o2 housing easy mod?
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The only way I know how is to remove the turbine housing/O2 housing. The CHRA and compressor housing stay put;
With the motor warm/operating temp., raise the car and remove the bottom splash gaurd. Get an O2 sensor socket and get the O2 sensor out before it gets too cold.
Remove the tie bars and drop the downpipe.
Let things cool down a bit more and remove both upper and lower heat shields.
Spray the two front manifold to turbo nuts with PB Blaster. Get under the car and spray the two manifold to turbo bolts from the bottom at the turbine housing. Get a breaker bar and crack'em loose.
Spray the manifold nuts with PB Blaster and with the right extensions crack loose the manifold.
With a 17mm socket remove the turbo's oil feed banjo bolt at the head and don't lose the washer (this will give you more slack for pushing and tugging).
Fully remove the manifold to turbo hardware and all the nuts to the manifold.
With the little tugging and pushing I mentioned before remove the manifold.
Remove the V-band clamp on the turbo (10mm).
With a small hammer, very carefully tap loose the turbine housing/O2 housing. Be very careful not to damage the turbine blades as you pull it up and out.
Spray PB Blaster in the treads of the O2 housing to turbine housing bolts (and 2 nuts). Clamp it down, crack it loose, and seperate the O2 housing from the turbine housing.
Put it back together in the reverse. Torque specs can be found here;
http://www.race-works.com/EVO_e_FSM/data/JT41E/2003/M2311503/HTML/M1510089004801.htm
When installing the exhaust manifold (from my '04 manual);
1. Hand tighten all the exhaust manifold mounting nuts.
2. Tighten the M8 nuts (12mm) to 21 ± 2 ft-lb in the indicated sequence.
3. Tighten the M10 nuts (14mm) to 36 ± 3 ft-lb in the indicated sequence.
4. Tighten the M8 nuts again to 21 ± 2 ft-lb in the indicated sequence.
5. Finally tighten the M10 nuts and the M8 nuts to the specified
torque, both in the indicated sequence.
Tightening torque:
24 ± 4 ft-lb M8
41 ± 6 ft-lb M10
PS
I really wish I had taken pictures of this when I did it last month.
With the motor warm/operating temp., raise the car and remove the bottom splash gaurd. Get an O2 sensor socket and get the O2 sensor out before it gets too cold.
Remove the tie bars and drop the downpipe.
Let things cool down a bit more and remove both upper and lower heat shields.
Spray the two front manifold to turbo nuts with PB Blaster. Get under the car and spray the two manifold to turbo bolts from the bottom at the turbine housing. Get a breaker bar and crack'em loose.
Spray the manifold nuts with PB Blaster and with the right extensions crack loose the manifold.
With a 17mm socket remove the turbo's oil feed banjo bolt at the head and don't lose the washer (this will give you more slack for pushing and tugging).
Fully remove the manifold to turbo hardware and all the nuts to the manifold.
With the little tugging and pushing I mentioned before remove the manifold.
Remove the V-band clamp on the turbo (10mm).
With a small hammer, very carefully tap loose the turbine housing/O2 housing. Be very careful not to damage the turbine blades as you pull it up and out.
Spray PB Blaster in the treads of the O2 housing to turbine housing bolts (and 2 nuts). Clamp it down, crack it loose, and seperate the O2 housing from the turbine housing.
Put it back together in the reverse. Torque specs can be found here;
http://www.race-works.com/EVO_e_FSM/data/JT41E/2003/M2311503/HTML/M1510089004801.htm
When installing the exhaust manifold (from my '04 manual);
1. Hand tighten all the exhaust manifold mounting nuts.
2. Tighten the M8 nuts (12mm) to 21 ± 2 ft-lb in the indicated sequence.
3. Tighten the M10 nuts (14mm) to 36 ± 3 ft-lb in the indicated sequence.
4. Tighten the M8 nuts again to 21 ± 2 ft-lb in the indicated sequence.
5. Finally tighten the M10 nuts and the M8 nuts to the specified
torque, both in the indicated sequence.
Tightening torque:
24 ± 4 ft-lb M8
41 ± 6 ft-lb M10
PS
I really wish I had taken pictures of this when I did it last month.
turbolarry said:The only way I know how is to remove the turbine housing/O2 housing. The CHRA and compressor housing stay put;
With the motor warm/operating temp., raise the car and remove the bottom splash gaurd. Get an O2 sensor socket and get the O2 sensor out before it gets too cold.
Remove the tie bars and drop the downpipe.
Let things cool down a bit more and remove both upper and lower heat shields.
Spray the two front manifold to turbo nuts with PB Blaster. Get under the car and spray the two manifold to turbo bolts from the bottom at the turbine housing. Get a breaker bar and crack'em loose.
Spray the manifold nuts with PB Blaster and with the right extensions crack loose the manifold.
With a 17mm socket remove the turbo's oil feed banjo bolt at the head and don't lose the washer (this will give you more slack for pushing and tugging).
Fully remove the manifold to turbo hardware and all the nuts to the manifold.
With the little tugging and pushing I mentioned before remove the manifold.
Remove the V-band clamp on the turbo (10mm).
With a small hammer, very carefully tap loose the turbine housing/O2 housing. Be very careful not to damage the turbine blades as you pull it up and out.
Spray PB Blaster in the treads of the O2 housing to turbine housing bolts (and 2 nuts). Clamp it down, crack it loose, and seperate the O2 housing from the turbine housing.
Put it back together in the reverse. Torque specs can be found here;
http://www.race-works.com/EVO_e_FSM/data/JT41E/2003/M2311503/HTML/M1510089004801.htm
When installing the exhaust manifold (from my '04 manual);
1. Hand tighten all the exhaust manifold mounting nuts.
2. Tighten the M8 nuts (12mm) to 21 ± 2 ft-lb in the indicated sequence.
3. Tighten the M10 nuts (14mm) to 36 ± 3 ft-lb in the indicated sequence.
4. Tighten the M8 nuts again to 21 ± 2 ft-lb in the indicated sequence.
5. Finally tighten the M10 nuts and the M8 nuts to the specified
torque, both in the indicated sequence.
Tightening torque:
24 ± 4 ft-lb M8
41 ± 6 ft-lb M10
PS
I really wish I had taken pictures of this when I did it last month.
Thanks Bro for the info.
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3 Posts
I took my o2 housing off without taking the turbo off. It wasent that bad, the two lower bolts took some thought but it came off. hd to pull the radiator though.
Dont do the install with the motor warm. The heat expansion makes the bolts, including the o2 sensor, harder to take off. Just wait till the cars cool, spray everything liberally with pb blaster and let soak for a while, come back out and respray it and get to work. Do remove the radiator, for peace of mind, its much closer than on the dsm. Other than that simple hand tools will get it out. Its alot like removing one off a 2g but with less room to work.
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4 Posts
You don't need to remove the radiator, but it is a good idea to do it. I bent the fins up on my radiator when I did mine.
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