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Old 01-01-2007, 10:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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New To Your Evo??? Read Me

ALL INFORMATION IN THIS THREAD IS RELEVANT TO THE USDM EVOS ONLY!

Hello everyone. After some searching I have realized that this site is pretty young and still needs more input. However there is some good information that is spread out and I will try to compile it. Maybe this way when evo newbies (like myself) come on here we will know where to look for good basic information and less of the same questions will be asked. Make this a sticky so it will be at the top of the list and readily available. Some of the first questions addressed are coming from "Help us Build a Faq." Ludachris, you could either decided to leave this as its own thread or combine it with the other thread. Personally I think the title of this thread will draw in more of the newer tuners.

(Remember wisemen make any corrections necessary and feel free to add info)

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MODEL YEARS:
'03 AND '04 models- 271hp 273tq
  • Intercooler sprayer
    RS model available in '04 (Front LSD, aluminum roof, no ABS, no power features)

'05 models - 276hp 286tq
  • Active Center Differential (ACD) on all models
    Front LSD on all models
    Intercooler sprayer no longer available
    10.5 hotside on turbocharger
    MR model now available (aluminum roof, Bilstein Shocks, 17.74lb BBS charcoal grey multispoke rims, 6spd trans, vortex generators)
    RS still available
    Sun, Sound, Leather (SSL) model of base VIII available (subwoofer, power sunroof, leather seats, HIDs)
    No HIDs on base VIII

'06 models - 286hp 289tq
  • ACD still available
    MIVEC has been added (variable valve timing)
    Lighter Valve Cover
    Added larger compressor housing to same 16g turbo from 05
    Revised coolant passages in the head allowing for more boost/timing on pump gas
    Last model year to use the 4g63 engine
    SE models available as late year 06s (known as Evo 9.5s)
    Hollow camshafts

WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A USED EVO:
I just recently went through this so the experience is fresh in my mind. The first thing you should do is figure out which year you would like. The '03 is definately the cheapest so if money is an issue, you can start there. Next, if possible find the car with the accessories you would like with the lowest mileage possible. Obviously thats a given. Once you find a car to look at, look real closely at everything. Remember you would like to find one as stock as possible. Look at the radiator fins. Are they slightly bent; does it looks like someone has been playing around in there, maybe changing turbos and putting the stock one back on? Is the stock intake solid, or does it feel loose like it has been put on and off a few times? Check the oil, does it look fresh or is it low and black looking. How do the tires look? New tires especially for this car can be expensive and they are one of the key elements to how this car performs. How does the transmission shift? Naturally the tranny is a bit notchy but you can till what its supposed to feel like. How does the outside of the car look? If it has been neglected, most likely the rest of the car has been too. When driving the car, slam on the brakes. Does the wheel pulsate like the rotors are warped, or is it a smooth stop? And finally, one of the best things you can do. Take down the vin number and call Mitsubishi. Ask them what kind of warranty repairs have been made. One of the cars I looked at had about 6 different $800 to $3000 repairs all on different items on the car. That right there tells you one thing. The car has been driven hard and you dont want it. Also get a carfax report. Most dealerships (if thats where the car is) give a free one. If you have to buy one, its worth the money. Be very thorough and remember that you are spending a good amount of money here. Take your time. If something doesn't look right, ask about it. Good luck, and don't rush a purchase, its worth waiting a little while longer for a nice one.

WHERE YOU SHOULD BEGIN:
Congratulations on picking an evo. These cars have tons of potential and are relatively easier to modify versus some of the other similar performing cars out there. The first thing you need to do is understand your car. Get a feel for how the car is supposed to act before even thinking about modifying it. Be sure the car runs properly and all maintenance has been completed. If the car has over 20,000 to 30,000 miles on it, be sure to change all fluids also (brake, differential, transmission, transfer case just to name a few) and the spark plugs should be replaced also. Also keep in mind if you give a damn about the warranty. If so you can still lightly modify the car to the point where most of the stuff can be undone should you need to bring the car in for a warranty repair.

