Just Got A Brand New 05 Evo. And I Already Managed To Get Into A Fender-bender At Less Than 5 Mph, But Thats Not The Worst Part After That Small Bump On The Right Front Of The Car My Turbo Stopped Working A Complete Loss In Power. I Took It To The Mitsubishi Dealer I Bought It At And They Said Everything Was Ok And Just Put A New Bov On It . Now It Did Fix The Turbo But Now It Feels Like At 80% Not Fast Like It Used To Be , Also When I Redline Between 5,000 -7,000 Rpms Climb Slow.. I Also Notice When I Open My Hood To Let The Car Cool Down At Idle The Downpipe Is Glowing Red Yikes?? Is This Normal?? Somebody Help Me Out I Am So Bummed My New Ride Is Already Got Issues
Brand New Evo Problems??
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1) Turn off your Caps LockOMASERONE said:
2) I've never heard of any of those problems occurring. Since you can't prove butt dyno feel to the dealer, you may need to get it dyno'd. I dyno'd 248awhp on a Dynojet, so you should be close to that.
3) Was the fender-bender possibly a cause of damage that started the boost problem?
4) Why did they replace the BOV? Did they explain that? I can't see how they knew it was bad or how it could have been causing the problem.
5) Is your intake snorkel fastened down?
No they didnt explain why they replaced the bov. Yes my snorkel has the two plastic fasteners on it. Ever since the fender bender the car ran like shi*, it was realted to the crash i beleive and i told them exactly what happened so they would know where to look.
I noticed today that one of the rubber 1/4 inch lines that runs to the actuator sensor (i think its the actuator sensor under the airbox with two lines ) was no hooked up . I saw that the hose clamp was pushed back half way on the hose so i beleive that they didnt hook it back up when troubleshooting it. I hooked it up and feel a little boost in power but still feel like the turbo could spool quicker any help???
I noticed today that one of the rubber 1/4 inch lines that runs to the actuator sensor (i think its the actuator sensor under the airbox with two lines ) was no hooked up . I saw that the hose clamp was pushed back half way on the hose so i beleive that they didnt hook it back up when troubleshooting it. I hooked it up and feel a little boost in power but still feel like the turbo could spool quicker any help???
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Wow, no way. I suggest you take everything apart and check ALL the vaccuum lines. I would remove the battery, snorkel, intake box, and fan, then verify that all vaccuum lines are connected and clamped down. Then, verify that all the BOV connections (3) are properly installed and clamped (2 silicone hoses, 1 vaccuum hose).OMASERONE said:
Ok i took everything apart and no luck , everything was tight and clamped down . I still have that lag in the turbo and my car is stock , the motor seems to be running really hot also not on my temp guage in the car but when i pop the hood the turbo elbow seems to be glowing red and my car idle is ruff any help guys or can someone recomend a good tuner on the west coast i can get my ride fixed?
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what kinda of turbo lag... there supposed to...
anyone else with me on this, but the ruff idle may be knock sensor off balance... anyone agree? take a pic of the glowing red stuff to.
anyone else with me on this, but the ruff idle may be knock sensor off balance... anyone agree? take a pic of the glowing red stuff to.
I know it is supposed to lag but not as much as mine it feels so slow i got beat by a stock wrx so i know im not running at full capacity. My car has 4,000 miles and is stock i have had it at 2 different mitsubishi dealers and they both claim the car is ok. I need a real evo expert to look at my car i guess??
what lag?? maybe youre shifting a little too early 
as for the glowing downpipe thats normal after running it hard specially at high rpms.when you mean right front are you inside or outside the car?some really clear and accurate details would really help also
as for the glowing downpipe thats normal after running it hard specially at high rpms.when you mean right front are you inside or outside the car?some really clear and accurate details would really help also I am shifting at about 6,800 rpm, the car just feels like its not pulling hard before i could here the turbo "huff" the air in into the intercooler now its not as loud. And as for my glowing red downpipe its glowing after a 5 min ride home from work and i drive it easy no redline. I do live in las vegas where it is 110 outside but i still feel my car is running too hot. When i took it to mitsubishi they gave it back to me and replaced the bov...
