Ok, a couple of weeks ago I had my safc2 installed with the buschur settings and everything was good and my knock sensor on the safc was at 0 all the time. Here it is two weeks later and about 15 degrees later and now after driving my car normal for about 20-25 mins, my knock sensor display says like 4 at idle and has spiked up to 18 at about 25% throttle. The only thing that I can think of would be the weather, but I wouldn't think that it would make that much of a difference. I haven't done anything to the car since. I talked to buschur and they said that it should be fine. I'm not questioning their intelligence or experience, but does anyone else agree or disagree. Any input would be appreciated.
SAFC knock snsr?
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A couple of things:Excalibur said:
1) The knock feature on the SAFC should not be used nor relied upon. It is not accurate.
2) It is never advisable to purchase an SAFC or any piggyback then use someone else's pre-set settings. Dave has been doing this for a while, and it does work, but there's simply no way to get an optimum tune for your car, your mods, your octane, your elevation, your climate, and your driving style with base settings like that. When relying on an SAFC as your primary tuning device, you should have a wideband O2 and a pocketlogger so that you can ensure your AFRs are optimum and that your timing advanced knock-free.
Thanks for the info, I just don't know how to do all of the stuff like you're talking about. It's the first time that I've gotten this serious about doing stuff to a car. I guess I just need to find someone that could show me everything that I need to know. I guess it's kinda hard to learn everything on just the computer alone. I'm afraid that I'll mess something up or something. 
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Yes, I understand, because it is a daunting task at first when you have no examples to use and no one to help, but that's what Evotuners is for. I learned how to properly tune my SAFC from this site with the help of the S-AFC/S-AFCII tuning guide writeup and Turbolarry's advice.Excalibur said:Thanks for the info, I just don't know how to do all of the stuff like you're talking about. It's the first time that I've gotten this serious about doing stuff to a car. I guess I just need to find someone that could show me everything that I need to know. I guess it's kinda hard to learn everything on just the computer alone. I'm afraid that I'll mess something up or something.
Read that writeup, but ignore the part about injectors for now, because you don't have those. I still recommend getting at least a base Dynoflash first, then use the SAFC for fine-tuning.
Well, when I bought the car, the guy said that it had already been dynoflashed for the br tbe and intake. But I'm still gonna have to get the logger, read the article, and get a wideband o2. I think once I get the things that I need, then I'll try. Thanks for your help:thumb:
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Ok, then your car should be in great shape. I would suggest setting the SAFC to 0 across the board on both Hi and Low throttle until you get the logger and wideband. Frankly, you won't need to touch your SAFC unless you plan on using race gas at the track, because you won't need to make hardly any changes for pump gas. The other use will be if/when you add mods. If you don't want to get a full custom reflash and just want to try your luck with the SAFC, you will have that option.Excalibur said:
I'm having a hard time finding a pocketlogger. Anyone have any advice on this with a proven setup. Money's not too much of an issue, I'd rather do it right the first time. I've been reading around and I'm still not sure. I was thinking about the palm IIIc. That and the cable is all that I will need except for the wideband o2, is that right?
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Haha, I don't believe it when you say you're having trouble finding a pocketlogger!Excalibur said:
This is the easiest bit of help I can give you:www.pocketlogger.com - Really, it's that easy. Turbolarry and I put ours together by purchasing a basic Palm M100 w/hotsync cable used (Amazon or Ebay), a T16-003 interface at multiplexengineering.com, and then free software at the TunerStein website (Palm'N'Stein). We save $30-40, but that's probably not worth it over getting the whole package with a CD from the above site.
I'm in the process of getting all of that stuff, but before I do, how far is it going to get me in the upgrading process? I'm wanting to do alot. I was wanting a streetable car for daily use, but the more that I do, the more I want to do. I was planning to do all of the buschur stages and then ported intake, exhaust manifolds, and probably even the 20G turbo, i'm not sure. So, how far would the safc2 take me? How big of injectors would I probably need for all that stuff and how big of injectors could I handle with the safc? I saw that the scc evo mr was running the 660cc's w/ the safc, but it's my understanding that I would probably be forced to run the 760s correct? I just get so much hearsay and stuff where I'm located and would like the truth. If you guys could hook me up w/ some guidance, that would be great. :dsm:
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Well, if you're going to continue modding and going bigger, then you will want to get rid of the SAFC, because it will be very limiting. You can't really go beyond 720cc injectors with an SAFC before it starts requiring to much correction to keep everything within spec. The SAFC should only be used for very light mods while on the stock turbo. No matter what, it will always be the least useful tuning device, so remember that.Excalibur said:
If you go to a 20g, you will need injectors, and I would not recommend relying on an SAFC to tune it. It would make no sense to spend all that money on a new turbo and other big mods, then go cheap with your tuning. Tuning is the MOST important part of making power, so you should consider going with a more sophisticated device. Even with the 20g, you can rely on a nice custom flash, but anything beyond that, and I'd recommend a nice piggyback or standalone ECU, which is the ultimate tuning device.
Btw, I don't think you want to mess with your intake manifold anytime soon. Be sure to seek advice here on the proper mods to purchase before you actually purchase them. I will always be here to help as long as I see your question, and don't hesitate to PM me if you need to...
I think I'll just save up for the aem stdalone. The only problem is that I don't know anyone that can tune the car for me once I get all of that on. Do you think that I should get the standalone, injectors, fuel pump, cams/gears, and bigger intercooler all at once and have buschur or someone tune it? I don't even know anyone that has awd dyno around VA. Thanks for the advice on the intake manifold though.
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If you got all of those parts you just listed and had Buschur tune it on his dyno, you'd be an extremely happy customer. I can GUARANTEE that. That would be a great idea, but you really don't know who has an AWD dyno in VA? I guess you haven't heard of the DcEvoClub, heh, because we do dyno days all the time. We have like 5 AWD dynos to choose from, so we go wherever we can get the best deal. Here are some I have used:Excalibur said:
- MachV in Sterling, VA (Dynojet)
- Curry's in Sterling, VA (Mustang)
- Altered Atmosphere in Gaithersburg, MD (Dynojet)
- Extreme Motorsports in Odenton, MD (Dynojet)
- ProImports in Fredericksburg, VA (Dynojet)
There are others, but I wouldn't want to rely on any local tuners to do your AEM EMS. They all pretty much use the same guy, and his name is Brad Brooks. He's a DSM guru, and knows how to tune Evos with AEM EMS, but his services are spread thing, so I'd make the trip to Buschur and get it all done at once and tuned on their Mustang Dyno.
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