YOUR FIRST MODS:
After you have learned a little about how to handle the car and all of the maintenance has been done, you are ready for a little tweaking. Before you go thinking about shiney blow off valves and big exhaust tips, ask yourself what your goals are. If you only want a mid 12 second car, chances are you wont need to replace your blow off valve or your stock intercooler. Don't spend extra money if you don't have to. Do some research and find out what you need to reach your goal. Remember this site and most evotuners are interested in performance; isn't that why you decided to buy this car? A good place to start is to invest in mods that provide you with information. A boost gauge and data logger is crucial. Learn how the car acts when it is stock and what readings are normal for your car. This will help if you get stumped later on down the road. Then slowly work your way closer to your goal. There is no need to rush and don't try to reach your goal all at once. The more time and thought you put into mods, the less money you'll spend in the long run and you have a better chance at doing things right the first time.

HOW TO ASK QUESTIONS HERE AT EVOTUNERS:
This may seem silly but the majority of new tuners that ask questions do not ask the right questions. Search for your answer and put some time into it. Hopefully the majority of your questions will be answered here. Never "bench race." What I mean by that is trying to estimate how much power your car is making or what cars you can beat by saying what mods you have. There is simply no way of knowing unless you go out and do it first hand. Don't ask us if you can beat a corvette if you have intake and exhaust for example.

BASIC INFORMATION (Moderators and wisemen please answer these basic questions)

What engine does my car have?
All currently produced American market evo's have the 2.0 liter 4g63 turbo motor.

How much boost is my car running stock?It depends on the year:
03-04s run 19.5psi at 3500rpm, which tapers to 16psi by 6500rpm
05-06s run 20.3psi at 3500rpm, which tapers to 17psi by 6500rpm

How big is my stock turbo?
Evo's come with different variations of the 16g turbocharger:
03-04 = 16g6 with a 9.8cm^2 turbine housing
05 = 16g6 with a 10.5cm^2 turbine housing
06 = 16g6 with a 10.5cm^2 turbine housing and larger compressor housing

What is stock fuel pressure?
43psi with the vacuun hose off and plugged.

How much does fuel pressure increase when I am boosting?
1:1 = 1psi per 1psi

What size are the stock fuel injectors?
560cc

How big is the stock fuel pump?
03-05 = Same size as a Walbro GSS342, and flows [email protected]
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/f...pflowrates.htm
06 = Believed to be bigger than the 03-05s, but I don't know the actual flow rate (<-Warrtalon)

What is the max boost on pump gas I can run?
The best answer to this is that there is no answer, and it's frankly not a good question, though it's often asked. Octane is definitely the main determining factor for how much boost you can run, but there are still many other factors, such as the mods you have, the turbo you have (differs between years)

What will void my warranty?
Just about anything you do to the car that is not stock. Some people have reported that Mitsu voided their warranty when they changed to aftermarket rims (Mitsu claims that the aftermarket rims affect the drivetrain and hence the engine since the drivetrain is connected to the engine). Even something as simple as a grounding kit, aftermarket brake pads, or a catback exhaust may see your warranty voided. The sensitivity apparently varies from dealer to dealer, but generally speaking, there is a reason why so many are referred to as 'stealerships' who are ill-informed / ignorant of Evo mechanicals and use any reason to void your warranty.

The Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act was written to combat such practices, but since it requires you to hire a lawyer and pursue this in court with Mitsu over many months of fighting, most people don't even bother. It's worth it to at least mention the MMWA and have a copy of it in case you get denied warranty coverage, but don't expect them to honor it.

What kind of oil and weight do I use?
Look on your oil cap. The factory recommends Mobil One synthetic oil, 10w 30.

What fluid do I use in my transmission, transfer case and rear differential? How often do I change them?
OEM fluids only if you want to be safe. Many have tried aftermarket fluids only to come full circle back to the OEM fluids. Super DiaQueen for the transmission, DiaQueen LSD Oil for the transfer case and rear diff, and ATF III fluid for the ACD. All can be purchased at Mitsu or through Mitsubishiparts.net.

How much boost can my stock blow off valve hold? When do I need to upgrade?
03-05 = Efficient to 13psi, but the turbo runs 19-20psi stock, so the BOV still works, but it's not optimum. It's a good idea to upgrade to a PROPER RECIRCULATING BOV (actually called a DV = diverter valve) as soon as you up the boost. It is considered a stage 1 mod on 03-05 USDM Evos
06 = Efficient to 24-25psi. No need to upgrade until running more than 25psi (requires race gas or alky injection) on the stock turbo or until you upgrade the turbo.

