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Bolt-On Power Mods Intake, exhaust, intake manifold, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc.

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Old 02-09-2007, 12:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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I would not mess with cam gears unless you know how you want to set them (they do nothing unless set to specific negative or positive degree settings) and can get custom tuned for it. 272s work great just as they are...

Al could help you if you wanted to get the cam gears and setup them to something special, but the most common setting for 272s that I have seen is -4/-1, which is built to maximize TOP END at the expense of low-end. I don't think that's what you want.





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Old 02-09-2007, 09:42 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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So warr, the cams i got weren't used at all brand new in the box, since he was running 272's on his old evo, but sold it. The 280's were supposed to be for an upgrade gt35 but since he sold the car he didn't need the cams. I've read a good setup for the camgears would be +1/-1. What do you think warr? I'm planning on getting a 20g from FP or a 50trim this summer so i didn't want to end up buying 272's and regretting it.
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Don't guess at cam gear settings. When you can, get on a dyno to dial them in.



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Old 02-09-2007, 11:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Yeah, don't randomly set cam gear settings based off what you've heard. You have to verify that the cam gear changes you make actually improve the powerband.





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Old 02-10-2007, 10:24 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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No dyno access here. It belongs to the school. Probably going to go w/ a fellow evo owner and do it on the road possibly. Also flash after the install.
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Old 02-10-2007, 10:55 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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There are a bunch of dynos in the Pacific Northwest unless you're on an island or something.





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Old 02-12-2007, 06:48 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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Haha i'm in Alaska. Only two dynos here, one is for fw/rw and the other is a Mustang that belongs to the school. They don't rent it out, only for the students/staff. Just going to do it on the road w/ a buddy of mine who owns a evo. Thanks guys for the feedback.
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Old 02-12-2007, 07:20 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
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Yeah, that's what you'd call P A C I F I C NORTHWEST, haha. I was thinking continental US.





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Old 02-16-2007, 11:05 AM   #24 (permalink)
 
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Warr, do you think it is wise to upgrade my valve springs and retainers at the same time or will the stockers hold up? I'm getting the FP 20g9lt this week for 1300 then credited back so. I'm thinking of either 680's or 780's for injectors. Want to get the right size so in case i ever decide to upgrade down the road i'll be able to. Also do i really need to upgrade the uicp? Thought it was mainly for looks. Plus i already have all the supporting mods, i was either going to grab a buddies 9 turbo or the FP, but since the FP is such a great deal i'm going that route instead.
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Old 02-16-2007, 11:20 AM   #25 (permalink)
 
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I do think it's wise to get injectors with that turbo, but neither 680s nor 780s will be useful down the road if you do a large turbo upgrade. You might want to consider 880s so that at least you can get away without doing injectors again if you do a GT35R or less. Most people use 1000cc injectors for the GT35R, but you can get away with 880s if you use alky or meth injection.

I do think you should go ahead and do some nice springs/retainers with the 280s. They are fairly cheap anyway.

Yes, by now with all these mods, I'd do a complete upgrade to the IC system to include the licp, FMIC, and UICP. It's mainly for looks on stockish Evos, but there comes a time where it becomes a restriction. Now is the time...





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Old 02-16-2007, 11:39 AM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Thanks warr, i'm planning on grabbing a buddies used Buschur FMIC, will i need the batter kit though for the uicp? I've got my Nisei licp on right now, so probably going to grab the whole setup from my buddy. So you think i should pass on the injector upgrade? I doubt i'll be upgrading to a 35r or even a 50trim anytime soon. Where's a good place to get some springs/retainers? I'm thinking either Buschur or AMS.
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Old 02-16-2007, 12:32 PM   #27 (permalink)
 
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If you get the BR UICP, then yes, you will need a mini battery, because the BR UICP is very straight.

I didn't say you could pass on the injector upgrade - read again what I wrote.





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Old 02-16-2007, 02:25 PM   #28 (permalink)
 
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Well just got off the phone w/FP they suggest at least 680's to run the 20g, but yeah i read it again and get what you're saying. Do you know of any brand of uicp that doesn't require the small batter kit? Also i thought the Buschur pipes also needed to run an open air filter not the stock box. Maybe that was AMS. I want to retain the stock airbox for sure though.
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Old 02-16-2007, 02:38 PM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Well, there-in lies the problem. A good UICP will increase performance by removing as many bends and as much distance as possible. To do that, you make it straight, which gets in the way of the stock battery and stock intake. If you get a UICP that goes around the stock airbox and stock battery, then you end up with basically a stock UICP that has no silicone sections. A little better? Maybe, but not worth the expense.

If you're going to keep the stock intake, then I wouldn't worry much about the UICP. I didn't know you were doing that when I first suggested the IC piping...





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Old 03-07-2007, 03:32 AM   #30 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbolarry View Post
Don't guess at cam gear settings. When you can, get on a dyno to dial them in.
How would one dial them in? I'm getting a dyno done this weekend and will post some results. Hope you guys can advise on HOW (rather than what settings) advancing and retarding the cam gears affect the powerband
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