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Old 09-29-2010, 08:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Car: 05 EVO
Club Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Sep 2010
Posts: 9
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new car, many questions.

I just picked up a 2005 Evo. The previous owner installed some mods and I'm trying to get a baseline for what I have. Unfortunatly no guages are installed, however I am pretty sure some where at some point because a tee was installed on the line going to the FPR but was not plugged.

The engine has a rough idle, I am thinking it might have aftermarket cams, but not sure how to go about confirming it. It has a forge manual boost controller, a greddy bov, injen intake, 3" exhaust.

When I bought the car it was running like crap, and had the checkengine light on, which ended up being a missfire code and something about idle. The car would sputter and missfire around 5k+ rpms while driving. I lowered the boost and it seems to run much better. however the idle is rough and while at idle, if the engine dips below 1k the oil pressure light comes on. I was wondering if this is normal or should I be worried.

Given the info I already have, can anyone give me some advise for where I should start or continue? I want a fast evo like anyone else, but I don't want the car giving me any trouble.

thank for any input
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Old 09-30-2010, 03:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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if there is a tee in the fuel pressure reg line that is not capped that could be your whole bad idle issue. replace the hose, your actually lucky your car is running. your misfire code is commen in evos. how much boost was it running did you just turn down the mbc? Also with your bov it could be leaking inside from the diaphragm. Swap all fluids and go from there.

First step swap all fluids, second is to do a boost leak test and get a boost gauge!!!!!!! then take it to a reputable tuner/shop and get them to do a look over and see what exactly is done. take some pics inside/outside and undert the hood and post them. we may be able to see more mods.


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Old 10-07-2010, 05:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Car: 05 EVO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SicLanEvo View Post
if there is a tee in the fuel pressure reg line that is not capped that could be your whole bad idle issue. replace the hose, your actually lucky your car is running. your misfire code is commen in evos. how much boost was it running did you just turn down the mbc? Also with your bov it could be leaking inside from the diaphragm. Swap all fluids and go from there.

First step swap all fluids, second is to do a boost leak test and get a boost gauge!!!!!!! then take it to a reputable tuner/shop and get them to do a look over and see what exactly is done. take some pics inside/outside and undert the hood and post them. we may be able to see more mods.
I fixed the fuel pressure reg. line, car still has a lumpy idle. I noticed the injen intake has a small nipple that is not capped comming off of it, should this be connected to anything? its about the size of one of the vac lines and only 1/2 inch or so long.

I dont have a clue how much boost the car is running yet, working on getting a set of guages for the car that I like. But yes, i just turned the MBC down.

I changed the oil, it was black and thin as hell. I put in Mobil 10/30 synthetic, engine seems a little smoother and the oil light dont seen to come on as much and the engine is more stable at idle (i also cleaned the MAF) Planning on changing the oil pressure sending unit this weekend.

Could a vacuum leak cause my car to have a rough/lumpy idle? My car runs great while driving and lots of power. Also, I heard 05 evo's had a rev limiter while the car is not in motion. Is that true? I noticed my car can rev above 5k while not in motion, would that mean my car has been tuned?

would anyone advise against checking for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner? I just dont know any other way. lol

thanks for any help!
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Old 10-08-2010, 05:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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05 evos from the factory have the 5k launch control, if it was tuned, most people set theres at 6k so you build about 12-15psi off the line. A rough idle can def come from a vaccum leak. the nipple on your intake is sucking in ait and its not being metered so this can have a negative effect on the car, just cap it off. it would be used for the stock boost control lines which you dont have. Also post up some pics so i better know what we are dealing with. If you have a intake and the car is not tuned for that intake you can have a crappy idle since the maf has to be adjusted in the ecu for aftermarket intakes. get a boost gauge asap, also think about a oil pressure gauge because you keep getting that light. The oil light could be caused by extremely low/rough idle, you would see it if the car was starting to stall. As far as a vaccum leak do a boost leak test and go from there. Also depending on the bov condition and age this could be the issue. the diaphragms in the greddy bov's only last about a year from what I have seen, then they start to get a small hole that only causes more issures down the road.


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Old 10-10-2010, 06:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I replaced the Oil pressure sending unit yesterday, while I had it apart I also decided to clean the throttle body. I reassembled everything and the car started no problem but now my idle sits at 1500 while warm. I read on the forums some spring can cause the idle to be high if not seated properly, which spring would that be. Also, I was inspecting the idle speed control valve and noticed the plunger does not "plunge" very far. Is that normal?

