I need to replace my rotors because they are warped, they are slotted rotors and have at least 20k miles on them.
What I am wondering is if buying the $200 rotors on ebay is fine, since every set of rotors I seem to get on any car seems to warp. Or if getting the ~$600 ones is better. I don't want to compromise braking ability, or at least a lot, and I would rather not have the rotors warp in another 20k miles. But if either the $200 or $600 rotors are going to warp under the same braking conditions than I would rather get the $200 ones.
I am not aware of rotors on Ebay, but I think you should get a complete brake kit that is built to work together as opposed to just throwing in slotted rotors. I don't know what else you have in your braking system, but you typically want to combine these 4 things:
- Rotors (I use Centric slotted)
- stainless steel braided brake lines (I use Teknafit lines)
- Aftermarket performance street pads (I use Hawk HP+ - you can use Hawk HPS)
- Performance DOT-4 fluid (I use Super Blue ATE or Motul 600)
I use a pre-built kit that includes all 4 of these and is sold by VIP Garage (http://vipgarageonline.com). I think that you pay $750 or so for all of it, but you'd have to call them to make sure. Even if you don't want their specific kit, try to get that same combo of parts with your preferred brands
as far as i know those are the rotors that i have in there now, centric slotted rotors
see that price isn't that bad, i have actually been trying to find centric rotors because i hear that they are priced good, and are good rotors but the only rotors that i could find were upwards of $600 just for the rotors
i just replaced my rear pads with project mu pads, the front ones are still the stock ones apparently at least they are brembo anyways, so i didn't really want to get pads right at the moment, but i guess if it helps with warp i will...but if not, i may consider waiting
also are there any limitations on whether i can have slotted, drilled, dimpled, slotted/drilled, slotted/dimpled? i read somewhere that with advanced braking systems such as ours they are sometimes limited to slotted rotors
There are cross-drilled, slotted, and cross-drilled + slotted, but I don't recommend anything that is cross-drilled. I only recommend blank or slotted.
Why did you upgrade the rear pads but not the fronts? The fronts get way more abuse and are way more important. Everything is Brembo in the stock system, but an 03 should no longer have the stock pads.
the only reason i replaced the rear ones is because they were worn right down and were squeeling, but the front ones were fine and still have a lot of pad still left on them i suppose the thing to do would be to just replace all the pads so they will all just be new, but i just don't want to spend money if it isn't needed
why don't you recommend anything slotted? that is what i have now, they came on the car when i got it...but i'm just wondering
If your going through stock style rotors, step up one; Performance Friction Floating Rotors. It's a floating design, stock size, dimpled not drilled, and replacements cost $210 (scroll down); http://www.roadraceengineering.com/evo.htm
Larry, those definitely do not look like something he'd want. Quite expensive at $330/rotor (remember, you need 4 rotors), and they apparently make a lot of noise. The regular slotted rotors right above those seem to make much more sense in this case.
Probably something that I would want after I replace the new ones I get.
I haven't had to replace my rotors on this car, but I have had a couple cars in the past where I have needed to replace rotors several times.
My thing was that the rotors that are on there now are slotted and they warped, in what seems like a short amount of time(had the car about 8 months now) especially since i don't brake hard a lot, only when i want to show a friend how fast i can stop...
But the Centric slotted rotors look good for now, I saw on their website that they had slotted/dimpled ones, i didn't know if that would provide for better cooling without having to worry about cracking of the rotor or if just sticking to a straight slotted rotor as warrtalon recommended...so far i have listened to everything he has said, and so far i have had no problems, and have been happy so i respect what he has to say and if he told me to get rotors made of cheese i would probably do it
The only exeption I can think of to the "no drilled rotors" is the ones that come from the OEM car maker that way, like some of the porsch rotors, and the front rotors on the 96 VR-4 Spyder were full of holes from the factory. The reason they are the exeption to the rule is they are not actually drilled, they are cast with the holes in place, and they are designed to not interfear with the internal structure of the rotor.
Two piece rotors allow you replace just the rotors, and thus you are able to replace a quality piece at a somewhat cheaper price. BTW not all two piece rotors rattle.
The thought... something is way wrong if you are going through rear pads before fronts.
and as a bonus, if your brakes ARE (?) in good shape, it is more likely to have pad transfer problems that cause wobble, not warped rotors. The fact that you are still using stock pads in front is confusing as they should hold up to normal driving without causing transfer problems. But next time you get wobble free make certain you don't hold the bakes on after you have had a hard brake. Hot pads leave a blush of material on the rotor if you hold the brakes at a stop. The next time the rotors get hot, wobble wobble. Normal braking shouldn't be a problem, but coming after a hard braking session is when you need to be careful.
Once you get transfer, light use will tend to scrape off the deposit while hard braking will not.
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