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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I'm new on this website and I jux had a few things to say if anybody could guide me in the right direction. First of all, I have been having a few problems for awhile nows. My current high end power is lagging or not there at all. Around 5-6k, the power lags and it is also making a vacuum, suction noise. To me, it sounds like something is loose and not fully connected to complete the power usage. I researched online and it said something about a obstructed air outlet duct from compressor to the intake manifold. I'm not sure if that could help my present situation but help me out here. hehe Also, another problem I've ben having is engine stalling while slowing down to a stop. Its been doing that ever since I installed my Jdm Mr BOV. But it could also be because of my turbo timer. When the engine dies during movement, its extremely dangerous because it happens so suddenly and there is NO power steering of course. I've had close encounters to where I was cornering fast AND braking and all of a sudden the engine stallled. haha So, I of course had to react fast and Turn the steering wheel hard! I got curious and researched online; it came up with a cause which was high boost pressure triggering ignition cutout switch. A remedy was given to the cause and that would be to check the wastegate and actuator operation. Also replace the faulty parts as required. Therefore, i'mma need more help and a detailed answer then that. :) Other then that, i'm also having a problem with the intercooler water sprayer. I'm pretty sure it has been damaged and can't maintain water capacity whenever I pour more water in it. It has a leak meaning it leaks from beloe everytime i fill it up. So, I was wondering if that could be a major problem if the intercooler needed cooling or could it be connnected to my previous mentioned problems mentioned above.

Please help me with any suggestions or remedies possible. Thanks!
 

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Easy stuff:

1) Fasten your intake snorkel with both clips. That will solve the first problem. By intake snorkel, I mean the plastic funnel that sucks in air from OUTSIDE THE CAR and sends it straight to the stock airbox. I think you misunderstood the info you read and thought it was referring to the intake manifold or compressor inlet. It's really just your actual INTAKE inlet. It's a plastic piece that attaches to the airbox and then clips on to the front of the engine bay. My guess is you are using this part but lost or broke your clips. You can get 2 from the lining of your trunk or buy some at an auto parts store.

2) Stalling is caused usually by BOVs that vent to atmosphere or untuned intakes. Due to #1, I'm guessing you have the stock intake, and I know your JDM MR DV is a fully recirculating one unless you are trying to run it in VTA mode. Are you? If so, then put it back how it's supposed to be just like stock. If you do have it recirculating like stock, then it shouldn't be stalling, because that is a great BOV. However, if you're recirculating it, and it only started stalling after installing it...then the logical answer would be to return to stock and see if the problem persists. If it does, then the JDM MR DV is not the problem, but rather your installation messed something up. If it goes away, then either that JDM MR DV is faulty, or it just doesn't work well with your car.

3) The IC sprayer is useless, so don't even bother messing with it. If it leaks out, you have a leak...right? Either the reservoir is busted, or there's a hole in a line, or a hose is not connected properly. Hah, no, there is no worry about needing to COOL the FMIC. 05/06 Evos don't even have it, because it doesn't really do anything. Find the hole and fix it if you really want to, but I'd just forget about it and stop filling it up.
 

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Warrtalon said:
Easy stuff:

1) Fasten your intake snorkel with both clips. That will solve the first problem. By intake snorkel, I mean the plastic funnel that sucks in air from OUTSIDE THE CAR and sends it straight to the stock airbox. I think you misunderstood the info you read and thought it was referring to the intake manifold or compressor inlet. It's really just your actual INTAKE inlet. It's a plastic piece that attaches to the airbox and then clips on to the front of the engine bay. My guess is you are using this part but lost or broke your clips. You can get 2 from the lining of your trunk or buy some at an auto parts store.

2) Stalling is caused usually by BOVs that vent to atmosphere or untuned intakes. Due to #1, I'm guessing you have the stock intake, and I know your JDM MR DV is a fully recirculating one unless you are trying to run it in VTA mode. Are you? If so, then put it back how it's supposed to be just like stock. If you do have it recirculating like stock, then it shouldn't be stalling, because that is a great BOV. However, if you're recirculating it, and it only started stalling after installing it...then the logical answer would be to return to stock and see if the problem persists. If it does, then the JDM MR DV is not the problem, but rather your installation messed something up. If it goes away, then either that JDM MR DV is faulty, or it just doesn't work well with your car.