After a few days of being pissed off that they didnt fix it i tried to troubleshoot it myself.
i noticed that there is a sensor below the airbox with two 1/4 inch rubber hoses . someone at my work told me thats the actuator sensor for the turbo is this correct??
one of the lines was off the sensor with the metal hose clamp half way down the hose meaning that mitsubishi didnt put it back together right .. Could this line while it was disconnected cause any damage to my turbo , wastegate ???
After a few days of being pissed off that they didnt fix it i tried to troubleshoot it myself.
i noticed that there is a sensor below the airbox with two 1/4 inch rubber hoses . someone at my work told me thats the actuator sensor for the turbo is this correct??
one of the lines was off the sensor with the metal hose clamp half way down the hose meaning that mitsubishi didnt put it back together right .. Could this line while it was disconnected cause any damage to my turbo , wastegate ???
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OMASERONE said:
That is the boost control solenoid. Is it the bottom line that is off?
If it is your wastegate is not seeing the right boost to open.
It was the bottom line i hooked it back up and it feels faster just not 100% more like 80% i can tell the loss in power it doesnt pull hard thru my gears . It was disconnected for about 3 0r 4 days do you think that could have caused any damage to my turbo or wastegate?
Ok guys my evo is starting to feel really slow . My cars lags through the gears i could really use some advice on what to do ? Take it back to mitsubishi for the 3rd time?? Have an import builder look at it? I got my hands up in the air right now i dont wanna have to pay to fix this car i just got it in june brand new 05 all under wanrranty all stock. Any help evotuners???
Your downpipe is glowing from excessive heat. I wouldn't be surprised to see that your arm that opens up the valve for the acuator is bent. This would prevent the flap for the wastegate opening thus spinning the hot air and making it even hotter and making your downpipe red.
That would also solve your loss of power issue too. Goodluck
That would also solve your loss of power issue too. Goodluck
Thanks for the tip can anyone tell me how i can check the arm for the actuator to see if it is bent or is this something that has to be done by mitsubishi? And how much damage have i caused if this arm is bent ?Please stick with me guys i need to fix this problem so i can be taking down those sti's
Ok fellas i drove to mitsu today and spoke with the general manager he didnt seem that concerned with my issues, so i called the 1-800 line for customer care at mitsu and next thursday i have an appointment to get the car fixed properly. They say they will be involed every step of the way and want me to be satisfied hmmm? Well im crossing my fingers and hope that these techs over there can fix my ride
Ok bud, I'm thinking it's your intercooler piping. it could have been damaged in the collision.
I'd try the following...
pressurize the intake system and verify that it will hold boost (you want it to hold at least 25 psi with minimal leak down)
that will eliminate any vacuum problems from incorrect line routing.
To verify the wastegate actuator arm, snake a vacuum line down there to the top of the wastegate actuator and put a little pressure on it, not much (I'm talking like 10-15 psi here) and verify the wastegate arm is moving, it will be easy to see since the stock arm has that little sleeve right after the valve assembly.
Do you have a boost gauge? you should know how much boost you're getting as that will help you out tremendously. You can also perform the diagnostic testing for the wastegate solenoid if those previous two tests work. Let me know if they don't and I can walk you throught the solenoid test.
I'd try the following...
pressurize the intake system and verify that it will hold boost (you want it to hold at least 25 psi with minimal leak down)
that will eliminate any vacuum problems from incorrect line routing.
To verify the wastegate actuator arm, snake a vacuum line down there to the top of the wastegate actuator and put a little pressure on it, not much (I'm talking like 10-15 psi here) and verify the wastegate arm is moving, it will be easy to see since the stock arm has that little sleeve right after the valve assembly.
Do you have a boost gauge? you should know how much boost you're getting as that will help you out tremendously. You can also perform the diagnostic testing for the wastegate solenoid if those previous two tests work. Let me know if they don't and I can walk you throught the solenoid test.
Thanks man i am very pleased that your intrested in helping me! Can you tell me how i can pressurize the system to see if it holds 25psi and how i can get to the wastegate and check that out, this is my first turbochareged car and im used to the b series honda's.
I Think your right cause really thats all that could have been damaged cause it was on the right front corner of the car when i bumped someone.
I Think your right cause really thats all that could have been damaged cause it was on the right front corner of the car when i bumped someone.
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OMASERONE said:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Take off the underside platic panels to get to the turbo/wastegate easier. It takes a little while, but it's just a bunch of plastic tabs/screws.
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