What is an ecu flash? How do I get it?
In the old days where tuners did not have direct access to the factory ECU, the only ways to tune the ECU was by using a standalone ECU, a piggyback, or a series of devices that would fool the ECU by modifying variables such as AF, boost, etc. These days, with software such as ECUFlash (www.openecu.org), tuners can directly access the factory ECU and make changes that influence the performance of the car. ECUTek is another example of an ECU Flash tool. Custom tuning can be done for optimal gains, and mail-in flashes are available where mods are fairly simple (intake, TBE, etc). Al from Dynoflash and Jestr (John) of Jestr Tuning are tuners who are well known on various Evo boards who are familiar with ECU tuning. A Tactrix cable (www.tactrix.com) is required to connect software such as EvoScan (datalogger), ScanTech Generic OBD-II reader, and ECUFlash. It is basically a USB cable that connects to your car's OBD-II port.

EcuFlash Setup Instructions and Tutorial

When do I need to get an ecu flash?
You don't need a flash for EVERY mod, but you do need one for each mod that affects fuel or affects AFRs/timing.

Where is my ecu located?
The ECU is behind the glove box. It's very easy to get to and very easy to remove.

Does anyone use EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauges anymore?
Not as much. You see more newbies getting them just to fill out their cool new 3-gauge cluster than you do more experienced Evo owners/racers who rely more on their wideband o2, timing, and knock readings.

How much does my evo weigh?(These are of course approximations, but give or take, this is about it)
RS - 3217
GSR - 3263
MR - 3285
GSR w/ssl - 3338

-Tyler Van Donge

Last edited by Warrtalon; 03-14-2007 at 12:43 PM. Reason: added more info
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Old 01-02-2007, 12:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
Registered: Sep 2005
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Q. What size are the stock fuel injectors?
A. 560 cc

Q. How big is the stock fuel pump?
A. Same size as a Walbro GSS342, and flows 190lph

Q. What will void my warranty?
A. Just about anything you do to the car that is not stock. Some people have reported that Mitsu voided their warranty when they changed to aftermarket rims (Mitsu claims that the aftermarket rims affect the drivetrain and hence the engine since the drivetrain is connected to the engine). Even something as simple as a grounding kit, aftermarket brake pads, or a catback exhaust may see your warranty voided. The sensitivity apparently varies from dealer to dealer, but generally speaking, there is a reaso why so many are referred to as 'stealerships' who are ill-informed / ignorant of Evo mechanicals and use any reason to void your warranty

Q. How much boost can my stock blow off valve hold? When do I need to upgrade?
A. No one knows exactly for sure, but the numbers vary between 23 psi to 26 psi for the JDM MR BOV/DV. I am running a map that allows me to boost to 23 psi, and when I switched back to the stock JDM MR DV, I hit some CELs that wouldn't go away until I switched back to my GReddy Type-RS BOV. I am still investigating the cause of this problem to see if it caused by the switch between the JDM MR DV and the GReddy unit. When running boost levels above 22 psi, it seems to be a good idea (IMHO) to invest in an aftermarket DV/BOV. On hindsight, I should have bought the Forge RS unit right off the bat and not the GReddy. With the GReddy (and probably any good DV/BOV), the turbo spooled more quickly, but I cannot explain why.

Q. What is an ecu flash? How do I get it?
A. In the old days where tuners did not have direct access to the factory ECU, the only ways to tune the ECU was by using a standalone ECU, a piggyback, or a series of devices that would fool the ECU by modifying variables such as AF, boost, etc. These days, with software such as ECUFlash (www.openecu.org), tuners can directly access the factory ECU and make changes that influence the performance of the car. ECUTek is another example of an ECU Flash tool. Custom tuning can be done for optimal gains, and mail-in flashes are available where mods are fairly simple (intake, TBE, etc). Al from Dynoflash and Jestr (John) of Jestr Tuning (www.jestrtuning.com) are tuners who are well known on various Evo boards who are familiar with ECU tuning. A Tactrix cable is required to connect software such as EvoScan (datalogger), ScanTech Generic OBD-II reader, and ECUFlash. It is basically a USB cable that connects to your car's OBD-II port.

Last edited by Warrtalon; 01-02-2007 at 01:31 PM. Reason: Removed one URL
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Old 01-02-2007, 01:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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He has the stock plastic BOV, so his only is efficient up to 13psi. The JDM MR DV is the absolute best choice up to 25psi. Ghoonk, I don't know what caused your problem with the CEL, but the MR DV does not do that in normal situations, and it does not have a limit of 22psi or anything.

