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Old 08-02-2007, 03:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Help!

So yesterday, I had the idle stablizer (EIDS) removed from my car since I'm no longer using the HKS BOV. As soon as I left the shop I knew something was wrong.

Now for some reason when I'm on it full throttle and coming out of 3rd or 4th gear, the RPMs come down and get stuck at 4000. It just stays there with no foot on any pedel The only way to get it to come down to a normal idle is to push the clutch in. I also noticed it takes longer for the rpms to lower in between gears. I was with Justin (JustDSM) yesterday to touch up my map and he thought maybe the throttle cable may be getting stuck or held up some how. Other than that we were both like ?

Does anyone have any other ideas?
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Old 08-02-2007, 07:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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When you removed the EIDS did you return the wiring to it's original state? IIRC the EIDS had you splice two or three wires. I'd also take some electrical contact cleaner and spray it into your MAF (with it removed from the intake of course).

Every once in awhile my RPM's will actually rise a little between shifts...which is an inidication of a sticky throttle cable.
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Old 08-02-2007, 07:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Well I'm not the one who removed it so I really don't know if they returned the wiring back to the way it was. I called the shop who removed it for me and he said all they did was clip the wires. That probably means they didn't return to it's origanal state, right?
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Old 08-02-2007, 08:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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That's correct. If one of those wires is grounding out against the metal bracing under your dash it could be causing problems.
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Old 08-04-2007, 07:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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That's correct. If one of those wires is grounding out against the metal bracing under your dash it could be causing problems.
So I had them double check everything to make sure nothing was grounding out. Everything seemed to be in order. They think it might be in my programing because when Justin initialy tuned me, I had that EIDS installed. As soon as I removed it , the problem started.

I was thinking I may just put it back on or else I might have a whole new map done.
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Old 08-04-2007, 08:09 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I'm certain it's nothing in the ECU. If you'd like, I'll return it back to your stock flash and you'll see the problem continues.

On a mild car such as yours, I don't even mess with the maps that affect the idle speed/ISC Motor/ect. I doubt it's even related to the EDIS removal. Something is binding/sticking causing the throttle plate to remain open after a WOT event. The same thing I told you when we met back up.
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Old 08-04-2007, 08:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok so my understanding,

1: Justin tuned your car, everything was ok.
2: Some other shop worked on your car, removing a part
3: Problem surfaced.
4: Shop says its not their fault
5: Justin explains he doesnt touch the stuff in the ECU that would adjust the idle (not to mention, the ecu can't cycle the ISCV fast enough to keep the car at 4K RPM)

My suggestion: Let Justin take a look at it and see exactly what the shop did when they removed the EDIS and troubleshoot the car properly.
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Old 08-06-2007, 12:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Digging through some stuff.. Here's some ideas of possible causes besides the sticky throttle cable I thought it could have been..

Dirty/malfunctioning ISC valve.
Vac/Boost leak at throttle body
Misadjusted BISS screw/TPS
Diverter valve problem

However I'd be more than happy to make some adjustments to the ISCV tables to try and compensate for this, but I'd like to find the source of the problem (if there is one) rather than try and tune around it.

Get ahold of me via PM and we'll work something out.
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Old 08-06-2007, 04:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by JustDSM View Post
Digging through some stuff.. Here's some ideas of possible causes besides the sticky throttle cable I thought it could have been..

Dirty/malfunctioning ISC valve.
Vac/Boost leak at throttle body
Misadjusted BISS screw/TPS
Diverter valve problem

However I'd be more than happy to make some adjustments to the ISCV tables to try and compensate for this, but I'd like to find the source of the problem (if there is one) rather than try and tune around it.

Get ahold of me via PM and we'll work something out.
Boost leak is possible. I'm wondering whether or not I might have loosened some of the upper intercooler piping trying to wiggle the new DV on there. Let me double check and make sure it's all tightend up. I still have to shorten that vacuum line also. It's pretty long. I'll let you know though.
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Old 08-06-2007, 08:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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I have an 05' as well and my car is doing the same thing. It didn't happen until the install of my UPIC pipe. Electrically I have had nothing removed or added. I will also check my pipe and see if this helps. JUSTDSM is going to tune my car this month or he might have an answer.
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Old 08-06-2007, 10:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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If something occurred after an install, then logic would say to uninstall the part and see if the problem persists. Try putting your stock UICP back on and see what happens...





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Old 08-06-2007, 11:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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It doesn't bother me. From the information it is possible that it is the pipe. I will deal with it and continue on with my modifications. I will add the rest of my mods', get it tuned, and see what happens.
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Old 08-07-2007, 06:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Interesting outlook there - not one I would recommend to others.





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Old 08-07-2007, 09:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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I have to agree with Warr 100% on this one. Adding more mods onto a car that is not functioning correctly after changing the upper IC pipe is just asking for trouble.

To the original poster, I suspect your new BOV is more likely to be the problem than anything else. If it is not installed correctly or not functiononing properly for some reason it could cause symptoms like you are talking about.

Keith
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Old 08-08-2007, 03:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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I have to agree with Warr 100% on this one. Adding more mods onto a car that is not functioning correctly after changing the upper IC pipe is just asking for trouble.

To the original poster, I suspect your new BOV is more likely to be the problem than anything else. If it is not installed correctly or not functiononing properly for some reason it could cause symptoms like you are talking about.

Keith


I had Justin take a look at it and he said it looked like it was on right. It was kind of a tight squeeze because the hose didn't quite bend where it needed to but I got it fit without pinching it to much. How ever I can't help but to think that it's pulling my BOV over just a little. I'll try to get a pic up so you guys can see what I mean.

I still don't understand why pushing the clutch in and out will get it to stop.
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