3) The IC sprayer is useless, so don't even bother messing with it. If it leaks out, you have a leak...right? Either the reservoir is busted, or there's a hole in a line, or a hose is not connected properly. Hah, no, there is no worry about needing to COOL the FMIC. 05/06 Evos don't even have it, because it doesn't really do anything. Find the hole and fix it if you really want to, but I'd just forget about it and stop filling it up.
#1 I agree 100%

#2 I agree 95 %.... should point out that he may have installed the MR BOV backwards (it is easy to do) and caused problems that way.

#3 I disagree strongly. Evaporitive cooling is significant with the water sprayer. Also, if over filled the extra fluid leaks out through the overflow line and dumps under the car. The "filler neck" area is supposed to stay empty while the reservoir area is full of water.

Keith
 

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Thanks for the remedy advice!

hey guys..thanks for guiding me on what to do...haha actually the intake inlet is loose with no clips. maybe that is why! hahhaha The BOV, I will try and see what I can do with that also. It COULD be a faulty!! But since I was on the intake question. I heard that its not very good to drive without the filter in place. But I have done it temporary before. Do you all know if it is beneficial, I mean it DOES sound niceee. But lets say if I were to drive like that from place to place for a day? Let me know what's up Thanks
 

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1) In you first post, you were fine, but in this 2nd post, the ghetto talk was unbearable. I edited everything into proper English. Just please be sure to speak (type) properly in future posts. We'd love to have you here, but we have a certain decorum we like to maintain.

2) No, it's not MAYBE, it _IS_ why you're having the loud whistle and loss of boost right at 6k rpm. Before typing your response, you should have already been out to the car snagging clips from the trunk liner and putting them in the intake snorkel. The moment you do this, your car will run like a raped ape.

3) On the BOV, switch back to stock. See if it still happens. Do it now.

4) Whoa, say what? You ran without your filter??? I don't think you'd have to HEAR that it's not very good to drive without a filter...it should be 100% common sense that running without a filter is unbelievable dangerous. If something gets sucked in and damages your MAF, your car is DONE!! Yeah, you can buy an entire MAF to replace it, but until you get one, your car will not run hardly at all. Do not EVER under ANY CIRCUMSTANCE run without an intake filter.

Keith, the testing done on that sprayer has shown no gains in many cases on the dyno and track. Have you seen evidence to the contrary?
 

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Warrtalon said:
Keith, the testing done on that sprayer has shown no gains in many cases on the dyno and track. Have you seen evidence to the contrary?
On my old 03 EVO when I was close to stock it made around a 5 wheel HP difference between no spray, and spray (not auto spray, me holding down the spray button.... auto spray didn't do much).... so around half the gains you see when going from a high flow cat to a test pipe.

I would suspect that the more efficient your intercooler the less effective the water spray becomes, that 5 wheel HP difference was on the stock FMIC.

Keith

PS: That was on a dynapack AWD dyno that reads very similar to a dynojet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
open header/manifold

Warrtalon said:
1) In you first post, you were fine, but in this 2nd post, the ghetto talk was unbearable. I edited everything into proper English. Just please be sure to speak (type) properly in future posts. We'd love to have you here, but we have a certain decorum we like to maintain.

2) No, it's not MAYBE, it _IS_ why you're having the loud whistle and loss of boost right at 6k rpm. Before typing your response, you should have already been out to the car snagging clips from the trunk liner and putting them in the intake snorkel. The moment you do this, your car will run like a raped ape.

3) On the BOV, switch back to stock. See if it still happens. Do it now.

4) Whoa, say what? You ran without your filter??? I don't think you'd have to HEAR that it's not very good to drive without a filter...it should be 100% common sense that running without a filter is unbelievable dangerous. If something gets sucked in and damages your MAF, your car is DONE!! Yeah, you can buy an entire MAF to replace it, but until you get one, your car will not run hardly at all. Do not EVER under ANY CIRCUMSTANCE run without an intake filter.

Keith, the testing done on that sprayer has shown no gains in many cases on the dyno and track. Have you seen evidence to the contrary?
hmm..i was wondering if the same method on a all motor car would be the same on a turbocharged vehicle. Opening the manifold or removing the exhaust system. Let me know. Oh and also, replacing my filter with a k&n filter would just plain save me money from buying a whole new intake system, am I right? Would the sound change also? thanks
 

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No reason to mess with the intake at all. Please do not ask me if it will change the sound - mods are not for sound; they are for going faster. If you care about things like sound, I have to bite my tongue and let others answer. A drop-in filter adds a few horses, but it also won't filter dirt as well as the stock filter.

