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Cylinder Head & Short Block Cams, valvetrain, pistons, rods, stroker kits, swaps, etc. Advanced modification discussions only.

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Old 01-30-2008, 12:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Cams will help you out on the power you want now and later so I ask why not? Also where do you want your power at? 300, 500. these are the things you need to know before you start modding. IMO

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Old 01-30-2008, 12:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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I am at 300 Right now... im aiming 400-500-550 ish? it alwasy changes cometimes I want a 1MILLION HP Evo, it be cool. lol. but yeah 400-550 ish is what I am aimg at, since my car vistits the 7K rmp frequently, I am worried if I do do the cams, and not springs and reatiners I dont wanna float a valve or cause anyother type of issues.
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Old 01-30-2008, 12:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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The need for springs and retainers largely is determined by the cam of choice and the RPM range intended to be used while running that cam. And with that said, you don't just use any spring retainer set. You need to "match" your springs/retainers to the cam and it's profile.

You need to decide on the cam you wish to run, and then determine the RPM range you will be using the cam at (assuming the cam's lift/duration specs do not already require use of a "upgraded" valvetrain) before you just decided to do a valvetrain upgrade.

BAMBAM is right.. The ARP head studs are superior to the stock headbolts. This is a great book (Amazon.com: Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop): Books: Carroll Smith) and while I'm not a big reader at all, I was actually drawn in by this one. VERY good book. It'll answer all of your questions on why the ARP head studs (or any head stud for that matter is the proper fastener for this application)
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Old 01-30-2008, 06:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAMBAM View Post
ARP head studs are roll formed instead of cut threads like stock, I figured I would explain what I mean in grave detail to you. what this means cut treadds can become weak over time, not not only are the ARP head studs roll formed but they are formed after heat treated. That means a stronger thread!
I'm pretty sure all bolt thread's, ARP and everything else are cut this way. It would not be economical to cut each individual bolt on a CNC. And you can't forge 360* threads, Although hex-nuts on the heads (top) of bolts are forged. As for the heat treatment and its' place in the process of manufacturing, this has more to do with the tensile strength and hardness than anything else.

I am no industrial fastner expert, but I can't see the process being exclusive to ARP. However, ARP being application specific, raw materials would be your key variable.

ARP most likely has a "special" process for thier specific applications and desired results. I would expect the same to be true for the factory hardware. We are talking about a WRC car after all, and I have yet to see RALLIART headbolts.

I will try not and "thread jack" anymore, and I intend on doing the tensile test. I have some fairly low mile, donated factory hardware. I will try and pick it up this weekend, weather permitting. Thanks Uterus.

I will start a new thread when I do the test, and maybee one of our moderators can move all of this there.
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Old 01-30-2008, 07:47 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Justin: The cams are Brian crower 272's On the site it says to use thier Springs and Retainers, Now I have asked around and everyone gives me diffrent answers, AMS say I do not need them, Revolutions Says I do, Few other shops as well say I Do or Dont, I am in school to be machanic, and Instructors have diffrent opinions of them... I am at complete loss right now. If I dont do springs and retainers I will stay at the Stock rev. if I do them I will most likely be goin up to 8,000RPMS But no more then 9,000 So I dont know.
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Old 01-30-2008, 07:52 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Do you have the cam cards for the particular grind you are going with? If so, send it my way.
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:14 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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If you mean the pice of paper that came with the cams here is what it says on it.

BC0121

Advertised Duration: 272 Inake 272 Exhaust

Duration at .50". 206 Intake 206 Exhaust
Valve Lift (inches) .415" Intake .388"Exhaust
Valve Lift (MM) 10.54 Intake 9.86 Exhaust
Valve Lash (inches) .000 Intake .000 Exhaust


If thats what ur looking for if something else please give more detail
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Old 01-31-2008, 08:58 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
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yes/no?
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:12 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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I was busy today.. I'll crunch some numbers and get back with you

Those will work as thats all the cam manufacture usually gives.. More detail on the lobe profile is always good but I can work with that.
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:17 PM   #25 (permalink)
 
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Ummm, I dont know those Numbers how would I find those? Is there a pice of paper in the box that tells those numbers? Sorry I am a NEWBI kinda lol.

Thanks Justin U are the man.
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:22 AM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Coevo it is on the cam it's self. The numbers he is talking about. I think you are ok tho on what you gave him.

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Old 02-01-2008, 08:16 AM   #27 (permalink)
 
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I hope so. then I need to save up, and get tunned again.
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Old 02-02-2008, 08:09 AM   #28 (permalink)
 
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TOday is the day....CAms might be gettin put in. and KenMasters are u still up to helping me?
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Old 02-03-2008, 11:14 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Thanks Jordan for commin down and helpin me with the cams...

1/2 done due to the fact the itake has a BIG ass allen wrench in there and i didnt have naything bigger then a 10MM...
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Old 02-03-2008, 11:27 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Yeah, I mean who in the heck would have a 14mm allen-socket? I will bet you, that will be the only thing you ever use it on. Everything has to be beautiful and unique with theese cars.

If it weren't for the freezing cold and my "butterfingers", we would have been done sooner. Anyways, after this next weekend, I think we should try and get you to the tuner. I am eager to see the gains. I would like to see an overlay of your hp, and tq curves. Old and new.
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