This is not a full installation guide on the ZT-2. Because I am just using it as a boost gauge, I just needed to power the zt-2 up and wire the Boost sensor to the ZT-2 wiring harness. I have also included some basic information on widebands which I have taken from a write-up I made for installing the ZT-2 into a 2gnt which is posted on 2gnt.com. This guide can also be used for anyone installing an aftermarket boost gauge
Because of the internal circuitry used in a wideband oxygen sensor, you cant hook up a voltmeter or oscilloscope to read the sensors output directly. A wideband O2 sensor produces a current signal that varies not only in amplitude but direction. That makes it quite different from a conventional oxygen sensor that produces a voltage signal that bounces back and forth between 0.1 and 0.9 volts.
With a wideband oxygen sensor and gauge, you can read the actual air/fuel ratio, and to check the sensors response to changes that should cause a change in the air/fuel ratio. Opening the throttle wide, for example, traditionally causes a sudden and brief lean condition followed by a richer mixture as the computer compensates. But with the new control strategies made possible with wideband O2 sensors, the air/fuel ratio remains steady when the throttle is snapped open.
The diagnostic strategies for wideband O2 sensors vary from one vehicle manufacturer to another but, as a rule, youll get an oxygen sensor code if the sensor reads out of its normal range, if the readings dont make sense to the computer (should indicate lean when lean conditions exist, etc.) or if the heater circuit fails. Being that on 2gnts a wideband is an aftermarket addition, which is not controlled and monitored by the existing ECU you will not throw a code unless replacing your stock O2 sensor with the wideband without hooking up the simulated Narrowband output.
One thing to keep in mind about wideband O2 sensors is that they can be fooled in the same way as a conventional oxygen sensor by air leaks between the exhaust manifold and head, and by misfires that allow unburned oxygen to pass through into the exhaust. Either will cause the sensor to indicate a false lean condition which, in turn, will cause the computer to make the engine run rich.
Another thing to remember, is although most of the Widebands on the market have a simulated narrowband output. This is so that you can put the wideband sensor in the place of the front o2 Sensor. However, people seem to have problems using the narrowband simulation input with our ECUs so it is recommended that you just get another bung welded into your downpipe and prevent any future problems.
What you get
The Zeitronix ZT-2 kit includes virtually everything you will need to install and use your wideband. I say virtually, because unless if youre replacing your stock oxygen sensor with the wideband sensor, you will need to purchase a bung from either zeitronix or a muffler shop to screw the sensor into in your exhaust. (You can also just get a nut with the same threads and weld that onto your downpipe) Also, the ZT-2 kit is the basics, there are many additional options you can purchase which can run the price of your unit way up, but starting at $279 + $12 shipping its a great bang for your buck. I purchased this back in November for my 2gnt. In order to use it as I wanted in the Evo, I also purchased the boost sensor, LCD display, and an extra wiring harness.
Wiring, what goes where**
This has been left generalized as the ECU pinouts are different between the VIII's and IX's
Evo 8 -- http://roadraceengineering.com/evo/t...-ecuwiring.htm
Evo 9 -- http://www.ttp-engineering.com/TTP.IX.ecu.pdf
Pin # Color Function Vehicle Install
1 Red Switched Power (ex. ignition
) Cigarette Lighter Power
2 White Wideband Analog Output Option
3 Green RPM Input 0-12v square wave
4 Orange Boost Sensor Input - Green Boost sensor Wire
5 EMPTY NOT USED NOT USED
6 Yellow Boost Sensor - Red Boost sensor Wire
7 Black Power Ground - Chassis Ground.
8 Brown Sensor Ground (EMS ground reference)
9 Purple Simultated Narrowband O2 Output
10 Grey Throttle Position Sensor
11 Brown Sensor Ground (Boost Sensor ground reference) - Goes to Black Boost sensor wire
12 Blue User Input 0-5V Misc Input
Now that you know what goes where, youre ready to get started, keep in mind that this is something you dont want to have to fool with after installing, so do it right the first time and either solder or use crimp connectors on all your wiring. Dont just twist some wires together and wrap with electrical tape, eventually you will have to fix it.
Where to Install
This is basically up to you. It is a small unit that can fit many places nicely. I decided to place mine inside the center console velcro'd to the top of the storage bin where the OEM boost gauge package goes. To do this just unscrew the two screws that hold the storage compartment in place. Once the screws are removed a little tug downward and the piece will bend down you can then pull out to completely remove it.