What do you mean about opening the manifold or removing the exhaust system? What method are you referring to that works on an all motor car? On our turbo'd Evos, removing as much exhaust as you can frees up power and spool time, but I thought you need some backpressure on N/A motors in order to make torque (could be wrong).
 

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yangs4ever4g63 said:
hmm..i was wondering if the same method on a all motor car would be the same on a turbocharged vehicle. Opening the manifold or removing the exhaust system.
The basic principal is the same; make the engine breath easier. We can't really remove the manifold, but the more you can open it up right after the turbo the better. That's why exhaust work is the first mod. Three inch systems will fow plenty. If you absolutely have to, you can run an open down pipe for quater mile passes, but the long term effects are all yours (whatever they are:confused: ). Anything less is an open turbine housing that will melt something.

Warrtalon said:
... I thought you need some backpressure on N/A motors in order to make torque .
Back pressure is bad for any motor, even N.A.'s. The need for some back pressure is an old timers myth. Turbo Magazine's last issue had a whole write up on how it's the right diameters and lenghts of the primaries that relieves back pressure, maintains good exhaust velosity for scavaging, and harness the motor's exahust resonance that needs to be considered. You just can't hog it out to reduce back pressure and expect to work like on our cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
better safe then sorry

turbolarry said:
The basic principal is the same; make the engine breath easier. We can't really remove the manifold, but the more you can open it up right after the turbo the better. That's why exhaust work is the first mod. Three inch systems will fow plenty. If you absolutely have to, you can run an open down pipe for quater mile passes, but the long term effects are all yours (whatever they are:confused: ). Anything less is an open turbine housing that will melt something.



Back pressure is bad for any motor, even N.A.'s. The need for some back pressure is an old timers myth. Turbo Magazine's last issue had a whole write up on how it's the right diameters and lenghts of the primaries that relieves back pressure, maintains good exhaust velosity for scavaging, and harness the motor's exahust resonance that needs to be considered. You just can't hog it out to reduce back pressure and expect to work like on our cars.
Oh ok, I understand nows. I think I am better safe then sorry to just buy a aftermarket full exhaust system. Turbo back seems to be best to buy? Although cat-back is optional? I've heard that turbo back isn't legal to be used commonly? Well, its too soon to be deciding what kind of exhaust system and what kind I'd like. I was going to aim for "AMS". I basically just want a good decent loud high pitch effect. The only thing i'm confused about is when I do actually choose to buy an exhaust system. It has so many options as to whether to buy a test pipe, a cat and downpipes. It would seem logical to buy the expensive one that has everything but that's just my suggestion. advice anybody?
 

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You actually WANT a loud, HIGH PITCH exhaust? That's probably the first time I've ever heard an Evo owner say that. Most Evo owners prefer to stay far, far away from anything remotely sounding like a Honda bumblebee.

It seems logical to buy the expensive one? I'm not sure if you're saying everything backwards on purpose or if it's a language barrier. It seems logical to NOT buy the expensive one, but rather get what makes the most power while being light and affordable. All turboback exhausts have a downpipe, cat replacement, and cat-back, so there's not much to choose. YOu just choose test pipe or hi-flow cat. AMS makes a great exhaust, but it costs $1000, which is crazy high.
 

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Buy what works for you. :thumb:
Start from the ends and work your way towards the motor; catback, test pipe/HFC, downpipe.
Three inch, mandrel bent, with no diameter changes is what's going to flow. Loudness and look is up to you.
 

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I see a pattern here.

Warrtalon your a comedian brother. i agree with you when some of our evo owners ask questions and you stop and think " Are you serious"? ROFL

then we have

Turbolarry that tries to give the actual thread starter some respect and give him some advice.:thumb:

you guys are to much. i just dont understand how evolutionm.net has so many people on their website when we possess a stronger background. Once again thanks for everyone for always trying to help one another out. :rocks:

If you want a louder bov which it seems like you want then get rid of your jdm mr bov and look for another bov like a type rs or maybe a tial bov. I apologize although i must admit most evo owners see the car for its potential and how well the vehicle can perform with such a small investment. Not the bling factor. Now in regards to exhaust system yes if you would like to take it out to the track you can take off the exhaust, leave the downpipe connected Buschur racing makes a great turbo back exhaust that'll basically give you the most for your money and you probably wouldnt see much higher numbers if you disconnected the exhaust anyway. It's somewhat of a loud exhaust with a deep tone to it. Because our vehicles are turbo charged your not going to have that loud high pitch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Safety First!

