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Cylinder Head & Short Block Cams, valvetrain, pistons, rods, stroker kits, swaps, etc. Advanced modification discussions only.

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Old 03-22-2007, 05:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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cam install

I am planning on bring my car to extreme psi (they advertise on evom) to get cams installed and I wanted to know if driving back from the shop with the new cams would be risky without being tuned. The distance is about 20 miles.

Jared
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Old 03-22-2007, 06:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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No problem whatsoever. You will be fine for 20 or 2000 miles.





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Old 03-22-2007, 09:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Just to be on the safe side; don't floor it and push full boost.



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Old 03-23-2007, 03:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Yea I wasn't goiong to boost or drive hard regardless. I guess I'll have to granny shift and not double clutch like I should.

Jared
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Old 03-23-2007, 06:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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About the only real problem you might have is your idle is going to be... Funky
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Old 03-23-2007, 06:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06evors View Post
Yea I wasn't goiong to boost or drive hard regardless. I guess I'll have to granny shift and not double clutch like I should.
Seriously, it's not a concern. With cams, you don't get tuned so that the car runs ok, you get tuned just to extract all the power possible. Some people don't even get retuned...





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Old 04-09-2007, 09:03 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Seriously, it's not a concern. With cams, you don't get tuned so that the car runs ok, you get tuned just to extract all the power possible. Some people don't even get retuned...
Greetings from Iraq, fellahs! It's been about six months since I've been on the forum and it's nice to see that things are progressing just fine. I'm doing fine here...just taking it one day at a time. One of the things that I've been doing is reading every import magazine that I can get my hands on to pass time by. Of course, as some of you know, Uncle Sam does pay us pretty good when he sends us to Iraq. I've been saving a few "cents" here and there and buying just about every part that I can in order to max my stock turbo out. I'm at the point where cams are the next candidate. Warrtalon, I thought the comment you made about guys not bothering to get retuned after a cam installation was pretty interesting. What would be a logical reason for that not happening? I'm thinking that money or scheduling a legitmate tuner for the tune may be an issue. I know it is for me once I get back to Texas. My best bet is to wait for another Dynoflash trip to Texas. Moving on...back to cams. I have someone holding a pair of used GSC cams for me. He is selling them for $375. I believe they have about 6-8K miles on them. Would anyone recommend purchasing additional items (i.e. - springs, retainers, etc.) to go with this set-up? Thanks for the feedback in advance fellahs.
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Old 04-09-2007, 09:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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On a positive note I had the gsc 272's installed recently and with a slightly higher base idle (1k instead of 600-800) it idles really nice and sounds pretty good.

If you already have some mods just stay out of boost like previosly mentioned until you get tuned, unless you have a wideband afr in the car you can monitor, as the cams will lean things up in the higher rpms. Most evo's run pretty rich stock or with mail in tunes, so you could probably boost and be alright, but better safe than sorry.
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Old 04-09-2007, 09:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Greetings from Iraq, fellahs! It's been about six months since I've been on the forum and it's nice to see that things are progressing just fine. I'm doing fine here...just taking it one day at a time. One of the things that I've been doing is reading every import magazine that I can get my hands on to pass time by. Of course, as some of you know, Uncle Sam does pay us pretty good when he sends us to Iraq. I've been saving a few "cents" here and there and buying just about every part that I can in order to max my stock turbo out. I'm at the point where cams are the next candidate. Warrtalon, I thought the comment you made about guys not bothering to get retuned after a cam installation was pretty interesting. What would be a logical reason for that not happening? I'm thinking that money or scheduling a legitmate tuner for the tune may be an issue. I know it is for me once I get back to Texas. My best bet is to wait for another Dynoflash trip to Texas. Moving on...back to cams. I have someone holding a pair of used GSC cams for me. He is selling them for $375. I believe they have about 6-8K miles on them. Would anyone recommend purchasing additional items (i.e. - springs, retainers, etc.) to go with this set-up? Thanks for the feedback in advance fellahs.
arp headstuds, might as well while your in there and since you have meth I'm assuming the boost goes north of 20-21psi.

Unless your want to go shift about 7500 rpms should be alright on the stock valvetrain.
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Old 04-09-2007, 04:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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i thought you didnt have to pull the head to do the cams? if you pulled the head to swap the studs wouldnt you need a new headgasket?

what is the highest redline you can run safley with an upgraded valvetrain and studs?
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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By the time you can get the cams out, its only another couple minutes work to get the head studs in. As long as the gasket isnt too beat up its fine.

I don't know how high you could rev, I tuned up to 7800 rpm but I usually shift right at 7k, the stock turbo can't flow enough to make much power past 7k.
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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i guess now that i think about it that makes sense since you wouldnt even have to lift the head up off the block. good call.
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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If you are doing head studs without planning to change the head gasket, do the "one at a time" swap method. Replace one bolt with a stud and torque the nut to the low end of the torque range specified for the studs, and then do the next one, blah blah blah..... after you have them all replaced go back and re-torque them to the high end of the torque specification range using the correct sequence specified in the manual for the stud replacement.

Keith
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