GSC 272 cams and drivability - Page 2 - Mitsubishi Evolution Forums: Mitsubishi Lancer Forum
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Old 02-14-2008, 03:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
Registered: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
Reputation: 03silvaevo is an unknown
I have Tactrix cable and ECU flash. But my tuner(Ivey Tune) usually scrambles his map and I can't change any values. I guess he's just protecting his work. How do you go about unscrambling the map?

I did something out of the blue yesterday. I swapped my crushed MR diverter valve for the stock plastic piece and holy crap not once did I stall in normal driving. I didn't touch or adjust anything on the car. I didn't have to apply as much throttle taking off in first gear. For some reason Idle is steady now around 1000-1100 rpm with no up and down fluctuations. Even driving slow in traffic in 1st gear is smooth without the car jerking or bucking if you will. Is there something wrong with the crushed MR valve I have? I did get it used from a friend 3 years ago. Its weird that this is happening that the car is driving the way I want it to because of a diverter valve swap.

Oh yeah forgot to add the cars been throwing PO172 codes at idle. Don't know if that has to do with fuel trims needing to be adjusted? I'm gonna let my tuner work on that.
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Old 02-14-2008, 03:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
Registered: May 2007
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There are so many things that can cause a P0172 code. Check for any oil/water leaks around the head, check for proper gap on your plugs, make sure all your couplers are tight and fill up at a different gas station next time. If none of those things are causing your issue then I'd look into the tune.
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Old 02-14-2008, 06:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
Registered: Jan 2007
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Just put in new plugs 2 days ago. Found no oil/water around the head. Its gotta be the tune
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:27 AM   #19 (permalink)
 
Registered: Aug 2006
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I have the GSC 272/272 combo and I've had no issues worthwhile. The only noteable difference is when I come to a stop, there's a feeling that I might stall because I drop to around 900 and then it settles between 1100-1200. I was concerned at first but after about a week, I consider it pretty normal now.
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Old 02-18-2008, 10:13 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
Registered: Jan 2007
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Reputation: 03silvaevo is an unknown
pure evo, have you noticed that your car like to stall after shifting in reverse then back to neutral? Mine always does it even after revving in neutral.
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Old 02-18-2008, 07:42 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
Registered: Aug 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03silvaevo View Post
pure evo, have you noticed that your car like to stall after shifting in reverse then back to neutral? Mine always does it even after revving in neutral.
Nah, bro. I've never had this happen to me. Like I said, I have my idle set at 1100 or so (I can't remember the exact setting) using ECUFlash.
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Old 02-20-2008, 09:42 AM   #22 (permalink)
 
Registered: Jul 2005
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Well, hopefully it was just your diverter valve, I knew something wasn't right from the way you described your issue because most people can't even tell that I have cams, and comparatively the 272s are pretty aggressive for a stock turbo, I know that 272's where considered kind of extreme for dsm's when I was into talons/eclipses but the only people who can tell I have cams from the idle/noise are other evo owners.

If you want to try my rom file let me know, I can send it to you if you want to pull yours and see if mine runs better at low rpm, although I wouldn't drive the car under boost with my tune it should let you know if you need further tuning depending on how it behaves as my tune has the idle and low rpm driving really dialed in for stock injectors. Even if it is scrambled you should be able pull your tune off the ecu and save it, install mine to test, and then reflash yours back in there although you might have to edit my file with your car id code for it to load in your ecu.
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Old 02-24-2008, 06:49 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
Registered: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
Reputation: 03silvaevo is an unknown
Its drivable again!

After getting my car back the car is drivable again! My tuner did a lot of diagnosing(boost and vac leaks, came timing, new plugs, and all is good) and it all came down to a bad set of cams(GSC 272/272 not S1) that I bought from a forum member. He said something about the cams having a bad grind or something was off center.Thats also whats causing the weird up and down idle when car is cold. When its cold I could tell the engine is shaking and it happens for a few seconds. Then idle shoots up to 2k rpm and back down to 1000. Soon as its warmed up idle is a steady blop blop blop blop blop which is good. Idle when warm is 1100 rpm which is fine with me. So he advised me that I should get another set of cams. This time I'll just get the S1's and be done with it.
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