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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
I have an 03 EVO, with about 28,000 miles, bought it with a bit over 8,000 miles. It is stock except for a cool air intake and BOV. It has a problem of stalling, mostly coming to stops or when you slow down to pull in to parking lots, etc. There was a time it just shut off while the car was in 4th gear going through town, RPM's just fell off-line, rolling start then shut off, 4 times in a half mile distance.
I have had it to the dealer about 5 times, and each time the codes show crank and cam position sensors. The first time the sensors were checked, cam sensor was cleaned. The second time both sensors were replaced, and still stalled on 15 different occasions after that with no light. Recently the cam sensor and housing was replaced, and again the car stalled the next day after pushing in the clutch to down shift and coasting to a stop.
So, does anyone have a clue what is happening?? :confused: Thanks! Rick
 

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I just have to ask; are you recirculating the Greddy BOV?
Have you tried switching back to the stock intake? When I added a high flow filter I had to richen things quite a bit at lower RPM's with my AFC.
If you've tried all that, you might want to go to the three biggies of engine problems; fuel, timing, ignition.
 

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Hey man i had the same problem when i got my intake
all you can do is get the hks EDIS TYPE K that's the only
one that works right your car's rpm will drop to like 300(rpm)
but it wont kill the car this will only happen if your in traffic or
high reving but 90% of the time it will catch at 1200(rpm).

there is a second option spend some money and get a AEM or any other ecu where you have full idel control. But if your going to run stock the hks EDIS will work just fine i've
had mine for a while and it works like a champ.

*note doing a reflash will not work to change idel setting's i've had mine reflashed over 10 times in the idel setting's and it just dont work right.*
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I bought it with the AEM filter already on it. I don't have the stock intake. But I am going to take a look at the 3 biggies tho! Thanks!
 

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This is a known common problem with CAI's and BOV's. Return everything to stock and see if the problem persists. Most people have to get the ecu reflashed for a CAI to work right.
 

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MitsuEVO said:
It is stock except for a cool air intake and BOV.
That's your problem right there. I wish people would stop doing these as their first mods just to sound good. Sacrificing power for sound/looks is not what Evo owners should be doing...

I say go with a K&N panel filter and the stock BOV, and I bet you will run perfectly (though factory rich). If you must keep those 2 unnecessary parts on, then you will need a flash to tune them in properly. There's no reason to upgrade the BOV until you increase boost...
 

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MitsuEVO said:
The CAI and BOV were on it when I bought it. Where do I get the ECU flashed to tune them in??
I know they were; I was referring to the original owner. This is probably part of the reason why he sold it, but lucky for you, nothing is wrong with the car.

One option is to you remove your ECU and send it to [email protected] or to TurboTrix. They flash it according to your mods and send it back. You then re-install it and go about your business. This is the more expensive version, though, and is not the best way to go about it. If you have to keep those 2 useless mods and don't plan on doing other mods (exhaust/boost), then do the flash. If you are going to do exhaust/boost, then do the flash afterwards. If you want to run perfectly right now, put those 2 mods back to stock, if you have the stock parts.
 

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Is the BOV recirculated, meaning is there a hose from it back to the intake pipe?
Also, consider an AFC-II. If it really is the intake, it can straighten it out quick, and handle tuning needs in the future with no down time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Warrtalon said:
I know they were; I was referring to the original owner. This is probably part of the reason why he sold it, but lucky for you, nothing is wrong with the car.

One option is to you remove your ECU and send it to [email protected] or to TurboTrix. They flash it according to your mods and send it back. You then re-install it and go about your business. This is the more expensive version, though, and is not the best way to go about it. If you have to keep those 2 useless mods and don't plan on doing other mods (exhaust/boost), then do the flash. If you are going to do exhaust/boost, then do the flash afterwards. If you want to run perfectly right now, put those 2 mods back to stock, if you have the stock parts.

I am in the process of changing out the exhaust with a header back system. Waiting for the down pipe and cat back portion.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
turbolarry said:
Is the BOV recirculated, meaning is there a hose from it back to the intake pipe?
Also, consider an AFC-II. If it really is the intake, it can straighten it out quick, and handle tuning needs in the future with no down time.
I believe I saw a line going to the intake pipe, but I'll verify. Also, how easy is it to adjust the AFC-II??
 
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