. Hopefully, you have a boost gauge, so you can see w hen boost builds, but if you don't, then watch your RPMs at the point when boost begins to build. If the RPMs shoot up without the car accelerating, then after a short time, the RPMs fall back down and the car goes...then you know for sure the clutch is slipping.
Yeah, you're totally right. My clutch is doing what you've exactly said. It jumps up and accelerates again after. I've also tried that 5th gear thing a week or two ago when I was racing my cousins se-r in 5th gear. It jumped when I punched it and I was wondering why? Since I know what the problem is now. How long does my clutch have left before I have to change it? Is it ok to go on a road trip with it like it is now?
It will get gradually worse and then not work at all. It could take days or weeks - hard to say. It's unlikely to be good for a long road trip. it would be very bad if it went out on you while on the road trip, because you'll be stuck, and it's a very expensive job. The clutch + flywheel + fluids + install will be $1200-1500.
It will get gradually worse and then not work at all. It could take days or weeks - hard to say. It's unlikely to be good for a long road trip. it would be very bad if it went out on you while on the road trip, because you'll be stuck, and it's a very expensive job. The clutch + flywheel + fluids + install will be $1200-1500.
Thanks for the advice. You said it could take days or weeks? Well, from now on i'mma just cruise as much as possible to preserve the life outta the clutch. I was planning on driving my car for 12 hours to another state. I was hoping it can make it with calm driving all the way and back. Mann, bad timing just had to happen nowadays. The clutch could go out anyday now ehh? $12-1500!! Mann and I'm still paying for my car..I kinda wanna take the risk and drive it on a road trip but thats too risky. I need a professional observation. That just sucks!
Sorry to hear about you clutch. How good are you with tools and do you have a slide hammer?
Give a thanks to Swami-talon.
Im a beginner with tools and inexperienced in the mechanical world. Although I could start getting more involved and be a mechanical person. But I've heard that you've gotta mess around to know how to get around. My cousins and my brother are more of a mechanic than I am when it comes to automobiles. Do you have any tips and shorter routes? Better clutch or OEM? Cheapest place or strategy I could do as of right now? Should I keep driving my car or just leave it in the garage as a project until everythings up to status? I heard it also takes 11 hours to change a clutch. You think it is a good idea to trust my cousins and brother 2 change it out for me? Let me know whats wise. Thanks
Drive the car as little as you can. When you do, don't slip the clutch at all. It's already going, and when it dies, who knows where you'll be... and it will die. That's the downside to pull style clutches; you don't know how much longer it's really going to last.
Your brother/cousin is a real mechanic or just more than you? If they are real mechanics then have them help you. Have them read over this first; http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tec...f01d07f1f29a45
... and see if it's something they want to take on. I was able to do it on jack stands, have a good collection of tools, and a DSM crazed Toyota Master Tech looking over my shoulder and it took 16 hours. It's a tough job, but it can be done.
Before you choose a clutch, OEM or upgrade, you need to decide what your going to do with the car.
PS
I hope you don't mind, but I added to your thread title for others future refrence.
Drive the car as little as you can. When you do, don't slip the clutch at all. It's already going, and when it dies, who knows where you'll be... and it will die. That's the downside to pull style clutches; you don't know how much longer it's really going to last.
Your brother/cousin is a real mechanic or just more than you? If they are real mechanics then have them help you. Have them read over this first; http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tec...f01d07f1f29a45
... and see if it's something they want to take on. I was able to do it on jack stands, have a good collection of tools, and a DSM crazed Toyota Master Tech looking over my shoulder and it took 16 hours. It's a tough job, but it can be done.
Before you choose a clutch, OEM or upgrade, you need to decide what your going to do with the car.
PS
I hope you don't mind, but I added to your thread title for others future refrence.
Thanks for the link and advice. We will follow those steps you've shown me. I hope all goes well. The clutch that i'd get? It seems getting another stock clutch wouldn't be wise. I'm not planning on running 400-500hp in the future. Probably the highest would be 350+ in a few years slowly. Stage 2 sounds good. I've also heard exedy is good. Let me know. Also let me know about flywheels. Thanks
i have an exedy twin and its nice. kinda grabby for street driving but you get used to it. maybe check out the ACT HDSS i hear it is very nice and streetable.
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