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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am seriously thinking about going with a set of these cams. I could get a set of 272/272's with springs and retainers for less than $500.

Anyone have any experience with them? I have seen vendors say good things about them..but they also sell them.

For the money...I am on the verge of giving them a shot.
 

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Great price from a great name, but I still have yet to see any results on customer cars, much less SUSTAINED and REPEATABLE results. I'd wait until there is more proof. Plus, $450 for GSC and Comp is still a steal for what ends up being 30whp/30wtq, and those cams are proven. HKS cams are proven, too, but they are more like $550.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I see your logic...but, somebody has to be first. I am going to go with these cams...for the price, I think it is worth the risk. I was wondering if anyone had these cams and what their experiences have been.
 

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I haven't seen any on any forum yet, and even one of my sponsors is pushing them, but they have no results yet either. I will let you know any and all info I hear, because it would be great for the community if these cams were reliable and powerful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I bought a set of the Brian Crower Stage II cams, the 272/272 style combo. I got a smoking deal ( $289 shipped) from Maperformance out of Minnesota. I saw their ad on DSMtuners looking to see if DSM'er's have been using these cams. There are a bunch of people using them and they are showing promising results. I felt the price was low enough that I was willing to give them a shot.

Anyway, I won't be getting them installed for a while because I refuse to drive my car in the winter because I enjoy not having to use the handy dandy blue tipped wrench on my car ;) .

I plan on dynoing the car and running it at the track before I install them to show a before and after......I hope I can have that much self control. Plus, with not driving my car in the winter, I still have serious break in miles to do on my new clutch, so that will help.

I'll keep everyone posted.
 

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Ah, you refuse not to drive it in the winter?!! Man, the whole point of the Evo is that you can drive it anytime and anywhere. We've had 3 blizzards here in Colorado Springs, but I still drive mine daily. I wouldn't be able to stand not driving this thing all winter. I race the hell out of it, but it's still my daily driver, and I mean DAILY driver.
 

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I wish I could be more like Warrtalon in this respect. I always get a car with intentions of driving it all the time and then it usually sits more often then not because I drive my beater all over the place. Now, my mustang should sell this weekend and come late spring/summer I'll be hunting down a DAILY(well, at least nice days :) ) driver(EVO) that will make my daily commute a bit more fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You must have had good experiences with salt and cars.....the salt totally DESTROYS the metal on the car. I had a 1997 GSX that drove in the winter for one year....I could not break any of the bolts under the car loose after that!! I had to use a torch for everything!!! I want the MR to last more than three years, so yes, it won't be driven here in the winter.

As far as daily driven....I just moved from California. I drove the EVO every day 70 miles to work round trip. I had 24,000 miles in one year. I drove to Arizona and Montana with the car ( Good part: Hours of triple digit speeds in the desert :thumb: Bad part: no cruise control to keep me in check :thumbdown ) I love to drive the car. Not driving it everyday makes the times I do drive it more sweet.

I love the car and it is my "fun" car. Driving cars in the winter will definitely shorten it's life span. I want to be able to work on the car without having to replace all of the bolts every damn time.

Working on your car with hand tools including turbo removal is sweet. Having snapped bolts, bolts seized with rust, having to use a torch to remove exhaust bolts that snap sucks balls.

Plus, I have a nice winter car ( 1999 Toyota 4Runner) So why mess my car up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I got a before dyno....but I don't know what to think of it...the torque seems way to high. The AFR looks ok...but I am baffled by the high torque number. It is on a dynojet.

Mods are: TTP email flash, Works drop in filter, 255 fuel pump, ported/coated stock manifold, coated E bay o2 housing, lower intercooler pipe, coated 2.75" down pipe, test pipe, 3" catback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I thought I had it set for 22 at the peak....but after I the test pipe on.....the boost pegged the gauge. I am still using the stock gauge ( Stupid) But I never had a problem with the high boost before. I figured something was not right. I don't want to get a boost controller...but it looks like I'll have to.
 

