I finaly went to the track again and ran a 12.4 at 108.35 mph.
I am runing a 3" turbo back exhaust from buschur no cat, cone air mass filter from buschur, jdmr dv, lower intercooler pipe, road race clutch and lighter flywheel,720cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, tuned with an afc.
My question is would it be possible to break into the 11's with 272 camshafts and tune it again with the afc, I know I dont need injectors if I get flashed because I many would say get flashed but, I am thinking of getting the fp green turbo in the future and would need the injectors anyway.
I ran 100 octane and 23-24 psi.
here are my two best runs of the day and I finally broke the 1.6 60 foot but my shifting was very slow, and on the 12.4 did some adjustments to the afc.
Hmm, well if these runs had have been on pump gas, then they would be pretty good, but on 100oct, it's not so good. I'm not sure how you hit a 12.4 with a 1.75 60' but then a 12.6 with a 1.66 60'. The 12.4 run is an ok launch but very good shifting, whereas the 12.6 is a great launch with so-so shifting. You just need to put all the good things together in one run, hah.
No, adding cams and a flash wouldn't put you in the 11s based off where you are now. Cams usually add about 30whp, so you can add 3mph and drop .3s, but that's not enough to hit 11s from where you are now unless maybe you get flashed for race gas and big boost.
I have about the same mods (Bscr stage 2/ walbro) but have hita 12.5 on 91 pump with a flash. I'll try to find my slips and post them to compare. I was trapping around 109 mph, so I think your if you dialed in your technique you could drop those times on 100oct if your properly tuned for it. Did you datalog your runs to see where your timing advance was?
When I drag I make use of the launch control, I never lift my foot off the gas pedal, it stays pegged at wot through shifts. I gained a couple tenths using that technique over lift to shift.
I've got gsc 272 and a stage 2 snow meth kit I've yet to install, but when I do and get it tuned and run a couple pass's I'll post up the results if your interested. From your mods and mph I would infer that our cars are probably on the same power level.
With cams and a reflash you might be able to go faster than the safc and 100 oct.
warr I hit a 1.6 60 foot but my shifting was very slow because I was being carefull not to miss a gear because I had missed a gear the previouse run. I guess I will use a reflash or standalone after I install camshafts in the car.
sure Ime interested superfly any tips are wanted.
I think Ive heard war don't take his foot off the gas either ime sure it helps the times but is there any ill efects to using this method of shifting.
I do no-lift shifting now that I have an awesome Exedy clutch, but I got my best times down at sea level with normal, fast shifting. I used to only flat shift the 3-4, because it's so easy. Shifting like that definitely can be harmful over the long-term, because it hurts the synchros and shocks the drivetrain. You definitely don't have to do it to get good times, but you do still need to shift with lightning speed.
I hate to break open an old conversation, but I had a question about flat-footing, or WOT shifting (whatever the term may be around here)...
First of all, I used to be a fan of the SRT-4. I was in the middle-east when it came out, and having owned a Neon at the time, I was just amazed that they managed to produce such a car for under $20k. Anyway, I test-drove them every year when I was back on vacation, and I was fairly impressed with how smoothly it handled WOT shifting. I remained overseas throughout the SRT-4's production life, so I never owned one (though I drove the crap out of them on "extended test-drives" every year). Now, I'm a new Evo owner, and I'm having difficulty with WOT shifts...specifically, 1-2 gives me tremendous trouble if I keep my foot flat to the floor. Its like the clutch isn't disengaging fast enough to allow it into 2nd. The weird part is that I haven't missed a gear yet when doing some spirited normal shifts, and my clutch-work doesn't change between the two techniques.
So, the question is this: Am I experiencing some limitation in the stock clutch, or am I just flat-out doing it wrong? I can take it either way...like I said, I'm new to Evo's, so I may just have to face the fact that I need to re-learn a few things.
1) We have a clutch restrictor valve in the slave cylinder that delays the response of the clutch when pressing the pedal. Mitsu put this in to limit drivetrain damage from launching and fast shifting.
2) You shouldn't even be thinking about it anyway unless you're drag racing at the track, and even if you are at the track, you don't need to powershift the 1-2 to go fast, so I wouldn't worry about it. I didn't start powershifting the 1-2 until I got a really nice clutch in there that could handle it, but I went very fast with normal quick shifting regardless.
Oh, of course...I guess I've seen that when researching the 2-step. Oh well...I need to put 2 and 2 together, I guess.
As for trying out the 1-2 WOT...yeah, just seeing what it can do, heh. If I were to get rid of that restrictor valve (I believe I've seen it called "removing the pill", or something of the sort...), would it affect 2-step launching? If I'm not mistaken, good clutch-work on the launch removes the need for that "safety", no? In any case, this all just curiousity, as I'll likely not continue playing around with WOT shifts...not for a long while, at least.
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