EVILAWD said:
I see a pattern here.

Warrtalon your a comedian brother. i agree with you when some of our evo owners ask questions and you stop and think " Are you serious"? ROFL

then we have

Turbolarry that tries to give the actual thread starter some respect and give him some advice.:thumb:

you guys are to much. i just dont understand how evolutionm.net has so many people on their website when we possess a stronger background. Once again thanks for everyone for always trying to help one another out. :rocks:

If you want a louder bov which it seems like you want then get rid of your jdm mr bov and look for another bov like a type rs or maybe a tial bov. I apologize although i must admit most evo owners see the car for its potential and how well the vehicle can perform with such a small investment. Not the bling factor. Now in regards to exhaust system yes if you would like to take it out to the track you can take off the exhaust, leave the downpipe connected Buschur racing makes a great turbo back exhaust that'll basically give you the most for your money and you probably wouldnt see much higher numbers if you disconnected the exhaust anyway. It's somewhat of a loud exhaust with a deep tone to it. Because our vehicles are turbo charged your not going to have that loud high pitch.
HEY, THANKS FOR YOUR ADVICE AND INPUT. I BELIEVE MY BLOW OFF VALVE COULD BE ON BACKWARDS OR INSTALLED INCORRECTLY SINCE MY CAR SEEMS TO STALL AND BARELY RUN SOMETIMES WHEN I AM COMING TOWARDS A STOP! WHICH.. IS DANGEROUS CAUSE THEN THE CAR TURNS OFF AND THERE IS NO POWER STEERING WHATSOEVER. ALSO, IT WOULDN'T BE A GREAT COMBINATION SINCE I ALSO HAVE A TURBO TIMER IN EFFECT. AS LONG AS I FIX THAT PROBLEM AND IT NEVER STALLS AGAIN, I'LL KEEP THE JDM MR BOV AND PROBABLY JUST BUY A K&N FILTER REPLACEMENT LATER. LIKE I SAID; I'M GOING TO MAKE MY EVO SAFE FIRST BEFORE AFTERMARKET MODS. I'VE NOTICES MY CAR HASN'T BEEN THE SAME AS BEFORE. I KNOW THAT I'D NEED A ALIGNMENT SINCE I HAVN'T GOTTEN ONE SINCE SUSPENSION TUNING. MY CAR DOESN'T RUN AS SMOOTH AS IT DID BEFORE. MY EXHAUST SOMEHOW SOUNDS LOUDER MAKING ME SEEM NOW THAT IT HAS A EXHAUST LEAK OR IT COULD BE THAT MY FILTERS WORN OUT? I ALSO NEED TO GET MY CAR SERVICES AS IN LUBRICATING EVERYTHING AND REFILLING FLUIDS. MY INTERCOOLER WATER SPRAYER HAS A LEAK BECAUSE EVERYTIME I TRY TO FILL IT UP, IT JUST LEAKS BACK TO THE FLOOR. A FEW BOLTS THAT HOLD THE PLASTIC PARTS THAT THE INTERCOOLER IS STANDING ON IS MISSING AND LOOSE. ENGINE NOISES ARE BECOMING NOTICEABLE NOW, HEARING WHIINES AND NOISES I HAVN'T HEARD BEFORE WHEN I FIRST RECEIVED THE CAR. MY CD PLAYER DOESN'T READ OR PLAY CD'S ANYMORE.. SAFETY FIRST!!!!! ANY ADVICE?? FEEDBACK?
 