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I agree 100% on this. Boost was way higher than you thought it was. The top of the gauge is 22 psi, but if you were already running that before the test pipe on a stock cat, you are probably peaking closer to 27 psi. If you were running a good high flow replacement cat before the swap to a test pipe, you are probably peaking around 25 psi now.... in either case you need to lower it a bit!

Keith
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have had the cams in for about 1,000 miles and so far they are great....but I am still having boost issues. Now the boost will not go above 15 psi. That being said, I am working out the issues and I am scheduled for a tune with AMS in July. I will have dyno sheets at that time as well.

I can say the idle on the cams is not much different than stock...the new idle is just a hair choppier. I don't have any stalling problems and the power ( Even at the low boost) is impressive.

I'll scan the dyno sheets after the tune..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, for what it is worth, I was tuned and dynoed at AMS ( Great Shop, Great people, great service). I ended up with 334 awhp and 312 awtq at 22 psi. You can see on the chart before the tune was 294/ 279. I was happy with the numbers. I asked the tuner about the BC cams compared to the HKS and he told me that they had not tested them, but, in my car's case, it appeared they made a little less peak power than the HKS would have. Not bad for about $250 less.

My mods: Evo IX turbo, 272/272 Brian Crower Cams, ETS 3.5 intercooler, ETS lower intercooler pipe, Ebay O2 housing, Works 2.75 Downpipe, Works Resonated testpipe, Tanabe Med. Cat back, 255 fuel pump, Cone intake filter.
 

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Yeah, that's pretty disappointing with all those mods, but it's hard to say if the cams are holding it back or something else. The IX turbo, ETS FMIC, ETS LICP, SS O2, and FP are all good. The Works exhaust bits aren't the best for power, nor is the Tanabe cat-back, but I don't think they'd make a big difference.

Do you know what your boost was on this 334whp run? With WTQ of only 312, it looks like your peak boost was fairly low (20psi?).

Also, instead of comparing with HKS, it's best to compare with GSC and Comp, because they are both cheaper than HKS by $100 or more but make the same power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It was at 22 psi. I am not disappointed in the least. This was the power I was looking for. I like the Works stuff for the fit and finish...the Tanabe is so I don't look or feel like a 15 year old driving my car. The droning of most other exhausts gets old very quickly. So I lose some power, the trade off is worth it for me.

On this dyno, another Evo 8 with different mods ( fuel injectors, 272/272 HKS cams, no IX turbo. other stuff basically the same) made 317 awhp and 324 awtq. They told me my car made about what a comparably modded Evo IX would make on this dyno. Comparing dynos in different areas is pointless....I am going to track it in a couple of weeks and I'll see how I improved there.
 

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Yeah, that's the same thing I was saying about the exhaust bits. Not the most powerful, but also far off enough to really be a hindrance. 22psi is very surprising, because with 22psi, your peak torque should be as high or higher than peak whp unless they specifically detuned the peak boost area with low timing.

Comparing different dynos is not pointless when you're already intimately familiar with what cars dyno and trap on many different dynos, including the AMS dyno. I am speaking from tons of experience on seeing what cars dyno and trap at AMS, Buschur, and many other dynos of all types, correction factors, altitudes, etc. I have personally dyno'd on 5-6 different dynos and know how my traps speeds compare to each. Based off all that knowledge, I consider 334whp disappointing for those mods although not terrible by any means. Now, if you trap 115, then I will give a big thumbs up and change my mind, but I expect that you will trap 112-113.

When you hit 12.705 @ 109.32, what mods did you have and what dyno numbers did you have? I was going to assume it was the same setup as the 294whp/279wtq setup (current mods untuned), but that's a big assumption. I checked your timeslip for a date reference, but it shows an old 12.9 @ 105 from late November, hah (just like my timeslip)..
 
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