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Everyone comes across one adjustment that has worked wonders for them... advancing/retarding timing a degree or so via cam gears, adjusting fuel pressure - something that finally put you in the "zone" where your car just pulls like it should. Any stories?
 

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The one thing I have learned is that the TurboXS HPBC is a combination ball and spring boost controller on the course adjust and a bleeder valve on the fine adjust. Just like the stock boost control solenoid is a bleeder valve, all bleeder type manual boost controllers tend to have boost fall off in the upper RPM's. With intelligent control of a solenoid via some of the reflash systems you can maintain boost on a bleeder....but a "dumb" bleeder (stock ECU or manual controller) don't work worth a damn! I am currently using the course adjust on the TurboXS HPBC alone without any input from the fine adjust and it holds boost just fine till redline. What sucks about this is the course adjust is about 1 psi for ever 1/4 turn of the adjustment! Very hard to get it set just right. I don't recommend the TurboXS HPBC to anyone, just get a Halman and you will be a lot happier :)

Keith
 

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I am using a Prfoc B spec II. I love it. It hits hard and hold within 1/2 psi all the way to red line. 20psi on 92 octane. It feels pretty dran nice. It took like 2 or three pulls to get it set right. But after that it is right on the money all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I guess I was referring more to fuel tuning, fuel curve adjustments, and stuff like that - as opposed to boost control. But boost control is helpful too. Anyone else?
 

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I have noticed on my EVO while looking at a wideband and datalogger is that I get the best results with my AFC by adding fuel. I am trying to get an 11.0:1 AFR from 3000 to red. I only start taking fuel out up in the 6600 to 7800 range where I take 7 out. I am adding up to 7 percent at the most. It will pull super hard from the 3000 to 5000 range where as before it didn't. I probably raised my power band up like 50-60hp and 40 or so ft/lbs. Big difference.
 

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big change

see i noticed a big difference with taking away fuel till redline. Also i just installed the avc-r and i love this boost controller. I suggest if you are in the market go with the avc-r.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: big change

evolutionized said:
see i noticed a big difference with taking away fuel till redline. Also i just installed the avc-r and i love this boost controller. I suggest if you are in the market go with the avc-r.
Love the location of your S-AFCII - Very stealthy.
 

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Yeah...thats a nice place for the AFC...did you have to pull the roof panel to get the wiring hidden and then run it down the A-pillar...which pillar did you go down...Driver or Pass?
 

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afc

yeah i popped off the sunglass holder and ran the wires down the passenger side pillar since the ecu is behind the glove box. Also there were some posts on evolutionm.net about installing afc and avc-r and how they take so long. Its BS cause i had both installed in about 3 hours.
 

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bpclements said:
I have noticed on my EVO while looking at a wideband and datalogger is that I get the best results with my AFC by adding fuel. I am trying to get an 11.0:1 AFR from 3000 to red. I only start taking fuel out up in the 6600 to 7800 range where I take 7 out. I am adding up to 7 percent at the most. It will pull super hard from the 3000 to 5000 range where as before it didn't. I probably raised my power band up like 50-60hp and 40 or so ft/lbs. Big difference.
Hi, would you mind posting your settings by RPM point? I am having some trouble getting my car tuned right. Also, did you change anything on the low throttle settings?
 

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I don't use the AFC anymore since I got the car dynoflashed. Anyway I wouldn't recommend using anyone elses settings because each car is differnt and will react differently to tuning. I'd put them up for you to check out, but I don't remember what they were since I zeroed it out when I did the dynoflash.
 

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low throttle i have from 800rpm -2600 rpm +8% then 3000rpm -7000rpm gradually going from -6% to -9%. then in the high rpm range i have 800-3000rpm gradually going from -4% to -8% then 3000-6200 rpm -13% then bring it back up to -5% the rest of the rpm range. The evo runs lean on idle and low rpm then rich as hell throughout the rest of the rpm range. i ran a 12.7 on stock exhaust 20psi clutch,afc,filter and buschur fmic with these settings
 

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If you ran a 12.7 with those little mods I would say that your settings are on point. I'd hook a wideband up to it to see what your AFRs look like. I'd say 11.5:1 is safe on 93 with 20psi.

I found my old settings. I only started adding fuel at 3000rpms with +7, 3600 +7, 4200 +4, 4800 +4, 5400 +3, 6000 -3, 6600 -7, 7200 -7, 7800 -3. These were tuned with a wideband for an AFR of 11.0:1 on 91 with 17psi at red. I was also running an HKS RS intake with these settings and you have to really add the fuel in because this intake leans out the AFR alot. My low throttle point was set to 65% and my high one at 70%. I also didn't touch any of the low settings since the ECU controls those in closed loop.
 

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I have my SAFCII zero'd out right now as well, needing to get on a w/b and get it tuned up to par. I think it would feel sooo much better then.:cry:
 

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This is more of backyard tuning I did. I installed 272/272 cams with adjustable cam gears in my car. I noticed a decent gain with them when i put them on, but nothing like I expected.
I went out one night with my tools, two friends and a stop watch. I found a long deserted stretch of road and did a couple pulls in 2nd to 3rd gear from 40mph up to 100mph and I timed it. I had some lumpiness in my idle when i started. My first pull was 9.2sec. I averaged the out time and back time to compensate for uphill/downhill, headwind/tailwind. My cams were at this point set at I/E 0/0. I figured the valve overlap was hindering my performance since my exhaust valve was opening slightly sooner than before and my intake valves taking longer to close because of the bigger cam this would allow some air to escape. I adjusted to a 0/-2 setting and did another pull. Average time was 8.7seconds, and I could feel the difference. I wanted more sense I had just made one correction. I then went to a -2/-2 setting. My resulting pass was an 9.1. Thinking the intake cam had "caught up" with the exhaust cam I adjust to a -2/-5 setting.
Why did I adjust just the exhaust cam? To keep one variable. If I adjusted both and got a different time, I wouldn't know which actually helped me. So I adjusted just the exhaust cam. I did another pull and cam back with an 8.5. Another very nice gain and she was pulling a lot easier now.
I wanted to try some more things out, so I adjusted to a -1/-5 setting, to see if I couldn't get the air in sooner (was my thinking). I did another pull and had an 8.6. I adjust back to the -2/-5 setting and did another pass (I know I just made a -2/-5 pass earlier), again an 8.5.

Thinking I had the car where I wanted I did one other adjustment to see if I could find anything else. I adjusted to -2/-4 and did another pull. 7.8seconds. I did one more pass to see if it was accurate and had a 7.8second pass. I then let the car idle for a while and cool down and noticed my lumpiness had gone away.

Overall I was quite impressed with how the car improved, I was not expecting that big of a gain out of it. If anyone where to buy a straight set of cams whether its 264/264 or 272/272 or 280/280, I would definetly recommend adjustable cam gears just so you can adjust for the valve overlap you are creating. An offset set of cams probably won't see as big of gains as I did just because of the timing of the valves opening and closing.

A few weeks later I went and got tuned with Al. I had some major boost problems, got those fixed and with my cams set the way they are I put down my 351whp and 375wtq numbers.
 
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