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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well hoping that the knowledgable people over here can help me out. I thought that I had it all figured out already, but here I am.

I had decided to get the ACT HDSS Street Clutch & Gruppe-S flywheel since I am not building a track monster, just something to have fun in. The decision to get the ACT was based on review on evom. It appeared that everyone loves that particular clutch/combo.

To make a long story short I contacted Buschur and was told by Jerrod that the ACT clutches are bad for the EVO? That the Center Force clutch is much better.

Now I know that Buschur knows EVO's, however every post I have found regarding the Center Force clutch states that it is garbage, Known for harsh engagement, Quick Failure, Etc.

Now I am back at the same decision, ACT, Center Force, or Exedy.

Please don't hold back, let me know what you think, I am stuck.
 

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I don't know about on the evo but I had a centerforce dual friction installed after my act 2600 bit the dust on my gsx. The centerforce was a lot easier to engage (pedal feel not as heavy) and held just as well if not better than the act 2600.

I would hold off for better advice from warrtalon or another more familiar member, could be they are overstocked on centerforce and are trying to unload, but Buschur in my experiences have always been pretty upfront and honest with their products.
 

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I have heard the ACT clutch is not a good choice for the Evo because of different issues from different people. I don't know much about the centerforce but I have seen them move a car down the track. I am sticking with a Exedy because they designed the OEM one and I don't hear a whole lot of issues with them. Search this forum and others and you might get the feedback you are looking for.
 

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I definitely disagree with the statement that "it appeared that everyone loves that particular clutch/combo" in reference to the ACT HDSS and gruppe-s flywheel. First of all, I hated my ACT HDSS because of the 7k rpm lockout problem and the fact that it required you to adjust the pedal engagement all the way to the top just in order to shift it fast at high rpm. Mine was a pain in the butt and could not withstand my racing - it lasted 9500 miles and less than a year. I now only use Exedy, but if you don't race, the ACT HDSS will probably suit your needs.

I also have no idea why BR would suggest a "Center Force" clutch? Not only have I never heard of anyone using a clutch by them on an Evo, I've never seen BR push that brand. I highly suggest an Exedy Twin HD, but if you never plan to really use the car, then you might want to just choose between the ACT HDSS and Exedy Hyper Single or Exedy organic. I am not fond of any single disk clutches, but they are the only things that are relatively cheap.
 

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From all the searching and reading I've done on the topic it seems in general if you're going to be doing a lot of heavy launching/drag racing then a twin disk system is what you really want if you want it to hold and last a while. And if I was doing the twin disk I'd pick up the Exedy Twin HD as it seems like a great reliable piece of good value for its' price. The single disks seem like a real mixed bag. I have noted a number of folks having high rpm lock out issues with the ACT pieces, which most of the time can be resolved with some pedal adjustment, but should you have to adjust your clutch way out just so you can shift at a high rpm? I know what I think, but maybe other folks don't mind it. If you choose the single route Exedy does make what seems to be a reliable piece for what it is. It'll hold more torque and hp than stock and seems to have less issues with high rpm lockout and engagement. I'm still trying to find a group of reviews on the CF clutch, but in the Mustang world I used to participte in they made a great DFX clutch that folks were having great success with on pretty high hp applications.
 

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The CF clutch was in my opinion a decent clutch, especially for the money, I think it was rated at 3100 but don't quote me. It doesnt grab as hard as a exedy or more race type clutch, it is designed to hold more power as the rpm's go higher, making it better suited for roll type racing or topend type cars. I will be getting a exedy dual disc since it seems it is pretty much tailored for the evo and has a lot of positive feedback from evo owners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I really appreciate the help that everyone has given!

Warrtalon, the reason I said it appeared as though everyone loves the ACT clutch is due to my Evom.net searches. If you review the Trans section you will see what I am talking about, most everyone over there that has that clutch raves about it.

Thanks again.
 

