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Old 03-28-2007, 08:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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tentative mod path

hey fellas well i am getting closer and closer to buying an evo :crosses fingers: and i have a few questions.

first off i plan to stay stock for this autox season to learn the cars habits and to control it.

eventualy i want to switch the car to completely a drag car and switch to a better car for autox (5-6 years from now) and shoot for low 10s or high 9s. built motor for sure :thumbs:


my goal by this time next year is 350 awhp and >360 awtq

my basic mod plans are
HKS hi-power cbe
dc sports dp <--it replaces the cat as well
bruschur intake+maf pipe
breather filter
255 fp
fidenza cam gears
crower 272/272 cams
profec b sec 2
JDM MR DV/forge
o2 housing buschur/ebay
ss brake and clutchline
shortshifter+bushings
lm-1 wbo2
buschur UICP + LICP
buschur mini battery
60mm upper dash gauge relocation
radio relocation
im planning on prosport 60mm boost/oil press/hopefully they will have the oil temp availible otherwise it will be water temp

do you have to pull the heads to swap the cams. some cars you do some cars you dont and im not sure about the evo if you do while im in there
cometic head gasket
ARP head studs

i figure it can all be done for <$3000 because i will install it all.
hopefully i can get it on a dyno instead of a mail in flash. does anyone know any good shops that will use the tactrix cable in cali/oregon.
the tune will be the only part that may put me over the $3000 mark.
i will use evo scan to do logs.
im considering using the SAFC 2 so i could tweak the tune for race gas at the track.
i was thinking of doing meth/alky for the street. whats a good kit?

i run everything so im trying to get a happy medium, autox, drag and next year time trials/open track days.

im hoping to run low 11s in the 1/4 with no turbo swap for the time being.

any advice fellas?
this is just tentative. it would be installed over the course of the winter not all at once.

btw anyone in or close to reno we are building a garage at my house with full air tools and a lift so if you have any work you want done or want to do or just want to tinker or hang out and talk cars let me know

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Old 03-28-2007, 08:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Before I get into details, I need to know what year Evo you're getting. Also, if you're not doing anything for a year, I don't think it's necessary to be worrying about it so soon. People have a tendency of getting too excited and doing this before even getting their car. It's not really important or necessary, because plans may change a year from now, and there will be other parts available on the market as well as more data for parts already listed.





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Old 03-28-2007, 09:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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im leaning towards the 05 VIII.

i know i probably wont stick to this path im just the type of person who likes to do stuff like this to get the wheels turning in my head from recomendations on my ideas.
i constantly think of new ideas that i can do with my car because its my passion i constantly think about it. its kinda funny im in hs and kids constantly come to me asking what they should do to their cars and asking me to work on their cars.

also knowing me i wont last a year i will start modding it like halfway through the summer because i run in the novice class we have in autox so your mods dont count and theres no points/places. its a season of learning for me.
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Old 03-28-2007, 09:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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1) Ok, with an VIII, things are much different. A IX can make much more power with less mods while on the stock turbo.

2) The likelihood of running low 11s on an 05 with the stock turbo are slim-to-none. The only ones that have done it were gutted or using nitromethane.

3) The way you describe the autox novice class, it means you won't be doing SCCA. What sanctioning body will you be autocrossing with? The reason I ask is because even if mods don't count against you in novice class this year, you may end up in a class you don't want to be in next year. You should plan your mods according to the class you want to compete in next year or even later this year if you feel you get the hang of it. If you don't care whether or not your car is competitive in its class, then mod away happily.





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Old 03-28-2007, 09:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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it is SCCA its just not a judged class if you will. it counts for nothing. it just allows people to go out and learn. im not really concerned with my class im not trying to win anything just to have some fun. IIRC the mods i mentioned would put me in street mod but i may be wrong.

forgetting about classing and what not do the mods that i talked about make sense? would you add or take away anything? i dont really want to be replacing a ton of parts if i go to a gt30r/35r later on down the road.

how high can the stock engine rev to?
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Old 04-12-2007, 09:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I didn't think the Hks High power exhaust was a true 3 inch exhaust. Id swap that out with a Buschur exhaust or something else.
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Old 04-12-2007, 12:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostinpsi View Post
it is SCCA its just not a judged class if you will. it counts for nothing. it just allows people to go out and learn. im not really concerned with my class im not trying to win anything just to have some fun. IIRC the mods i mentioned would put me in street mod but i may be wrong.

forgetting about classing and what not do the mods that i talked about make sense? would you add or take away anything? i dont really want to be replacing a ton of parts if i go to a gt30r/35r later on down the road.

how high can the stock engine rev to?
Ok, well in my region of SCCA, the Novice class DOES count, and it is based completely off your base class. You still have to choose AS, STU, BSP, or SM, because that determines your index. Then, your time is multiplied by the class index to get your Novice index score. Lastly, all novices are compared based off their index score as opposed to being compared with the non-Novices in their base class.