Also looking for my camera to post some pics
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Old 10-10-2010, 07:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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here are a few pics





this pic shows a perrin crank pulley
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Old 10-11-2010, 06:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok it looks like the car is pretty dirty. you need to have the tune checked. the car has the whole injen intake and ic piping setup, this would require a tune to adjust the mafs in ecu so it idles and runs right. Your car needs to be looked over by a mechanice because it looks like its leaking something either oil or coolant in that crank pulley pic. you would want to take care of that asap. try to find a shop to do a boost leak test or do it yourself if you have the right tools.

How many miles are on this car?


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Old 10-11-2010, 10:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Unfortunatly where I live I don't think we have a tuner (montana) But I still need to see if it has been tuned. The car has just under 60k on it, and the carfax has the car being from VA, then North Dakota, then Montana. No accidents on record so thats good. I bought the car from a dealer with a purchased 2 year powertrain waranty.

I'm going to clean the car with some degreaser and get a boost leak check done this weekend. Who sells that intake air speed sensor thats located on the bottom of the throttle body? No local parts stores do, mitsubishi only part?
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Old 10-12-2010, 07:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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you mean the IAC (idle air control valve)? that would be mitsu only. they are about $300. Why do you think this is gone bad? take it out and clean it with some induction cleaner and see if it helps. mine lasted until 150k. With 60k on the clock was the t-belt service ever done? the leak underneath could be the water pump. def need to be cleaned and the leak traced.

If you think you need a IAC look around they can be had for about $75 used online.


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Old 10-12-2010, 08:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yea, the IAC. Here is the problem. Before I started working on my evo, the idle was rough as hell, and the oil light would come on and flicked when the rpms dropped below 1k. I changed the plugs, which didn't seem to help much, changed the oil, which sorta helped but the light still came on. I decided the oil pressure sending unit was next and changed it. Since I had the car that far apart, I decided to clean the throttle body. After everything was reassembled, the idle is now all over the place. (never dips below 1k, but the average idle is probably between 1300-1600, as compared to the 850-1000 before I "worked" on the car) Also, I have had the throttle stick on me a few times and I have noticed the engine does not decelerate as fast as I think it should which could be the TB seals?

The car has also started smoking at idle but not all the time, strange I know. I'm gonna take the intake side of the turbo off and check for oil and shaft play. ><

I really like evo's but this one might be a lemon.
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Old 10-15-2010, 05:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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So I pulled the codes today and came up with:
p0300 - Random/Multiple cylinder missfire -- no big deal
p0507 - Idle Control System RPM higher than expected
p0122 Throttle pedal position sensor/switch A circuit low input

sounds like IAC and TPS?
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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sound slike you need a tune also. Your TB shaft seals are def leaking, they leak from the factory. what plugs did you put in, this may be part of the issue too. clean both the TPS and IAC and see if it helps. heck clean out the throttle body with some induction cleaner. i dont think the car is a lemon, i think it was rode hard and put away wet...... parts were probably just slapped on it. what about your fuel pump? maybe test that and see if its working properly too


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Old 10-15-2010, 09:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yea I prob need a tune for sure. I put in the bpr7es copper plugs, didnt have the iridiums in stock here. I did clean the IAC, TPD and TB but ill clean em again. As far as my fuel pump is concerned, is the factory loud enough to hear when turning the car to the on position? mines kinda loud
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Just an update here. I purchased a cylinder compression tester and got some bad news. Cylinder 1, nearest the cam gears has 100 psi, other 3 have 120 psi. I did however find a tuner with alot of 4g6 experience but refuses to work on my car because he does not want to be liable for the car. He also said he does not want to tune it because it could lock the ecu? Somthing about a password to access another tuners tune...
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Old 12-09-2010, 06:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Have the tuner check the car over properly. You may already have a aftermarket fuel pump. order br7eix or bpr7eix iridum's asap. i gained 12whp with 4 boost leaks just by swapping from the coppers.

As far as locking the ecu from another tuner, if he is using ecuflash it should be fine because there is a test write. If you mess with the immobilizer code then yes it may not work. Some tuners lock the ecu so it can't be altered unless by them. it should still work after trying and failing to write to the ecu.


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