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Drivetrain Tech Transmission, clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, gears, differentials, transfer case, shifter, etc.

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Old 01-09-2008, 07:43 PM   #31 (permalink)
 
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Check to see if ur throttle body is clean and nothing in the pipes, also check the turbo intake pipe....also make sure all pipes are on all the way. and the syntomps u are saying sound like you have a bad leak, like a pipe isnt very connected. recheck it, and then check it again, never hurt anyone.
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Old 01-10-2008, 07:39 AM   #32 (permalink)
 
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hummm...... A lean code. You do have a bigger pump right? It sounds like a air leak or a conector not hooked up. Anyone know much about this code before?

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Old 01-10-2008, 08:27 AM   #33 (permalink)
 
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stock.

my car is fully stock except for the cone filter, turbo timer and springs.
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Old 01-10-2008, 10:55 AM   #34 (permalink)
 
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Okay did some reaserch for you on this code and I hope this helps a little bit
"What does that mean?

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.

Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174 (http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...en-sensor.php), and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

Symptoms

You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

Causes

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:



The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters (K&N, etc.) can cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.
Possible Solutions

Possible solutions include:



In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure"

It sounds right to everything you have said about ur car, ohh
and btw DO NOT use octane booster, it damages the spark plugs and wears down the seals on the pistons, so yeah u have siad you used it, dont, it will woid warrentys, due to "trying" to increase octane with Chimicals. and such. so its very bad, worse case senrio u might have to pull out pistons and rehone the cylinder walls.

Hope this helps a bit. ill try to answer more questions if you have any.

Elvis
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Old 01-10-2008, 02:18 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Information was taken from a program called ALLDATA. Some of you might know it, others never heard of it.

Troubleshooting Hints (The most likely causes for this code to be se are

-Volume airflow sensor failed.
-Injector failed.
-Incorrect fuel pressure.
-Air drawn in from gaps in gaskets, seals, etc.
-Heated oxygen sensor failed.
-Engine coolant temperature sensor failed.
-Intake air temperature sensor failed.
-Barometric pressure sensor failed.
-Use of incorrect or contaminated fuel.
-ECM failed.
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Old 01-10-2008, 02:48 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I say do the most easy once. Since before your car drove fine then just change the gas and dont add anything to it. And also check for vacuum leaks. My co-worker was saying that a vacuum leak can also happen since you are in vacuum at low rpm and idle and when you start boosting it becomes a boost leak. Few times at work on some hondas when we did some work and hook everything back on check engine light came on. It was funny but some plugs on accords are same. They look the same and plug in the same way. So, check the plugs/connectors and make sure they are connected and that they are the right once. Also check the vacuum routings, make sure that all the vacuum lines are connected to the right spots, like fuel presure regulator. I have the entire diagnostics procedures here but I think you will get confused so I am not going to type everything. Just the basics. Good Luck, let us know what was wrong with it.
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Old 01-10-2008, 02:52 PM   #37 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yangs4ever4g63 View Post
only code that came up was *malfunction speed sensor*. Other then that, the car still isn't running right. Talked to a shop, mechanical is 89 an hour and tuning is 160 an hour. I think mechanical would fall in my needs. Hopefully it doesn't take multiple hours.
Ok so you hade two codes one is this one and the other is a rich code. are you sure there are no more codes. Please makes sure you do a boost leak teast and check the MAF sensor. it really sounds like something simple that you forgot to put back when you put the cone on it.

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Old 01-10-2008, 04:58 PM   #38 (permalink)
 
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I'll check it

I'll try and see if the dealership can do a boost leak test and check the maf sensor. They should be able to resolve the problem. I don't know how much they'll charge but probably pretty high since it's mostly labor costs. But the dealerships are closer to me then any major performance shops. And plus my car is not perfect for driving especially up the HILL. I don't wanna wear out a brand new clutch & flywheel but engaging around 2-3k just to drive forward. Definitely tomorrow I'll look at my motor for anything suspicious. The cone filter seems to be fitted on right, the air flow meter is plugged on and switched on also.. only thing unusual is the filter is not stabilized and can move a bit since nothings holding the cone filter in its place. I'll try and troubleshoot tomorrow and hopefully resolve! Thanks guys for your time and patience. I'd feel bad if it was something simple...
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Old 01-10-2008, 06:48 PM   #39 (permalink)
 
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Dealerships don't do boost leak tests - they don't even know what it is or how to do it. They will likely not have a clue what may be wrong with your MAF and will use the opportunity to void your warranty by flagging it in the Mitsu system, since you have the cone filter, did your own clutch, and are having big problems as a result of those.