We show a full report each event for Novices showing how they finished, and then we crown the "Novice of the Year" based on which Novice has the most cumulative points at the end of the year. Last year, I was a Novice and finished 2nd overall after blowing it in an event where I had to co-drive a FWD GTI while my Evo was down. If not for that, I would have been Novice of the Year and finished 2nd in SM. Instead, I finished 2nd in Novice and 3rd in SM. So, all that being said, be sure you mod according to the class you want to be in for SCCA.

As for the mod list:

- HKS hi-power is a poor choice
- DC DP is ok if you don't ever need to swap in the stock cat
- no need for a MAF pipe
- only get cam gears if you have a specific use for them, since they do nothing in and of themselves. If you know where you're going to set them specific to your cams, then they might be useful
- Crower cams are not proven yet; they're just the cheapest
- EBC if you must, but a nice $85 MBC works wonders
- SAFC is a no-go; you will just use EcuFlash, which allows you to have as many maps as you want for any occasion. If you plan to use EvoScan, then you'll also use EcuFlash, because it uses the same cable and laptop

Anything I didn't mention is something I agree with as a good mod.

You don't have to remove the head to do cams.

As mentioned above, low 11s are not feasible.





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Old 04-12-2007, 09:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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yea definatly changed my mind on the above path just like you said warr.
this one is pretty set in stone though because of deals with my dad and what not. i pay for all of it but i have to show him a budget plan including parts and prices and what not.

ebay TBE. <-- had it on my rex and loved it. I was goignt o go with the megan but i read somewhere i think you posted it warr that the megan is the same as the ebay one. if i went the with the megan i would get a differnt test pipe to maintin 3" all the way back instead of the megan resonated 2.5 pipe

forge mbc
walburo 255l
forge bov or possibly the aps bov
buschur cone filter
prosport 60mm boost, oil pressure, oil temp
radio relocation
eflash

thats all by the end of this summer then this winter i plan on:


megan racing track coilovers
falken rt 615s 255/40/17
exedy organic clutch +gruppes flywheel combo OR excedy cerametallic clutch+gruppes flywheel combo. which would you go for i dont have the cash for a full twin disk setup.
at 60k miles i plan on PE kevlar timing and balanceshaft belts

then depending on my finacial situation
cams probably GSC 272s or 280s
snow performance alky injection w/ failsafe

with those if i had to choose between the two i would go with the alky and then get tuned for pump gas, pumpgas plus alky @ 27 psi, racegas @ 29 psi.

not sure what i was thinking taling about low 11s on the stock turbo haha but i would like to hopefully break into the high 11s with race gas. id be happy with an 11.9 im not counting on it at 5000 feet though.

if i missed anything let me know please.
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Old 04-13-2007, 07:25 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Not much to change now.

- It's Walbro, fyi
- Definitely the Forge RS DV over the APS. The Forge allows you to adjust according to boost level while the APS allows you to adjust according to rice level (% VTA). The Forge is strictly performance, but in conjunction with the Buschur intake, it will be loud as hell. I know, because I have the exact parts on my Evo.
- I'd recommend that you think long and hard about the clutch situation. I went cheap with a single disk organic and found myself in there 9500 miles later putting in yet another clutch. The Twin HD cerametallic is really the way to go for $1300, but if you get a single disk, the 4-puck Exedy stg2 is amazing but very harsh in initial engagement
- I basically have the same tunes, except my race gas tune is WITH alky. Alky + 112...
- 11.9 isn't a problem with those mods at sea level, but it will be tough at 5000'. I ran 12.000 at sea level with stock cams on my 05 and race gas @ 24psi with just a base flash, but then up here I ran 12.30 with cams and a custom flash for alky @ 26psi. That altitude kills us.





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Old 04-13-2007, 11:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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While you had posted it on one list, I didn't see it on the next list. That is the head gasket and headstuds. Definitely go with the arp (which you really should remove the head to do), but go with a different head gasket. Cometic is "alright". WHere they shine is when you need a custom bore size or thickness, and that's really when you should consider them, otherwise kit'd be kind of a waste of money. I'd say stick with the oem headgasket, which really performs quite well and is already an MLS gasket.
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Old 04-13-2007, 09:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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thanks man. forge bov it is then. the problem with the race gas +alky is that i cant run it for autox and i cant really afford to do pump, pump+alky, race, race+alky that would be expensive as hell.

does anyone have the megan racing coilovers? they are well accepted in the suby community and unlike most coils i found for the evo they have a higher rate up front which i beilve you run warr? i figure i will go with the tracks becasue of the stiffer spring rate. the harsh ride doesnt bother me.