In reference to EcuFlash, review my tutorial:

EcuFlash Setup Instructions and Tutorial





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Old 01-02-2007, 01:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Thanks, Warr. I noticed several things when I changed back to the stock airbox and JDM DV

1. turbo whine and intake flutter less prominent (obviously)
2. boost response slower
3. boost spike was lower by 1 to 2 psi, taper was also lower
4. exhaust sounded less loud
5. smoother to drive

In short, my Evo felt like it had its nuts cut off. No regrets going back to the HPI cone air intake and the GReddy - the car pulls harder and sounds more aggressive.

Warr, from your experience, could the tune have been set up in a way that required the cone air intake? I'm thinking that is unlikely, but I know little about tuning.

And yes, all hoses were tight
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Old 01-02-2007, 01:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Good job 98autogstspyder.



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Old 01-02-2007, 01:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Larry, feel free to make edits above. I've already made a ton of edits and additions to move it along, but it was definitely a great job by spyder to get it started.





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Old 01-02-2007, 01:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghoonk View Post
Thanks, Warr. I noticed several things when I changed back to the stock airbox and JDM DV

1. turbo whine and intake flutter less prominent (obviously)
2. boost response slower
3. boost spike was lower by 1 to 2 psi, taper was also lower
4. exhaust sounded less loud
5. smoother to drive

In short, my Evo felt like it had its nuts cut off. No regrets going back to the HPI cone air intake and the GReddy - the car pulls harder and sounds more aggressive.

Warr, from your experience, could the tune have been set up in a way that required the cone air intake? I'm thinking that is unlikely, but I know little about tuning.
And yes, all hoses were tight
Oh hell yes. You CANNOT add (or remove) an intake if you're tuned for the opposite situation. We always tell people not to even touch their stock intake unless they plan to get tuned immediately. Likewise, if you are tuned for an intake, switching to the stock box will throw everything off. Cone intakes make a big difference in ariflow across the MAF, so the tune has to be adjusted quite a bit. Also, MAF pipes (intake-to-turbo) make a big difference, so something like the Injen is going to require a much different tune profile than a stock airbox with stock MAF hose.





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Old 01-02-2007, 06:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Good info, I just picked up my IX and this is some nice little background on the car that you don't really get at the dealer.

To add to this, (and if I'm wrong will a mod please edit it) I have red that one of the first things you should do is a boost leak test, as the cars may come from the factory without all the clamps tightened enough and as always who the hell knows with a used car . Maybe some free ponies that weren't there during the test drive .
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Old 01-02-2007, 07:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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I know that problem all to well here is a link that should help:


http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

You are correct in that one of the first things to do is a boost leak test because there will be leaks. Also T-bolt clamps keep everything sealed tight compared to your standard hose clamps.

Jared
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Old 01-02-2007, 07:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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I agree on doing a boost leak test with a USED Evo, but not so much with a brand new Evo. It is not common for a pristine, untouched Evo to have boost leaks. It mainly happens when people start modding and taking things apart. I had no boost leaks on my car when it was stock, but then I had 5 after installing an MBC, BOV, etc. I have also tested multiple stock IXs that were rock solid to 25psi (I didn't go higher), and the stock aluminum DV held, too.





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Old 01-03-2007, 08:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Moderators thanks for the help.
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Old 01-06-2007, 07:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Found this link and thought it had some info worth sharing for those that want to know the basics about their car.

http://209.85.165.104/search?q=cache...s&ct=clnk&cd=9

Questions I think should be included:

What diameter is the stock exhaust?

I have read 2.5", 2.25" and just under 2.5" on this forum alone

also is the exhaust the same diameter on the IX as on the VIII?

couldn't find an answer on this one
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warrtalon View Post
I agree on doing a boost leak test with a USED Evo, but not so much with a brand new Evo. It is not common for a pristine, untouched Evo to have boost leaks. It mainly happens when people start modding and taking things apart. I had no boost leaks on my car when it was stock, but then I had 5 after installing an MBC, BOV, etc. I have also tested multiple stock IXs that were rock solid to 25psi (I didn't go higher), and the stock aluminum DV held, too.
Warr, is there a how-to guide on how to do boost leak tests?
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:51 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
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http://vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html





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Old 03-13-2007, 10:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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I know the 03s also had Hollow Cams.
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