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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just installed the aem wideband a/f gauge. the car seem on the lean side under normal cruising and idle. some where between 14.0 and 15.0 give or take. wot is still way rich so i'm not really worried i'm just wondering if this is normal. i do have intake and open filter plus upper i/c pipe and turboxs bypass valve. (and yes it blows back to intake like it should.) will be dynoflashed very soon. any feed back would be great. thanks.
 

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Yes, the ECU attempts to maintain stoich when in closed loop operation at low throttle and idle, which is 14.7:1. That's not lean, because you're not boosting. In open loop at high throttle, that's when your tuned maps kick in and is when you should be cognizant of AFRs. You want them in the low 11s on 91oct.
 

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I just installed mine recently, too. The sensor is towards the end of the DP since I wasn't sure where to put it for best clearance up near the o2. It's still better than using a tailsniffer like on a dyno. I have my gauge mounted on the steering column so that it's in my face while racing, and I have a separate feed to a serial connector that I use to connect to EvoScan on my laptop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
install is very easy. i had the people that istalled downpipe weld the bung in and install the sensor. sensor should be like 30 some inches from exuast outlet. with at least 10 degrees angle so moister doesn't ruin the sensor. my is pointed almost straight up and down on the top of the down pipe. gotta be before the cat though. but the directions cover all that. i highly recommend spending the money on this. it really looks cool to.
 

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Ya just to add to this...Just got mine installed also, install is just like you said and placement wise. Works perfect, was just about to post the same question about it running in the 14-15's at idle and low rpm crusining. Right now im running 93 oct gas and its at about 11.9's right before redline. Boosting 23 lbs!
 

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Sorry, not trying to hijack this thread, however should the AFR's bounce around a lot? What I mean is that mine bounces from 14.2-15.5 or so at idle and while cruising at low throttle.

When I go WOT my guage does not even register anymore, it goes to 10.0 and then --- or something like that.

Any similar situations? Could the bouncing be due to a spark plug not being gapped like the others?
 

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It should bounce at low throttle in closed loop, because the ECU is constantly searching for 14.7.

In open loop at WOT, it should register wherever you're tuned. If you're showing 10.0, then that means the gauge doesn't go below 10, and you're running richer than that, which is rich as hell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
there is a plug in the very corner on the pass. side of the fire wall. mine runs way rich at full boost as well i imagine its from fuel pump and no tune. i wish the wideband would have been my first mod.
 

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instead of starting a hole new thread this kinda falls in line with the subject here.....so I just got my BR TBE in today and I must say very nice but it needs a new hole in it. Now I have never played with stainless so any tips on what to use to weld the bung to the dp with would be great!
 

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instead of starting a hole new thread this kinda falls in line with the subject here.....so I just got my BR TBE in today and I must say very nice but it needs a new hole in it. Now I have never played with stainless so any tips on what to use to weld the bung to the dp with would be great!
You're talking about needing to weld a bung into the DP for your wideband? It's the same for any other exhaust. You need to place it the proper distance from the turbo (whatever is recommended by your brand), and make sure wherever you weld the bung gives the o2 sensor enough clearance when poking out.
 

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thanks Warr but I guess I need to better ask my question what type of "ugly stick" should I use I normally weld with a brass (copper) one but I'm not sure if that will stick to stainless I would use the new tig welder but I'm not very good with that yet and I would rather not blow through the dp......I hope thats better asked now
 

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eh there is a shop down the street from me my next door neighbor said he knows the owner and would most likely do it for free or just a couple dollars so I think I'll go that road :thumb: you always have to like when you know some one who knows some one and so on thanks for the replies though
 

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I would use the new tig welder but I'm not very good with that yet and I would rather not blow through the dp....
It should be TIG'ed. You might be able to get away with the copper/brass braising, but I don't know for sure. As far as I know here are no "sticks" (SMAW) for stainless.
I wish I had a TIG machine. :thumb:
 

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Seqenre_Tao



question did you guys run your wire through the passanger side of the car or did you put a hole in the firewall?

for the sensor itself there is a grommet in or beside the driveline tunnel that sits below the
dash assembly/shifter console. It is about at the end of your downpipe. It leads up inside the console for a hidden install.

The easy grommet to the motor compartment is way off to the side of the car on the passenger side. it is a little difficult to get to. about top of the glove box high and against the side of the body. I use it for pressure, boost gauge, but I don't know why you would use it for a wideband install.

btw, a regular old fashion muffler shop almost did it for free for me, but I gave the guy some money for the effort. (go in when the shop big wigs are not there)
 
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