i thought the twin hd was like 1600 if its 1300 id probably go for that. how long has it lasted? i cant afford to do a $1300 every 15000 miles.

im not doing head gaskets or studs unless absolutley necesary to run at 29 psi on race gas and maybe alky.

how strong is the transmission? i dont mind a harsh clutch but if the transmission is gonna blow up after an accidental drop or a hard shift then i dont want to risk it. how hard is a clutch in a evo? ive done them in subarus and some light trucks but never in a mitsubishi.

if i ended up with cams would there be any downfall to running the 280s over the 272s? i can live with a slightly higher idle. later in the future i plan for a turbo swap and maybe a little cheater spray to try and run 10s up at this altitude.
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:57 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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ok so you are all gonna make fun of me...

ran my first autox in the evo and my thinking on mods got completely flipped upside down and backwords haha.

absolutley loved it. so much better than my wrx. it was a long fast course with 2 technical sections. my first run i had a 66.1 and by the end of the day i had it down to a 59.64 +1 cone :doh: i finished 3rd in the novice class. the only cars to beat me were a stg 2 sti with front and rear swaybars and a c6 corvette on race rubber. im gonna make a post of it when my buddy sends me the pictures later tonight.

back to the mod topic, every corner i had positve camber. the camber curve could not hold even on shitty fusion HRIs. the suspension felt very mushy to me.

so instead of the above mod path i am thinking of going in this direction:
catback exhaust too add sound and a little performance.
megan racing 'track' coilovers.
if i can get my hands on some nicer looking wheels for street driving and use the hris on the street and get some race rubber on the stockers.
just ditch the HRIs for some 615s and just run on street tires. iirc PAX modifier for race rubber is some weird number like 1.1xx seconds added to your time so im not sure if it is worth it at my level of skill because im not sure that the race tires will let me improve more than a second. im kinda leaning towards the 615s. if i rolled my fenders could i fit 265/40/17s on the stockers or would that be too wide for the wheel?
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Old 04-16-2007, 08:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Just a sec...hold on.

The tire you choose has everything to do with the class you choose. YOu mentioned in your autox thread something about switching from Novice to TAS class? What is TAS? That is not a class in SCCA. Yes, there is A-Stock (AS), but there's no TAS unless it's some local class that your region created. Anyway, you definitely shouldn't worry or think about r-comps or coilovers until you've done a lot more events and learned to maximize the stock suspension and street tires. If you're in AS, that class is allowed to run only the stock rim size (17X8) but can run the largest r-comp that you can fit. Running r-comps does not change your PAX - that is dependent upon the class. AS allows r-comps but no coilovers and only a cat-back. STU requires street tires limited to 245s but allows for coilovers and full exhaust plus other power mods and has a different PAX. BSP and SM allow any tire size or type that you can fit pretty much.

You need to decide on the class you want, then worry about the mods you'll use. I recommend not getting entry-level coils until you've learned to maximize the suspension. I went a whole 1.5 years on the stock suspension and did VERY WELL. I then went to a full race suspension instead of an entry-level suspension, and now I'm competing at the very top of my region...only a few seconds RAW time behind shifter karts.

265/40-17 would have a pretty big sidewall and would not be a good tire size. You can do 255/40 RT-615s without any fender rolling.





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Old 04-16-2007, 05:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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the T designates street tires. the class is AS sorry about that. that switch was because of the guy who was codriving couldnt run in novice so they just bumped me to AS for the RNP session in the afternoon. sorry i should have mentioned that.

next year im planning on running in SM next year. i was told rcomps come with a pax modifier. tires would probably be the best choice. im trying to find a way to keep my camber from going so positve. my codriver won street mod in the morning and driving my car even he was getting really bad push in the corners and the tires were rolling all almost all the way to the rim.

Im not worried about rolling the fenders if it has to be done to fit the tires im more than ok with it. the reason i am leaning towards megan racing is the 10k/8k spring rates front/rear and the 32 levels of dampening. im not trying to win a national championship just get some performance out of it. i was hanging with another evo who was running on tien flexs.
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Old 04-16-2007, 07:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Still, there is no TAS in SCCA - that's just something your region has made up. There is also no PAX modifier for r-comps. The rules are the rules. Some classes allow street tires and some allow r-comps. It's up to you to run whatever the class allows. Some people use street tires in r-comp classes, but they get obliterated by cars that are properly-prepped. That's just how it works. Each class already has a PAX based off all the mods allowed. So, if your region makes extra classes with their own PAX, then maybe that's what you're referring to, but those are not classes that are listed in the SCCA rules.

10k/8k isn't a good reason to get the Megans. You're supposed to have stiffer in the rear anyway, and the 32 levels won't really matter. However, they're still good in terms of entry-level coilovers for sure. They are my top recommendation for someone trying to get the cheapest coils possible.





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