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I disagree with that, because many of us have complained. I guess you only saw the good replies. I had a 20-page thread myself complaining about it, and there have been many others. I find that most people who rave about it are people who don't ever race. A few do actually race, but not most, so they never know the difference.

Superfly, that doesn't make sense for a clutch to be built to hold more "power" as rpms go higher, because clutch strength is all based on FLYWHEEL torque. For us, as RPMs increase, our torque drops dramatically unless you have a huge turbo that spools very late and holds. You don't need any sort of clutch for "roll type racing," because there is very little stress on the clutch. You can run the stock clutch on the Evo with a GT35R if you want to as long as you never get on it except at high rpms when already rolling.
 

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If you look into the CFDF the way it is designed is that clamping force increases with rotational inertia. Like I stated it would not be beneficial for a evo, more suited to a higher hp honda or such.

It makes sense as I have felt the effect of weaker clutches giving out in high hp type cars, for example my friends ls/vtec with a t66 making around 460 whp with meth, the car initially has little torque but redlines at nearly 9k rpm. After the we built the motor and he broke it in he was using a act 2100, near 6k rpm where his tq was peaking the rpms would stall and the clutch would start slipping since it couldn't hold onto the flywheel with the massive torque spike, remember his hp graph looked like a linear line until around 5900rpms where vtec engaged and the turbo hit full boost where it resembled a stair step from around 300 whp to 460 whp in a very small amount of time. He installed a cfdf and the the rpm stall went away.

The cf only lasted for about 10000 miles since it wasn't really suited for that amount of hp and 9k rpm shifts, at which point he moved on to a 6 puck clutch, however, he ran several 10.7-9 e.t. pass's on the center force before it finally broke up.

This is really not beneficial to the original posters question, as the cf is clearly not suited to the evo and awd launches but it is a decent clutch for what it is designed for, mildly modified 300whp fwd/rwd cars.
 

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I have the Exedy Hyper Twin. And I love it. A tad grabby, but just right. Not to harsh on engagement, and pedal feel like stock. If or when it wears out, I will for sure get another one.
 

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I disagree with that, because many of us have complained. I guess you only saw the good replies. I had a 20-page thread myself complaining about it, and there have been many others. I find that most people who rave about it are people who don't ever race. A few do actually race, but not most, so they never know the difference.

Superfly, that doesn't make sense for a clutch to be built to hold more "power" as rpms go higher, because clutch strength is all based on FLYWHEEL torque. For us, as RPMs increase, our torque drops dramatically unless you have a huge turbo that spools very late and holds. You don't need any sort of clutch for "roll type racing," because there is very little stress on the clutch. You can run the stock clutch on the Evo with a GT35R if you want to as long as you never get on it except at high rpms when already rolling.
Clayton, when you say roll type racing do you mean rolling off the clutch as opposed to just letting it go? All this time i've been afraid to even roll it out at all. Would the stock clutch hold okay if I rolled it at like 4 or 5k?
 

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No, as in highway rolls...street racing. Not real racing...I just mean when you're already at higher rpm above the peak torque area where there is much less load.

Not sure what you mean by being afraid to "roll it out at all," sorry.
What I meant by that was rolling off the clutch real slow at a mid to high rpm (like a softer launch) as opposed to letting it out quicker (like in a hard launch). Does that even make a difference as far as how much strain your putting on it?
 

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That's called slipping the clutch. If you do that at lower rpms, it burns through the clutch and wears it out faster. Doing it hard and fast but with a slight slip will not be as bad but will have more potential for either spinning tires or hurting the drivetrain. I launch from 6k with a hard slip. If you try to launch from 4-5k, you will either bog (very slow but no harm done), or you will burn straight through the clutch and go immediately to 7k rpm while barely moving.
 

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If you try to launch from 4-5k, you will either bog (very slow but no harm done), or you will burn straight through the clutch and go immediately to 7k rpm while barely moving.
that has to vary based on what power you're making. I consistently launch mine right around 5k for autox, and rarely have any slip. usually a little wheel spin, then off we go.
 
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