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Old 07-24-2008, 06:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Engine torque damper, waste of money?

I hate those dress up parts so I dont wanna waste my money. But I have trouble shifting at high RPMs often. Someone told me to get an engine torque damper. they run about $160 and I dont want to spend that kind of money if its not going to help a great deal. Let me know what you people think. Thanks
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Old 07-24-2008, 08:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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It is somewhat of a waste of money, because it is a band-aid to the real problem, which is the front motor mount bushing. You can change that out for $50 and solve the problem at its root. The damper can work well IN ADDITION to the bushing, but in place of it, it will be more of a cosmetic part, and sometimes they fail over time.

You can get a Forge or Buschur bushing insert for $50, or you can get one that comes with the whole brace for ~$100 or so? I can't remember which brands have that type - Blox maybe? That is one of the best mods for the Evo in my opinion in terms of bang for the buck, so go that route first.





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Old 07-25-2008, 05:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil-Evolutio-8 View Post
I hate those dress up parts so I dont wanna waste my money. But I have trouble shifting at high RPMs often. Someone told me to get an engine torque damper. they run about $160 and I dont want to spend that kind of money if its not going to help a great deal. Let me know what you people think. Thanks
Is it grinding at high RPM's? Are you shifting fast?

Warr- I have problems shifting into 2nd at the track, it grinds. I'm assuming my issue is a transmission thing or is this also a bushing issue?


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Old 07-25-2008, 06:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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ya it grinds sometimes but only because it wont go into gear. And it only happens when Im trying to shift fast and especially at the drag strip where I tend to get into the higher RPM band. Warr, So its the front lower motor mount? I just want to be sure because at this point in time im putting all my efforts into improving shifting. EX. upper+lower clutch lines and remove restrictor pill in the slave cyl. so if you have any other reasonably priced ideas to help let me know.
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Old 07-25-2008, 06:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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actually I just ordered the ams one two seconds ago. it the factory mount fitted with an upgraded insert. thanks
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Old 07-25-2008, 06:38 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Evil-Evolutio-8 View Post
I just want to be sure because at this point in time im putting all my efforts into improving shifting. EX. upper+lower clutch lines and remove restrictor pill in the slave cyl. so if you have any other reasonably priced ideas to help let me know.
Yeah, I've installed the Buschur underhood shifter bushings and did their short throw shifter at the same time. I havn't been back to the track since but the shifting feels better/smoother. The most noticable change is shifting into reverse, obviously doesn't help at the track but it's like butter going into reverse now.

Sounds like I'll have to look into a front motor mount as well.

Did you notice any difference when you removed the restrictor pill?


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Old 07-25-2008, 08:45 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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You're going in the right direction. This is what I have:

- Kartboy Shifter bushings (no short shifter)
- Buschur trans bushings
- SS clutch line (upper only)
- Removed clutch restrictor pill
- Forge front motor mount

With those things, I've been able to shift with lightning speed for a long time. I now have a Shep trans and t-case along with a great Exedy Twin, but even back before all that, I was able to shift as fast as I wanted (powershift) in any gear. The worst problem I ever had was when I had the ACT HDSS (organic street disk), because it would give me high rpm lockout (7k or higher). I had to adjust the clutch pedal really high so that it would disengage fully, but that led to premature wear due to slippage while driving normally.

The only time I ever had grinding issues was at the end of the ACT's life when it was about to go out, my 4th gear shift started to grind. I thought I had hurt the synchros, but soon after, the clutch started slipping. As soon as I put in the new Exedy, the grind went away, and I was able to put my clutch pedal back to a normal engagement point.





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Old 07-25-2008, 03:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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That sucks because I have the ACT clutch kit in and have had it for a few years. . I was already planing on the exedy clutch when this one goes out. how much should I expect for a shep trans build and Tcase? just roughly? MADMAN I didnt drive the car after doing the work the guy is crazy about other ppl driving his car. Even when mines faster. He said it feels a hundred times better.
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Old 07-25-2008, 04:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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If you do your trans and t-case build BEFORE they break, then you save a lot of money and end up with a nearly bulletproof system that can handle more power than you'll have for a while. Usually, though, most people don't undertake the expense until after breaking something, and then it usually costs a lot more.

I use Exedy exclusively since that first ACT. I highly recommend the Twin HD cerametallic. I love it for all facets of driving that I do with my Evo - daily driving, auto-x, road racing, and drag.





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