This code is not because you're actually running lean. I know you said you reconnected the MAF, but have you gone out and made ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the MAF plug is FULLY SEATED? This is a common mistake, because it's not that easy to get it fully seated. When the MAF plug is not fully plugged in, the car runs like total ass (almost like on 3 cylinders), and it throws codes.





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Old 01-10-2008, 07:33 PM   #40 (permalink)
 
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ok..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warrtalon View Post
Dealerships don't do boost leak tests - they don't even know what it is or how to do it. They will likely not have a clue what may be wrong with your MAF and will use the opportunity to void your warranty by flagging it in the Mitsu system, since you have the cone filter, did your own clutch, and are having big problems as a result of those.

This code is not because you're actually running lean. I know you said you reconnected the MAF, but have you gone out and made ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the MAF plug is FULLY SEATED? This is a common mistake, because it's not that easy to get it fully seated. When the MAF plug is not fully plugged in, the car runs like total ass (almost like on 3 cylinders), and it throws codes.
Your talking about the maf adapter plate thing that belongs on the cone filter am I right? Also, my car doesn't have warranty so none of that is my concern. The only maf that I myself and my brother reassembled was the air flow meter. We simply just took it off the stock air box and added it onto the new cone filter. Harness is plugged in correctly but If you said its not fully seated. I'll make sure that everything is tight and fit. I guess the dealership visit will be canceled since you said they don't know shiett. I'mma have to drive the car to a known performance shop that does the boost leak test. I'll let you know what I discover. Thanks for your concern
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Old 01-10-2008, 08:04 PM   #41 (permalink)
 
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Yeah warr is right, they will screw you over, they did me, im red flagged on everything possible on the car, which sucks, but im goin to school to be a tech. what kind of Cone filter are u using? if it has oil on it, you have screwed up ur maf, oil getting in there will screw up the sensor, and that thing is not cheap to replace...

Also this might seem like a stupid question but do you have oil in the car?
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Old 01-10-2008, 09:29 PM   #42 (permalink)
 
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yea..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coevopower View Post
Yeah warr is right, they will screw you over, they did me, im red flagged on everything possible on the car, which sucks, but im goin to school to be a tech. what kind of Cone filter are u using? if it has oil on it, you have screwed up ur maf, oil getting in there will screw up the sensor, and that thing is not cheap to replace...

Also this might seem like a stupid question but do you have oil in the car?
I have the cone filter from AMS. K&N filter with maf adapter plate. I didn't add any oil on the filter. As soon as I opened the packaging for the filter, I installed it right after I installed my clutch&Fly. If oil is interfering with my sensor? what now? I gotta double check in the morning about all this..My motor oil? My motor oil was still good when I started it up for the first time. I still had about 1k left before I had to change it anyways..But the other day I changed it anyways since I wanted a fresh start with all my new fluids and minor stuff. I even added a better oil filter to make sure everything ran top notch..Tomorrow I'mma check the wiring of the spark plugs..last time I checked them they had black shiet on them and they were wet. I put the OEM plugs back in so tomorrow I'll have a look. At least we have things narrowd down right now..

So far..
Mass air sensor interruption? (gotta double check and clean any debris in the intake pipings)
Vacuum leak? (Like I said below, We only took off the things that would get in the way of the tranny; I don't recall taking off any vacuum pipes). I just followed Evomoto steps..
IC piping not tight? (it can't be the Ic piping cause all we took off was only the ones above the tranny)..
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Old 01-10-2008, 11:02 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yangs4ever4g63 View Post
Tomorrow I'mma check the wiring of the spark plugs..last time I checked them they had black shiet on them and they were wet. I put the OEM plugs back in so tomorrow I'll have a look.

"Wet black deposits indicate oil in the cylinder, which can be caused by worn rings or leaking valve seals."
Did it look like the bottom picture?
http://www.machv.com/foulsparplug.html

As far as the oil in the MAF; K&N uses oiled cotton for a filter medium. Excess oil can get into the sensor and throw off readings. Solution;
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...x?S=Y&PN=05110
.. and when you clean and reinstall the filter, do not over oil it.



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Old 01-11-2008, 06:59 AM   #44 (permalink)
 
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I think when he put the cone kit on he forgot to hook something up is what is sounds like maybe the boost controler. or the vacum line back to the valve cover or something like that.

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Old 01-11-2008, 08:53 AM   #45 (permalink)
 
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Well. Check the MAF. Check them pipes. even tho u didnt take them off, its always better to check then feel stupid later.

When using octane booster it could have damaged ur rings. dude to the chimical additive in there....

Do you hear any noises comming from the motor at idle?
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