I completely removed it as I had to drill a small hole in the back of the compartment to run the wire from the display through to the ZT-2 brain because of where I installed the display. Ok here's a really easy part. Get some velcro that is sticky on each side, put a small strip on the top of the compartment you removed and then the other side to the bottom of the ZT-2. (Hint: I found that the zt-2 did not fit when mounted center/left on the top of the compartment, however, off-set to the right, although still a tight fit, does seem to work.
I chose to install the unit where I did because it is easily accessible when I want to remove it, and it is also located close to where I mounted the display.
Now that you know where you want to place the unit (and the display if you opted to get that also) its time to start. You must also decide how you want to run your wiring and the harness for the sensor. You can go through the hole in the firewall on the passenger side, you can make a hole in the boot for the steering column, or you can drill another hole through the firewall (be careful doing this and double check where you are drilling)
I decided to go through the hole in the firewall. There is a grommet in the firewall that is used for the stock boost gauge package. If you don't have the stock gauges, then this grommet will just be plugging the hole. To access the grommet, you first have to remove the glove box. This is simple yet still took me a couple minutes to figure out
Anyways after opening the glove box, look at the left stopper. This stopper is not physically part of the glove box. Push from the outside into the glove box to pop it out of place, now slide the glove box to the left to get the right stopper past and then open the glove box down all the way until you can pop it out.
With the glove box out of the way, now pop your hood and go look behind the passenger side strut tower. You will see a rubber grommet way back there. Manuever your hand in however you can and push on the grommet until it pops through the firewall and into the cabin. Retrieve the grommet and drill a hole in it. You have to make sure the hole is large enough to fit whatever you're sticking through it through it. In the case of the zeitronix boost sensor, there are three wires that must run from the zt-2 to the boost sensor, so I drilled the hole large enough to fit these 3 wires. For a mechanical boost gauge, the hole just needs to be large enough for whatever vaccuum hose is supplied with the gauge.
Interior view of wires running through the grommet:
Wires coming into the Engine compartment:
So now with whatever you are running through the firewall run through the grommet, you must get wires/vac line through the hole. I took a metal coat hanger and stuck it through the hole from the engine compartment and pulled it through the inside, taped the wires to it and pulled it back out through the hole. That part's kind of annoying, but now it's onto the part that is a huge PITA. You have to get the grommet back into place
Good luck, it's basically impossible to get your hand back there and even if you can it's a very awkward angle. You need something somewhat long and skinny that is sturdy to push the grommet into place. After a few failed attempts I decided to use the top piece to my pool cue. Well that worked great aside from first shoving the grommet all the way through the firewall, losing the tip to the cue and scratching the hell out of the cue (
at me) Fortunately I don't play too often anymore. After a few minutes of cursing at the car, I shoved the grommet back through the firewall (not easy) and once again used the cue to try and get the grommet back into place. After a few more minutes I was successful in my quest and was able to continue the rest of the install.
Before you start anything, disconnect your battery. For the two seconds it takes to do, its worth knowing youre not going to break anything or shock yourself. I won't lie I didn't do it.
Ok, well I had already soldered wires to the wiring harness for the zt-2, one for power, one for ground, and the 3 for the boost sensor. Power and ground stayed inside the car the three for the boost sensor were the wires I ran through the grommet. If you are using the other features (i.e. tps, rpms, etc., solder wire for those to the zt-2 harness also.
Power wire. I refused to cut into any of the stock wiring on my brand new 30k car being this is the most expensive thing I have ever purchased/owned. Again, because I am not using the zt-2 to tune I opted for a cheaper alternative here. You can use (in ascending price order) fuse taps, an add-a-fuse, a turbo timer harness, or a jumper harness for the ECU. I purchased a turbo timer harness from Extremepsi.com, you can get the ECU harnesses or tt harness from RRE or a number of other vendors. I wasn't sure how well the other two options would work so I avoided them (oh and the one add-a-fuse I found in stock at a parts store was $22.50, that was as much as my TT harness shipped
TT Harness install
To install the turbo timer harness, you have to take apart the bottom portion of the dash. This is about as straight forward as removing the center storage bin, a couple of screws not too hidden from view and a few tugs, and then 3 screws that hold the top and bottom steering column covers together. Once you get the bottom portion of the dash popped out (you don't have to completely remove it) and the bottom steering column cover removed, you will be able to spot the ignition harness on the left underside of the steering column. Unplug the harness and install the TT harness in between. Now on the 3rd side of the TT harness that you would use to plug into a turbo timer, there are also 3 other wires coming off of the plug, Red, Green, and white. Apparently red is a constant power source, so you have to connect the zt-2 power wire to the green wire on the TT harness. (BTW this is with a blitz harness, but they should all basically be the same.)