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yangs4ever4g63 said:
MY EXHAUST SOMEHOW SOUNDS LOUDER MAKING ME SEEM NOW THAT IT HAS A EXHAUST LEAK OR IT COULD BE THAT MY FILTERS WORN OUT?
Get under there and check it out. Look around the flanges for black exhaust marks. Turn it on and feel with your hand for any puffs of exhaust. Just be careful, support the car right and don't get burned.
What "filters" are you refering to?

yangs4ever4g63 said:
I ALSO NEED TO GET MY CAR SERVICES AS IN LUBRICATING EVERYTHING AND REFILLING FLUIDS.
I use regular BG Syncroshift (not the synthetic) in the tranny, Red Line Heavyweight Shock Proof Gear Lube in the trasfercase, and Red Line 75W/90 Gear Oil in the rear diff. Pick up an oil filter from the dealer and some Mobil 1 and have fun couple of hours. Drain and refill the radiator too if you want.


yangs4ever4g63 said:
MY INTERCOOLER WATER SPRAYER HAS A LEAK BECAUSE EVERYTIME I TRY TO FILL IT UP, IT JUST LEAKS BACK TO THE FLOOR. A FEW BOLTS THAT HOLD THE PLASTIC PARTS THAT THE INTERCOOLER IS STANDING ON IS MISSING AND LOOSE.
The intercooler sprayer resivoir has a dump tube and it will leak when over filled. Get some more of those plastic push screws when you pick up your oil filter. They're cheap.

yangs4ever4g63 said:
ENGINE NOISES ARE BECOMING NOTICEABLE NOW, HEARING WHIINES AND NOISES I HAVN'T HEARD BEFORE WHEN I FIRST RECEIVED THE CAR.
Welcome to Mitsubishi's turbo cars. They make a lot of noise and just make sure it's not the transfercase whining.

yangs4ever4g63 said:
MY CD PLAYER DOESN'T READ OR PLAY CD'S ANYMORE..
I don't have a radio so I can't help you here, but you can always take it out and put in gauges. :thumb:


PS
Please don't type in all caps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
a few conflicts 2 add..

Hey whatsup fellow brothers; As I mentioned earlier, I have a jdm mr blow off valve i purchased for about $130.00. My car stalls when i'm closing in on a stop usually when the car has been in some kind of pressure. I get tired of it when it dies right when I stop and then would have to start the engine agains. Sometimes it wouldn't start right away making it sound like the starter is bad. I haven't messed with the blow off valve ever since I installed it like a few months ago. I need to resolve this issue so it wouldn't be dangerous for me, my car or any other driver that could possibly drive my car without knowing the disadvantage. It could be on backwards? Or faulty?? I need a troubleshooter to really tell me whats going on. I can try and put the stock one back on but i'd prefer something more advanced.

Also, What would be the best option if I wanted 2 boost gauge? any suggestions? Should I ask the dealerships to install one that could be optional? Data and info is important I've heard. It'll help me monitor my performance everyday.

Does anyone know if I can just purchase one rotor for my rear rightside? The rotor has been eaten up a bit metal to metal. So far, I've got Hawk HPS brake pads on and I think it won't last too long.

What is the best air filter I should replace with my stock one? I would've gotten the K&N panel, but there is also a flat panel? Which one?

Are all the wheels the same size on all four tires of the evo? I keep thinking two of them are bigger then the other two?

Where can I professionally paint my rims at? Currently my rims are black.

My turbotimers set for 30 seconds default. When its done, the car unlocks. Is there a way I can set it so the car can lock? That way i wouldn't have to wait and THEN lock the car.

Can I take off my stock exhaust system but leave the *DP* on? Would it have any disadvantages if I left it on for awhile?
 

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You're scaring me with all these questions, man. You should have MUCH MORE basic knowledge before even ATTEMPTING to purchase a car like an Evo, imo.

1) Uhm, dude, if it's a safety concern, why haven't you ALREADY put the stock BOV back on? That's troubleshooting 101 - eliminate the variable and see what happens. If the same thing happens with the stock BOV, you likely have a problem in the vaccuum system or with your tune. If the problem goes away, you know it's the JDM MR DV. The JDM MR DV does NOT cause those symptoms on a normal Evo, though, so there's more troubleshooting to be done even after the first simple test. Don't just go buy another BOV randomly - find the problem.

2) 2 boost gauges? What???

3) You should be able to, but those rear rotors are cheap - I'd get 2 new ones, replace both, and re-bed your brake pads.

4) Um, K&N panel is a flat panel - that's what "panel" means. Those are the same thing. Maybe you mean K&N cone filter or K&N Typhoon? Just do the drop-in (flat panel).

5) YES, ALL THE SAME SIZE = 17x8, and make sure you keep it that way. (scary)

6) Dunno.

7) Don't think so, but you could remove and sell the turbo timer, since it's not needed, then you would no longer have that problem.

8) Yes, you can, but only at the track - you can't drive around like that.
 
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