Taking apart the dash:
Wires from TT harness:
Ground Wire. I soldered the ground wire to a spade connector, found a bolt under the dash, loosened the bolt, shoved the spade connector in and then tightened the bolt back up. At this point, you can now check to see if you have power by turning the key to the on position. Check your display to see if it's powered up, if so continue. If not check all your connections again.
Boost sensor Wires. Now you have to connect the wires that you ran through the firewall to the boost sensor harness. The wires go as described above in the "What goes where" section. I tried using the quick connect terminals but to no avail. These guys just plain sucked. I wanted to use them so I could remove the boost sensor and swap to the DSM in just a few seconds, but when I crimped the wires to the connectors then plugged them together and turned the car on to test the boost sensor I got nothing. Thinking I may have switched the wires, I went to pull the connectors apart and they basically just fell apart in my hand. They fit together too tightly and so the wires that were crimped to them ripped out. In frustration I ended up just soldering the wires together, but have a solution to be able to do what I want in the near future.
Ok the boost sensor is fairly simple to install. Attach the supplied nipple to the boost sensor using a 13mm and 15mm wrench and then, you just need to get yourself a vaccuum T and a couple inches of vaccuum hose. ~$2-3 from your local parts store. There's a vaccuum line on the left side (passenger) of the intake manifold that travels a few inches over for the FPR. Cut this line, install your T and install your boost sensor. I used zipties on all connections to the T.
Boost sensor installed:
I didn't do this part on the Evo so this is a bit of a combination of what I did with the DSM and what I have read for installing on an Evo...
Since the recommended installation is at least 16 inches away from the turbo and before the catalytic converter, I opted to put the bung in my test pipe since I dont have a cat, no biggie. The sensor must be facing up to prevent damage unlike the way your stock narrowband is, therefore it is recommended it is installed between 10-2.
Put the car up on either jack stands or ramps, I used ramps b/c I prefer them.
Then crawl under with a marker and sensor and decide where you want to place it, then mark the pipe.
Remove either the downpipe or testpipe.
Next step is drilling the hole, I went to do this and much to my surprise, I dont have any bits large enough, doh. I make the hole as large as I can with the bits I have then send it off to work with my father. I get a call a little while later that its done. He used a drill press then welded in the bung for me, sweet!
Ok, now you may want to screw the sensor into the pipe before reinstalling it. I made the mistake of opting to not do this, but it wasnt a big deal.
I put the test pipe back on and then went to install the o2 sensor, doh its a tight fit so I needed to loosen up the test pipe before I could get the sensor in. I didnt have to take it off however or even remove any of the bolts including those on the custom (i.e. ghetto) exhaust hanger Aside from that the whole thing was a snap, thanks in part to my huge oil leak which has kept the bolts in a nice lubricated unfrozen state, lol.
Plug in the o2 sensor harness to the o2 sensor, zip tie it in place underneath and run the other end of harness into the car through your choice of location. Because I will be using this on multiple cars, I just pulled mine up the side and through the passenger window. For Evo's, I have read that there is another grommet under the carpeting that you can run the sensor through. A quick search should find it for you pretty quickly. Plug the harness into the controller put the dash parts back together, and you are done. Now its time to plug in your laptop or your display and start monitoring/logging....
People have installed their displays in several places, I chose anunconventional place to put mine, in the storage compartment above the shifter. The display is slightly smaller in size the size of the inside of the compartment, so with the help of a little more velcro, I have it snug in place where I want it. I have noticed some glare on the gauge sometimes during the day, but at night there are never any problems and the amount of glare isn't enough for me to want to move where I have it.
Drivers view of the display:
13mm & 15mm wrenches for installing supplied nipple to boost sensor, soldering iron, electrical tape, drill, wire strippers, miscellaneous wrenches/sockets if installing O2 sensor.
*Information provided by: forparts.com